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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/25/2017 in all areas

  1. After I had tried all the suggestions, the "final solution" was to use a crow bar and a block of wood on the driver side where the PCV tube comes out of the block. There is a lip of the head that hangs over a little over that ledge on the engine block. I put the block of wood underneath the lip of the head and used the Ledge on the engine block for leverage. Do not lever off the tube to do this, just the part of the eng. block sticking out. Use slow steady pressure while pushing down on the crowbar. When it lifted a little, I stuck some plastic wedges used for tile from Home Depot to hold it .Maybe it was a combination of everything else but that is when actual separation happened.
  2. 1 point
    I am sure this is not new to the group but since I made a video I figured would post a thread (video attached later). I have been having start issues since I got the car nearly 2 years ago. I thought I had check the starting circuits (spark and injector during startup) but since it was intermittent I prob just never caught the issue. I finally broke down and removed the switch for a more comprehensive test of the start circuit. Sure enough I have multiple dead spots on the switch when turned to "start". I did NOT test the new OE switch, prob should have but it was so easy to install I just could not wait. Needless to say it started instantly, no longer do I crank and crank then release and the engine would then start (only after releasing the key). I was losing the ign circuit while in the "start" position.
  3. I think he likely has that much (and more) money into it, but I think he's dreaming if he thinks he's going to get that much, mostly because of the aesthetic choices made. I just don't think there's a market for a highly modified Z like that for that price. Remember the lime green SR20 swapped 240z from several years ago? I think he originally listed it for $125k, and it sold for something like $75k. It was much more tasteful than this car. However, that was before prices shot up, so it might sell for more than $75k these days.
  4. I just sent Dan a message with my contact info. Maybe we can help save the site. There's certainly no reason to lose a good Z site.
  5. Haha! Thanks guys. Site, you should see my fingers in the winter! In the winter, they spontaneously crack! And I don't think I could ever be a teacher. I doubt I would have the patience for the people who really didn't want to be there.
  6. i found on my tank, the tube that the fuel pump hooks to was about 95% plugged with rust. i would bet between that and your fuel line, thats your problem
  7. A few days old - but ole Tealie got a much needed bath Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. Harbor Freight also. If you get some constant lifting force from the rafters, or from below with a 2x4, then pound/tap on the broken bolt piece that will help break that bond. The broken piece will stretch a bit and each "tap" will compress it, causing it to move it out of the hole a fraction of an inch with each blow. Eventually a gap will open somewhere and you can start filling the gaps with wedges. .
  9. I agree with the cruddy tank. Try a few more tank fulls but I'm thinking it needs to be cleaned. Not as hard for a 280 as a 240. Lots of us have done it so just ask and you'll get plenty of info.
  10. If you keep polishing that thing you"ll go blind! At least that's what I heard
  11. I am lucky, I can walk away from that headache type work you're doing and jump in a tractor or on a mower. Drink a bunch of beer and get some good thinking done. Every now and again I'll get that "ah hah!" moment whilst I'm doing nothing.
  12. Went for a fantastic (flawless) hour and a half sunrise drive. Car is running great. Big change from yesterday when I mowed 15 acres. Fortunately we have an air conditioned cab but it's all glass except the top so it's of little use at 100 plus degrees. Just like everywhere, it's bad hot and humid down here.
  13. I replaced the fuel rail with braided lines, placing them closer to the carburetors and away from all of the heat of the engine. So far, I have not been able to replicate the heat soak problem I was having before. Maybe I finally slayed the dragon.
  14. Took the stripes off. Looks better now. Before After
  15. When is the last time you replaced the air filter? I've got the Nissan P/N if you want to try one, they're much better quality than chain parts stores.
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