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Just getting ready to re-paint the tail light finisher on my 7'70 that is currently satin black and I found a very close matching Dupli-Color paint that is not a metallic finish, It is a Ford color called Dark Shadow Gray. In Canada it is Dupli-Clor number CBFM0360. For a test I did a partial paint to the inside of a tail light finisher half from my 12/70 parts car that was the original grey. I also did a test on a old license plate light body. I used two coats of paint and two coats of the Dupli-Color matte clear. Here are the results comparing to one of my un-restored original hubcaps that are only brought out for shows. Here is a close up showing the new paint at the top and the original paint at the bottom, I'm quite happy with the results. The paint not being metallic makes the job much more forgiving. And here is the license plate light body with new paint compared to the un-restored hub cap:

SledZ, In order to possess or keep the secret Datsun Z handshake you must be able to convey a proper VIN when discussing the Marque's. Are you discussing an HLS30, an S30, an S30S, an HS30 or what? Automatic transmissions were produced and available from the very beginning of production so your 1971 model year production is pretty far down the line. The information on Zhome is probably exclusive to HLS30s which were not exported with an automatic transmission until later, however there are all those other "VINs" out there with automatic transmissions well before the production of your car.

Hi all, I've been a bit lazy giving updates and kinda relied upon my FB page so I apologise to those of you who don't or won't FB ! Here are the latest photos with a few captions ! Tooling up for the revised Street-sport manifold. Preparation of the bulk items ready for treatment and assembly. Ok, it's happening - progress, but still lots to do.... JDM silencers in processing. There have been some fitting issues with the previous batch which have been addressed : thicker V-band clamp bolts (6-8mm) thicker fixing straps (5-8mm) replaced Street-sport lower flange bolt-holes chamfored edge under no.1 port (here in prototype) Getting there.....but just not quick enough - just 1 (sometimes 2x men working on them)....and stopping to take 'my' photographs ! Finally, delivery has been confirmed as the week beginning 18th July and I shall ensure that all pre-paid orders are sent out first that week as a priority - thankyou all for your trust and patience. Improvements are : 1) lambda sensor plugs in each 'Y' collecteur. 2) improved flange fitting and exhaust fixations 3) improved Street-sport manfold and Y-pipe collector 4) an even easier exhaust fitting and higher up towards the chassis. 5) a 2+2 extension to enable ALL the S30s to improve themselves. Any and all questions - just ask - a pleasure to hear from you.

Ragtops & Roadsters / Pollock Auto Restorations had my 1974 260Z on display indoors. The restoration is 99% complete.

Hi Chris, Yes, that car looks like it has been repainted a much darker green than the factory 907. It was listed on the Treasure Coast FL craigslist about a month ago (right in your backyard). I wondered if you or Jim F knew of the car. I think it was listed for $25K OBO then. I saved the photos from the craigslist ad, but unfortunately not the ad itself. I'm attaching a few of the craigslist pics, and it's the same dark green. Apparently the current seller bought the car and then listed it on ebay as soon as he got it. He seems to try to flip a lot of 240Zs. If the bids above $50K were real, he's crazy not to take them, given the amount of work that car needs to be correct. Like you, it's gotten me considering selling my HLS30-00032 car if I could get those kind of prices for it, and my car is restored/original with all of the correct early parts.

Well, this motivates me. I often wondered if a restored early car would bring this sort of money. What I'm hearing from the comments is that a "correct" car would be of this value class. I'm motivated to work on my cars. One comment mentioned the color "change". The shock towers and the rear wheel arches are original vinyl if ever I saw, meaning the car would have been 907 racing green. See how faded the vinyl is compared to the seats? I wonder if the pictures are dark or if the paint color is dark. Racing green is much lighter IMO. Check out the lower left corner of the deck lid valance. See the seam in the deck carpet between the seats?

post your question here http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ and do a bunch of reading. there are a bunch of great guys there and more info than you will ever need

The shop is empty now so it got a fresh coat of paint on the floor, starting to build the test stand. Once the new gauges arrive from Speedhut I'll mount the dash right behind engine so I can get the wiring laid out properly. After I get the engine running with all the systems working and ready to install I'll cut off all the uprights on the test stand and use the base as the dolly for the shell.

That Borescope inspection camera is something I need to get. My Audi has a water leak at the back of a new coolant flange that I just installed. Several different ports, all -O-ring fittings so leak could be at any one of three different places. Can't see anything with the naked eye, but a Borescope like that would be perfect. Less than $15 !! That's amazing. Thanks for the tip.

Right on guys. I'll try to find some time to play around with the pedal and linkage this week just to make sure it's all lined up like it's supposed to. I doubt very much I played with the master, but there's no harm in pulling it out just to see. I replaced the slave cylinder back in 2010/2011 -- and back then (unbeknownst to me at the time) the clutch was so worn out that the rod-length on the new slave was keeping that fork from retreating all the way... so in my mind at the time I needed to modify the new slave cylinder to make it work correctly... I ended up drilling that dish the rod sits in just enough so that the slave could sit flush with the fork lever. Since I'm a little older and (arguably) wiser now, I knew that with a new clutch/pressure-disc going in, the hackneyed slave cylinder had to go, which is why I put in a new one at the same time I did this job. They're cheap enough, and there's an Autozone hub 45 minutes from my house that has pretty much anything I'd ever need for this car in stock, so it was an easy decision. The clutch master was replaced at a later date... sometime between then and now... which is why I don't remember fiddling with it. @EuroDat Yeah dude, it feels pretty good that I was able to take apart a transmission, replace the broken bits, throw it all back together, and have it work. It really puts that $700-900 rebuild quote into perspective! I think I got out of this whole thing for somewhere in the neighborhood of $120 if you include specialty tools and replacement parts (along with new gear oil) and don't count the clutch/pressure-plate. @Zed Head The clutch and pressure-plate came as a kit -- the clutch brand is Parault I believe, and the pressure plate is from Exedy. The new throw-out bearing was OEM (Koyo? Does that sound right? I chucked most of the boxes after I was done with everything -- the replacement parts have all been sitting on a shelf for a few years, so no chance of warranty-claims on any of it should it all go suddenly awry...) Now I just need to go and knock on some wood or something... I'm superstitious and I sure I hope I haven't jinxed the whole car by singing my own praises! Thanks again for all of the help and insights, team. Oh, and @Dave WM I look forward to hearing how you progress on your end too! I've been so wrapped up in my own project I haven't seen how yours is coming.

Installed my Watanabe center caps. Makes the wheels look more "finished"