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The thing about electrical connectors is that we tend to assume that if the plastic fits, the metal parts are touching and electricity can flow. All I'm saying is make sure that electricity can actually pass through the injector coil. I have a bunch of alligator clips, and wire, and stripped solid core wire that I've crushed in to probes, so that I can be certain of things like this. How many times have we wiggled the plastic on a connector and seen it affect the actual electrical contacts? This is all just to know if the it's really bad. If he has a pile of spare injectors and one works, he could just throw it in and run it. I tend to take my broken stuff apart to know why it's broken. When I'm done it's usually more broken. Sometimes it ends up fixed though.

After 8 years of fits and starts restoring "Buttercup", a 7/70 build date 240Z (#7032) it has come down to the interior, which was completely stripped and the old tar mat removed. While "Murdermat", "Fatmat", and the like are what are commonly used as upgrade/replacement--- I wanted the original deal--- as close to the factory fitment as possible. After lots of net searching I finally found what I thought would be as near the original asphaltic mat as I was apt to find. I bought the mat from AutoAtlanta FOR PORSCHE: WU890100, WU8 901 00 - READY TO SHIP - (WURTH FLOOR PAN TAR SOUND DEADENING INSULATING KIT) , a purveyor of restoration parts for Porsche autos: I used a roll of rosin paper to trace the original floor mat outlines---- from the interior of another '70 240Z I had purchased as a parts car---- and cut out the patterns , traced it again and cut the new mat out with scissors. Here's how that looks: Next I proceeded to install the mat using a heat gun and a couple of hand tools to shape the mat to the sheet metal contours of the floor pans, transmission tunnel and rear hatch floor: The mat has an adhesive and a release paper and when heated can be formed easily to the contours of the metal. It took several hours to create the patterns and do the install. I deviated from installing the mat on bare metal by painting all of the interior first, but the mat will be painted the body color as was done originally with a complete re-spray of the interior . All in all I am satisfied with the product and offer this to assist to anyone wanting to do the same in the restoration of their Z. Paint should follow in the next few days and I will post up a few photos when that has been completed. Jim D. "Zup"

Good news, tried again and I got one of the spare injectors to spray on the car; The initially bad one would only drip fuel, no spray. So I swapped it with one of the spares, and it sprayed, so I buttoned it all up and ran it, and the injector now passes the "screwdriver stethoscope" test, clicks just like the others. I think the cleaning probably helped, possibly applying 9v may have applied enough magnetic force to un-stick the spare injector. (It was not working properly on the first try either). So I suppose, in summary, what I've learned is: -9 v won't necessarily fry an injector (but it could). I only touched the connection to make it pulse though, not a constant hook up. -the screwdriver stethoscope is a great method to verify if the injector is or is not working -both pins on the injector should have 12 volts (if good) -the injector should have a resistance of about 3 ohms (if good) -the ferrules on the injectors can be a pain to remove, to replace the hose -if you can get the injector to spray/operate off the car, it should theoretically work on the car, given that other items are in proper working condition (when I did the 9 volt, I wan't able to exert 36 psi of force, so I only got a stream out of the injectors. But that is enough to verify no clogging.) However, just because it operates off the car doesn't mean it will operate CORRECTLY on the car. ie) fuel spray pattern, etc... Also, my car seems to shake less through the chassis, so the bad cylinder may have been contributing to this issue (maybe not engine mounts) I will be monitoring this cylinder's plug, as well as checking the injector via the stethoscope test as I go, making sure it KEEPS working.... I do not seem to have the missing/surging issue at higher RPMs right now, likely due to getting this injector to fire as well as adjusting the TVS to only contact at idle and very close to WOT. I may need to adjust again. Both of the TVS that I have seem to initially touch the WOT contact way too early, and one had never been opened, which I found odd. I do hear a change when I unplug the TVS at idle, so it is operating (enriching the idle mixture). Thanks, hope this comes in handy for those facing similar issues. -

I think I was just in a hurry before and didn't have all of the lobes/cylinders at TDC, so as you might imagine some of the clearances were off. Now that they're all correct to 'cold-spec' (after sitting for a few days) it's nice and quiet like it ought to be. I just use a 14mm wrench, and 17mm wrench, along with the go/no-go method on the feeler gauges... and yeah, the locknut tends to move the adjustment out of spec -- I figured that out the hard way, but that wasn't why it was out of spec -- it was out of spec because I wasn't being fastidious about the rotation of the cam lobes. Anyway, I think all is well in the kingdom now. Thanks guys!

I was talking about 26th-Z's #15 post. I don't know that we'd learn much on our cars doing that.

My orange 240 has very little rust overall but due to a leaky valve at the heater core inlet and outlet it had seeped coolant for no telling how long and thanks to that jute my passenger floor board will need replacing someday. For the time being I've got a "NO FAT CHICKS" sticker on the passenger door. @jalexquijano here's the thread on the gray spray paint for the rear finisher you were asking about.

I agree with Dennis. If you don't want to drive it with an automatic, put in a 5 speed and save and label all the automatic parts. Easy to change it back that way.

The problem with the original jute padding is that it does hold moisture for years, spreads it over a large area. No easy way to remove and dry it after it gets wet. I'd look for something else. You don't want a sponge under the carpets. If you do use a foam product, be sure it's closed cell.

Cris, I don't agree with the appraisal but so what. I'm thinking that you have a purchase order document dated 1969 and that's why you are claiming the date? Or is it the 69 in the photograph you posted? What's written next to the 69, Alan? A "numbers matching" statement means that the numbers on the chassis and engine match an ID tag or some form of appropriate documentation. It doesn't look like you have the engine # on the ID tag however if it is still the original 2-liter it probably is "matching". If you really want some hard build date evidence, crawl up underneath the dash and find the part # tag on the wiring harness. It is going to be a white tag wrapped in the loom. It will have the part number and a date printed on it. See if you can find it and let us know what it says. You also may encounter a build date underneath the dash that looks like this one.

Z432 specialized S20 water pump came back from a shop, refreshment was done properly. Expensive!! Can you spot a Hitachi mark on the 3 way pipe connector ? It is cool. I still do not have time to replace it, and yes, still leaking little bit ! And my blue 240Z is in the museum next to a elder Fairlady. Kats

The decal "Do not touch!" was attached by the museum, I think it is useful for daily use like this. I love your dad's story. Kats

Hi hr369, I enjoyed so much the ride with you, that day was a pretty hot day for Japanese May, but air was very dry so the S20 engine seemed quite happy and proud of making fantastic sound . Thank you for uploading the video, I will keep it forever. This is the best video which I can hear the S20 engine beautiful sound. Kats

Just got back from Japan and finished uploading this video of a ride in Kats' 432. The condition of this car is amazing and its good to see it being driven and enjoyed. The guy in that black ferrari was really gawking at the 432. I can only imagine what it must have been like to be a cop back in 1970 chasing down speeders in one of these beasts. Thanks Kats for graciously sharing your cars and your knowledge of these cars over the years. Youtube video