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For what it's worth, I used Eastwood weldable primer inside the areas I patched. I also used Easwood's internal frame coating when I was done. I put the nozzle they provide in the boltholes and sprayed it everywhere until the car just sat there with green paint leaking out of every seam.

GO MARK, GO................ (one small voice) Snicker.......

I spent a couple of hours reading last night after googling acid dip vs media blast. I did not realize how controversial a subject matter it is. I'll see if I can do a quick & dirty summary of what I read. If chemical strip is done right, many agree it is the best. The body is dipped in acid and/or alkali and then neutralized and immediately e-coated to prevent flash rusting. The key step is neutralizing the last chemical dip, otherwise it will leach out and destroy paint years later. E-coating is a process similar to powder coating. Google it to learn more. There are many advocates of media blasting. Most agree NOT to use sand, as it is too aggressive and can easily warp thin sheet metal. The downsides of media blasting are that it gets into every nook and cranny and is difficult to remove before painting. There are upsides and downsides to each. Its sort of pick your poison. Makes me glad I have an Arizona car!

For anyone that is curious, both of the Craigslist links above still work.

I probably did a complete seam weld. I think that I then used some filler to eliminate then edge so debris wouldn't catch it. I'm currently working on my AAR 'cuda and am replacing part of the floor pan. I'm going to lap weld because the metal is thin. Years from now I'll put it on the rotisserie and do a more complete/better job. Chuck

The correct spellin fo that sayin is usetacould. ya'll

It's been a while, but updates from the damage repair are slowly coming in from the paint shop. Meanwhile working getting " the stang " back together..

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO The voices. I can't stop the voices. They keep saying REPLY, REPLY, REPLY.

Can you wait a couple of weeks? I just got all of the stuff together to redo the relays on my 260Z. I just need to get a work project out the door. Then I will have photos AND drawings done.

Sounds like what my mother in law said to my wife....

I went with the following wheel/tire combination Fronts are Watanabe 16X9 -13 offset, 4X114.3 lug. Tires are Mich Pilot Sport A/S plus 225/50ZR-16 Rear are Watanabe 16X9.5 -19 offset, 4X114.3 lug. Tires are Mich Pilot Sport A/S plus 245/50ZR-16 Lots of mods to accept bigger wheels. Struts/springs/hubs/camber plates/:)... Gord

Thanks! It's an Auto-Twirler rotisserie with mounts for a Mopar. I drilled an extra hole in the front mount and made an adapter for the rear and bolted it up! I've done a few 240Z floors and they're pretty easy compared to this. The 280Z floors don't have all the bends of the originals so there's more manipulation. It was a lot of work to get those in. Anyway, I think they turned out pretty nice for a race car. Chuck

Yeah, that section of welding the new frame to the old frame under the car is tricky. You can make it a little less upsidedown by jacking up just one side of the car. The 240Z floors go in MUCH easier than 280Z floors. I installed 280Z floors/frames in my race car over the winter and it was tough even with a helper and having the car on a rotisserie! Chuck