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Update! Block bored (89mm) & decked Crank fully balanced and polished Piston assembly Forged H beam rods with ARP hardware Crank end play check (0.11mm) Conrod bearing clearance check (plasti gage) - around 0,050mm. Conrod big eye side play is 0.17mm (not shown, measured using feeler blades). Main bearing clearance 0,050mm New oil bypass valve (the spring is in fact significantly stiffer then the old one - $5 well invested) In order to clear the ARP bolts, the block required sligth notching (picture before). On cyl 5 the bolts even touched the wall! Finally, there's around 1mm clearance - that should work. Bottom end almost ready!

Just a few quick pics. Got the hood and some decals on.

Problem has been solved. First, I thank you all for your help. You group of guys are what keep me wrenching on a car that's 2 years younger than myself. Secondly, I'm an idiot. I'm not generally seen as an idiot, I hope, but here's what happened: When I had the radiator out and was flushing the inside with Muratic acid/water, I pushed large corks into the inlet and outlet so I could really shake/rattle, and roll that stuff through the tubes inside. (you already know where this is going) After that, I decided to paint it before sticking it back in. Apparently, I didn't see the cork in the bottom outlet since it had a fresh coat of paint on it. How's that for an oversight? No harm done, thankfully. Oh, and my Temp gauge settled under the 1/2 mark afterward.

https://youtu.be/0ZU-0K8NP6A

My 78 is getting too hot. I've done a few things to it since it was on the road, so keep in mind that I'm unable to drive it right now, only idle it when backed out of my basement garage. Here's what's been done to it since I drove it a few years ago that relate to the cooling system: -Deleted the coolant bypass line just to tidy up the engine bay. I plugged the thermostat housing and plugged the small coolant line that comes off the heater hose hard line by the #1 spark plug. -Tested the 180* thermostat in boiling water and drilled out the tiny bypass hole in the thermostat just a wee bit after reading about others who had bypassed the coolant line attached to the manifold. -Pulled the radiator out, flushed the not-so-cruddy mixture out of it, then poured in a gallon of water with a measured bit of muratic acid and shook/rotated/flipped/worked the mixture throughout the radiator to hopefully clean the passages. After a few minutes, I emptied, rinsed like mad and stuck it back in the car and filled with coolant/water mix. It's as full as it can get without lifting the front of the car and topping the radiator off. No air pockets, as far as I can tell. I ran the heater a few times to circulate it through the heater core and squeezed the hoses while topping it off. New Sankei radiator cap. -Replaced the aged water pump with a new Asin water pump with the cast propeller, and not the thin blade propeller found in some cheaper aftermarket units. Now, all of that above was done before I realized any overheating problems. I figured most of this was good practice on an old car and it makes me a little less nervous about a long trip with the wife with me if certain parts are replaced. I don't want to swap a water pump in a parking lot somewhere. This car always seems to take quite a while to warm up. (been that way since I bought it 4 years ago from original owner who did not tinker with it at all) Anyway, as it idles and (very) slowly reaches operating temp, the gauge continues to rise. Before I parked it in the basement a few years ago, it would barely get past the middle on the temp gauge in hot weather. Now, idling, it gets to 3/4+ before I shut it off, open the hood and let it cool down. Something I've done has affected it. Today when I shut it off at the 3/4 point, there was a bubbling sound coming from the thermostat housing and the coolant overflow was at the lower level line. I don't think I've ever seen the coolant overflow bottle with any coolant in it since I've had it. I thought I read enough from others who deleted those coolant bypass lines with no problems, but maybe that's causing this to happen. Or, did I unclog something in the radiator with the acid /water flush?

I looped growling dogs mp3s and blasted it through my home stereo this year. I had to talk a few trick or treaters into coming to my front porch, their parents laughing.

I have a used one Gary, sent you a pm.

@moelk I thought that looked similar to a recent post, actually thought I was going crazy.

You're welcome. In the future you can look up parts number yourself and support this website at the same time. http://www.classiczcars.com/store/product/27-zcar-microfiche-cd-download/ http://www.classiczcars.com/store/product/11-zcar-microfiche-cd-physical-disc/ It's worth the money.

That's a joke, right? I'm still soaking the two you included in the pkg., the nuts are well frozen to the threads but I'm hoping to get them free to have as spares. Canadian salt, eh? At least the four originals with this grill all came loose OK and will get well protected as part of the refurb. BTW - the vertical bars cleaned up very well with the sand blaster.

I'll measure and post later today.

My other hobby is Halloween. I set up at a family member's house since I don't have a yard. And their neighborhood is like the biggest Halloween draw in the city. Most of the stuff you see was "custom" made by me, or assembled from bits and pieces. At least one of those monsters was made using an old Christmas tree stand lol. Some others used old fan stands. I set all of this up starting at 6 am Oct 31. We had over 650 Trick or Treaters. It was cold, 25 F and light snow. Then I put it all away after, passed out with extreme soreness at about 10 pm. I'm not 18 anymore hahaha. My DD Tahoe also broke the sun shell at noon (transmission, lost R, 2, and 4), after picking up some dry ice and balloons. Not sure I'm going to fix it, time for a new daily... that's what's really scary! Sorry I didn't get any night/lighting pics, I was too busy scaring kids as Michael Myers. But I had lots of blue LED floods, amber LED candles, and lots of red and fire n ice light for the gates of hell. And two fog machines with chillers.

I prefer to make the valve adjustment while the engine is cold. It far easier to work cold on and I am not racing against time as the engine cools. Note the clearances are smaller when cold. Use two wrenches so you can hold the adjusting nut while turning the lock nut. There is some interaction and it takes patience and a few tries to get each setting correct.

The locating dot/divot looks kinda like a pin, but it's just a shallow depression in one side of the gear body. Nothing on the other side.

prelim test with ZH provided 3rd/bearing/ring are looking promising. I did a quick test with the adapter plate in the vice, the knock I heard with the stethoscope was gone. I still have to install the counter shaft bearing and then re install in the housings but maybe this will do it. I sure hope, the only other thing that was suspect was a bent output shaft. I assumed holding it steady will spinning the gears was a valid test, but I may be wrong about that. If this last attempt fails the plan will be to tear down completely and start with a exam of the output shaft using some V blocks and a dial indicator. Thanks again to ZH!!

It was my turn to take a drive to enjoy the leaves. I'm working on getting this road included on one of the drives for ZCON 2018.

I was watching a video gangs in Detroit in the 80s. The guy says he would bring cocaine and hookers to red fox in downtown Detroit pontchatrain hotel for days on end.

Happy Halloween!!!

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey guys I am currently working out some issues with my 75 280Z. The EFI has been removed and replaced with carbs. Lately I have been having some random starting issues. It doesn't happen all the time but once in awhile it will crank but not turn over. I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump cutting off during starting/cranking. Currently the fuel pump is wired directly to a 12v ignition wire from behind the ignition switch. I hooked up a volt meter to this ignition wire and usually 9 times out of ten, it only drops to 10-11 volts during cranking...but every once in awhile it drops to 0. When this happens I can look at my fuel gauge under the hood and it drops to 0-1 psi, which causes the vehicle to not start and just keep cranking. What i've done so far: tested for other 12v ignition sources - same result replaced ignition switch - same result replaced voltage regulator - same result oh, and all the wiring has been removed, cleaned, terminals replaced if needed, etc... Anybody have any suggestions?

Email sent, thanks a lot. My # is 203-980-1391 if we could talk I can call you at your convenience.

Yes, it does. Is there a problem? Not really clear why there's a question, no offense. Edit - looks like there's a fuse...