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Everything posted by german240

  1. Engine mounts: My cheap Rockauto mounts failed shortly after install. The one on the passenger side split in half. So I would recommend getting better/OEM ones. Install is fairly easy with the engine in car (No engine hoist needed): 1. Support oil pan with a car jack (only a bit, do not lift the engine) 2. Remove bolts on engine side and the ones which go through the engine mount 3. Remove engine mount bracket (slides out easily towards the front) 4. Remove engine mount Don't trust all those posts saying that it is a PITA or it is not possible without engine removal. It took me 15 mins.
  2. Update on U-Joint install: Yes it was easy to change them. However, 500 miles later, I can feel play at the rear half shafts (so the U-joints are starting to fail). I guess everyone was right then, the OEM joints were much tougher than today's aftermarket joints. I got a MOOG u-joint. Finally, I opted for a CV conversion so I will never have to deal with this again.
  3. Hey, during the last couple of years restoring my 240Zs I made many mistakes and learnt a lot. I am going to add all these little things to this topic. Especially topics which are unclear to many of us (or sometimes there is wrong info around). There is no specific order. Please feel free to add your notes! I will add some keywords for all the guys who find this topic via Google.. 280ZX dizzy: The stock late 1971 240z tach WILL work although it is current sensing S12/S13 gearbox: A series I drive shaft is around 35mm shorter than a series II driveshaft. You will be able to install the early one with the SR/KA gearbox, however the gearbox tail shaft seal will fail eventually. This is due to the seal running at the very end of the shaft (close to the U-joint) where it already starts to get thicker (radius). A series I shaft has to be shortend by aprox 10 mm. Series II by 50 mm (not talking about series I cars). The transmission mount has to move 20mm towards the rear. Depening on the type of your mount, you can get away with modifying your existing one. 3.1L stroker build: The cheap Maxspeedingrods worked fine for me (5000 Mls so far). They were right within specifications (I did measure them before install). You have to remove some material on the driver side of the block where the main oil gallery is, otherwise the rods will hit the crankcase. U-Joint install: It is not difficult at all, all you need is a hammer, some sockets and a bench vise. Just replace them so you don't have to work on them later in the car. EDIT: Don't replace if not necessary - my MOOG joints failed quickly after install. Powdercoating suspension parts: Do not powder coat flanges (stub axles, wheel hub, diff input). The bolts will keep going loose no matter how tight they are. This is due to the paint layer settling Stagg shocks / dampers in general: Make sure that there is no lateral play of the damper in the strut tube. In other words, the top gland nut must press down the damper. You can add a washer below the damper inside the tube. BTW the Stagg shocks/Vogtland springs combo works great for spirited driving. Rear end clunk/noise: I've been reading all the topics on the web. In my case, the only issue I've never come across before was my issue: I had to tighten the big forward facing bolts which go inside the rear transverse link. Unstable braking / steering pulling to one side: RH side nut at the rear of the T/C rod bushing was not tightened enough Sandblasting fuel tank: Be aware that if you decide to blast the inside of the fuel tank, there will be a lot of blasting media inside afterwards. No matter what you do. I still get quite a lot of blasting media inside my fuel filters (I think I replaced them 4-5 times already). I would not do it again but use some chemical rust remover for the inside of the tank. Rear lights not working / weird rear light issues / turn signal issues: There are two ground points at the rear end, make sure both are fully connected. One below the licence plate light, one behind the rear valence (hard to reach, behind the fuel tank). If one of these is gone, you get all sort of issues. Fuel gauge inaccurate / always low : Make sure that both the wiring harness connectors inside the trunk (behind trunk trim panel) as well as the connectors to the fuel level sensor are in good condition. A high resistance will lead to low readings Motor mounts: Get quality ones. My cheap ones (rockauto) failed quickly (passenger side torn apart) Motor main cap side seals: Get Nissan OEM ones (cheap and still available). They have a steel strip molded in as opposed to a seperate piece of metal (like Felpro). The Felpro leaked after 2000 miles. Use a non hardening sealing compound (just cover them completely before inserting). Oil pan removing without lifting the engine: It is not difficult at all. All you need is Cyl 1 at TDC. There is little room but it works. Brake pads: If you want a better performing braking system, get better front pads first. Pagid, Ferodo, Project µ, Porterfield. Just to name a few. I opted for Pagid pads and it completely transformed my brake. Just by the pad change I went from an OK brake to a great performing brake (in fact I did lock the wheels a few times as I was used to my old brake pads (MSA Track pads)). ZG flares: If you are going to run 15" wheels, you dont have to cut a lot at the front fenders. Only about 1-1,5 cm at the top. If you cut more the flares will sit too hight. 225/50 R15 -13 wheels fit perfectly for the ZG type flares. Don't get the universal fit flares but some high quality ZG replicas. They follow the body lines and need no felting or body filler to fit. Heater valve: Just get a new one. It will fail/leak eventually even it it looks like it works. It is no effort to replace while the heater box is out of the car. Brake lines: They are easy to made if you buy Cunifer brake lines. Even with a cheap ebay tool, great results can be achieved.
  4. I installed PAGID RSH 29E front brake pads and could't believe what a difference it made. Compared to the MSA "track" brake pads it feels like a complete new braking system. So far I haven't experienced any brake fade issues and the overall stopping efficiency is very high.
  5. Hey guys, as my 240z is still equipped with the almost 50 yrs old original pump I think I should get a new one as good measure. Is there anyone running the GMB pump? It looks almost similar. On Amazon there are mixed opinions (works fine, broke down after a few miles). BR https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8893308&cc=1209169&jsn=877&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdSyqlmez6jy1gNJMlusoX3OR6oZHmd95p79CSOLvI%2BbdPEYS4HKmSAUJVlLbFA1LmAtT9rn8NZZYDAOnj5dlSGEjDqczDvxgV63sQH%2B7yOvIkNHOKxfOQ6yYpL%2F96Z3Hp2svYt313w2LJeTHlbnib7jxtzBFvj2Mdh3Ay4Ic8SyKECDR10uR%2F2bQuscKhCtI3Y1xyg8yFZvg435Boxo5Pcx6sDwgrEGj0aVldLX1Q2RQzW7qNjLRup1MQjtH0XSeF4oZD%2FjoxhJ6VMPYjGoNY27SJVrflX7rRcFhrhi6CpMMBF4QUxKrJxSe%2BSJ0Som0ZJzxSqJUDtXV3
  6. Absolutely. I got the MSA Type 1 Style air dam and even at high speeds (did 140mph / 240km/h GPS speed) I have a very stable feeling car. German autobahn ? Both my diff strap as well as the lower diff mount need to be replaced. So I don't think the car gets shaky due to worn diff mounts.
  7. @Captain Obvious Did you measure the belt lenght before install? I would like to prepare one, too (before I remove the old one). Great ideas!
  8. What kind of shifter boot is this? Mine is still missing and the original one didn't fit the 71C shifter. Awesome work!
  9. Regarding core plug removal: It is much easier to tap the plugs inwards. Just use a flat screwdriver and tap in one side (red line), the plug will tilt and can be pulled out easily afterwards!
  10. Where did you buy this awesome transmission crossmember? BTW I used a Series 1 driveshaft which is slightly shorter. It fit without shortening (tight fit, around 5mm travel left).
  11. @2377kNthis mount will not fit for a 240Z, right? I can't remember that there is the front part of the seat rail bent down like in your picture..?
  12. Hey guys, I tried three times to lock the side shaft bolts (wheel side) in place, using loctite and new spring washers. After a couple of hundred miles, they loosen up again. Did someone have the same issue in the past and how did you fix this? Is there a certain orientation of the side shaft flange neccessary? Space is tight, but I managed to fasten the nuts with a long extension ultimately. Maybe they hold better now. BR
  13. @240260280 I already did this in post #19 ?
  14. Oil viscosity doesn't affect wot performance at all as it only determines the mixture during the first 1-3s of acceleration. Thin oil =faster rising piston = less vacuum to draw fuel = leaner Thick oil = richer
  15. I think it is incredible easy to get the SUs "working". However, fine tuning is difficult! What I did so far: 1. Data logging with SM needles (AFR/Rpm with Zeitronix ZT2) -> too lean from 3000 rpm on, mixture nut had to be dropped by 4.5 turns as a base setting. I used the SM needle as starting point and selected the RH needles 2. Checking AFRs during hard acceleration -> changed to ATF damper oil, now my AFR drops perfectly to around 12,5 3. Setting fuel bowl level with clear hose and banjo bolt: The only way to do it right. I tried it according to the FSM before, and the fuel levels were way off. I also noticed, that my rear carb (short ears) had a long needle valve installed. Therefore, I ran out of adjustment and couldn't raise the fuel level high enough. So far, both carbs are at the same level but 2mm too low. I'm not sure how this affects overall performance (much discussed topic). 4. To do: Install some sort of LVDT sensor / potentiometer in order to record the actual piston position. I want to know where the piston sits at cruise speeds as the needle seems to be too rich just in this area (AFR 13,5-14)
  16. I spent quite some time tuning my 3.1L stroker with SUs and found RH needles to work best (they are leaner than the SB ones). Still, cruise AFR is a little too rich. Ian Hamiltons needle tool is great for doing needle research! The tool can be found here: http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm
  17. This is super cool. Can you still close the hood? I would like to drive it like this and mount a camera inside. Then I could see which needle stations are being used under certain load conditions!
  18. Hey guys, Is there any data out there (like dyno numbers) how well the stock SU air filter box is working compared to 2 round K&N filters? I installed a K&N filter mat (for the stock air box) and did not buy round filters so far. Top end engine performance is not great, it feels like from 5000 rpm on no further power is gained. A/F ratio is spot on, though (wideband installed). Of course this could also be due to the relatively small SUs on a 3.1L stroker.. I just love the simplicity of SUs. And much more budget friendly of course :) BR
  19. I'm running BP8ES spark plugs (3.1L stroker) with no issues. With stock plugs (BP5ES) I had issues with dieseling/run-on.
  20. I don't really know why, but the issue seems to be solved. Most likely the loose tension rod nut was the culprit! Thank you for all your help! ?
  21. I forgot to mention this: You are right, the right side bolt which bolts through the crossmember was pretty loose. After fastening it got better, but still not perfect.
  22. Calipers, hoses, brake MC, hard lines - all new, and they worked perfectly until last week. But will check it anyways ?
  23. Hey guys, my 240z pulls to the right if I brake really hard. The car is bolt and nut restored, means all brake system components (except brake booster) are brand new. I didn't notice this issue during the first 1000 miles, so I suspect something changed/failed recently. What I checked: Tire pressure, even wear Tension rod nuts (torqued them a little tighter) Rear left drum (no issue there) front left caliper and pads (even pad wear) The car drives straight as it should and the problem is really only noticeable with high brake pressures. Could it be an alignment issue? Or did I miss any other thing to check? Any help is highly appreciated ?
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