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I am hoping my scan is legible enough. This is the factory manual... I can probably enlarge parts if I need to. We are trying to get the light's working on Cody's wagon. Most of the running lights seem to work and the turns supposedly work per Cody but I haven't checked behind him yet. The problem is the headlights. He said they worked once and then not again. I have done some testing with a meter and both sides of the high beam lamp have battery voltage, that doesn't seem correct. I would think one would be power in and one would be ground. How can I have voltage on both sides?

I haven't posted in awhile so I thought I would give an update. I have been focusing on getting the mechanics of the car worked out before finishing the front body panels and putting it all back together. I am just about ready to fire the motor. I completed the fuel system but haven't wet tested it yet. I have also completed the cooling system except my heater core is shot. I am waiting for a replacement and once I get that in I will be ready to put coolant in the car. I have started wiring the XDi2 ignition setup. I think that is just about ready to go. I have an ignition map to start with and the motor has been bench run. Once I get everything working I will integrate the new ignition, fuel pump and cooling fans into the existing wiring harness. I haven't quite figured that all out yet - one thing at a time... The biggest time killer (at least for me) seems to be the restoration of the pieces. Just as a example: want to put the doors back on? That means sandblasting and painting the hinges, blasting or chemically cleaning the door latches, plating them, polishing them and then installation. Then there's windows. I put the windows in and had to take the whole mess apart because I hadn't installed the door latch, which has to go in first. The I couldn't get the windows to line up - had the front sashes reversed - d'uh. Anyway, enough whining, enjoy the pics.

I used OEM and they fit perfectly. The price was outrageous, in dollars about 250 a pair ovrr here, but the quality is far superior. If I can still get OEM, I pay the extra.

Thanks Hardway, here are a few interior shots.

Zed Head, actually CZCC did win something. When I signed in at the show Saturday morning, it asked what club I participated in. Naturally I wrote CLASSIC Z CAR CLUB. Remember, RedBird has been shared by many members, giving their support, giving their time, giving their parts, giving their love. For this , I thank all of you for giving RedBird and I this opportunity to shine!

Look closely at the pedals. Those are not 25k mile wear, maybe 125k

Thank you Cliff! I truly appreciate your compliments. This was definitely a team effort as I was really disappointed after getting it back from powder coat and thinking I would have to strip it all off. As usual, other owners with much more experience showed me the way. The Z community is great and I am happy to be able to contribute to it.

Why, did something come up? Ha!

Pretty cool Jai. I feel like classiczcars.com won something. Looks great. I started to zoom in on that girl's belly to see what was written there but had to stop.

You should have got the #1 classic! Red Bird shines like a new nickle. Thank you for thinking of me but I'm not into the road map look. What is that, a chandelier under those ta tas?

Yes, this is normal for these transmissions. The engine will only start in Park or Neutral, but no lock on the shift lever. The lock in the gear shift box is simply a product of trail lawyers and the nanny state.

Moved the metal shelves to my parts shed......hung wall cabinets to give myself more floor space.

Today, I completed the return of my R-180 4:11 diffy and speedo cog. I tried a 3:54 for fewer highway rpms, but lost my great power band. I had to shift a lot more in the twisties, but the killers were the front seal leaked, and it whined at speed even with Red-Line gear lube. So out with the new and in with the old. Driveshaft nuts/lockwashers have to be the worst job for old fingers to do. I really need an articulated forefinger. Next project: remove and repair front fenders. Cheers, Mike

Repair and Tuning Document karburatorweber_ang.pdf