Leaking from spark plug sockets

[heyitsrama]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I've never had a spark plug get stuck or stripped a head thread.  Seems like a solution with no problem.

I had a buddy come over a couple of weeks ago with his work Tacoma, he said it was struggling up hills in SF. So I started looking around and it seemed to have a misfire. We started isolating coils to see if that was related and it looked like a coil was bad… the plugs were old and corroded, so I suggested we change them out while we flip the coils around to isolate the issue further.

When installing one of the new spark plugs it would not screw into the head….  I look down into the spark plug hole and there was little bits of epoxy everywhere, the spark plug hole was cross threaded, and all the threads were removed, the new spark plug just span inside the hole.

apparently some dude at my buddy’s work is learning to be a mechanic and he was the last guy working on the truck! I’m not sure how he managed to **** it up so bad, but he did. Maybe he was using a impact gun to install the spark plugs…. Anyway another reason to not trust backyard mechanics….. except us 😂😂😂

Edited October 1, 2021 by heyitsrama

[ETI4K]

I'm sure we've all had the pleasure (and a fair amount of pucker factor) of breaking loose a spark plug, and then finding it has to wrenched out the entire way. If it comes out with no aluminum on it, phew! - saved another one.

Been using anti-seize a long, long time, and I've never had any performance issues.  Neither has the anti-seize. 😂

[Racer X]

I never use power took on spark plugs, iron heads or aluminium. Always remove them with a spark plug socket and ratchet, install by hand and torque with a torque wrench.

It isn't a good idea to remove them when the engine is hot, the threads may call and pull them out.

I have had to repair threads on both iron and aluminium heads over the years, always after some back has used and tools on them.

[Zed Head]

Seems like these types of conversations always get simplified down to things that are easy to remember.  Don't use power tools, don't remove plugs from a hot engine, use anti-seize.

But if you look closer you find that the basis for the simple guidelines don't have much support or are pretty well undefined.  Pneumatic impact or non-impact,  electric?, slow speed or high speed. etc.  Which of the many different types of anti-seize; copper, aluminum, etc.  How hot is hot?  Heating up or cooling down?  Does all of this apply to nickel-coated plugs designed not to gall?  Should the manufacturers' instructions be ignored?  Does what people did in the 60's apply today?

This guy has a pretty popular channel.  One video on "normal" plugs shows the common advice, the other shows an extreme case for a bad plug design.  But it worked somehow.  Power tools, hot, all the bad stuff.  He uses the aluminum anti-seize.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2021 by Zed Head
+ are

[mailnome]

Those 3 valve motors are b awch.

On those I was told to only “crack” them, then soak them with carb cleaner for a while. Then use a electric ratchet and don’t stop till they are out.


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[siteunseen]

My Dad got me started using rubber tubes that were yellow and blue. I think they were Good/year but he always said they were what the nascar guys used because of the high heat. My Dad who was no pit crew member said they just tightened them down until the crush washer seated down and was tight. I can't find a pic now...

Found something similar.

Edited October 2, 2021 by siteunseen

[ETI4K]

Unless one is an engineer, with very specific experience in the topic at hand, I've always advised against deviating from their guidelines - unfortunately,  almost always presented in the form of poorly written installation instructions.

For example, my all-time favorite is "Tighten securely".  How many times I have argued with the marketing whizzes that such a statement means virtually nothing to one with no experience.  Another good one is one that warns against doing something and offers nothing about why.  TATFAW.

[ETI4K]

I knew I'd get to use TATFAW soon! 😁

[Captain Obvious]

Haha!! I think you've been lying in wait just looking for the opportunity to use that!   

[crayZlair]

Back to the OP, is it possible that someone installed the wrong plugs w/o the crush washer?

[mayolives]

Quote From Sed Head  (above)

"I've never had a spark plug get stuck or stripped a head thread.  Seems like a solution with no problem.  Anyway, many plugmakers and automakers recommend keeping the threads clean."

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

Thank you.  An old dog learns another new trick.  I've been using anti seize, the silver stuff that always ends up where it's not wanted, on NGK spark plugs for a cazillion years.  Of course I've never read what NGK had to say about not using it, but I will change my ways today!

Edited October 6, 2021 by mayolives

[Zed Head]

Nothing wrong with using it.  Just be aware of the new risks.  Contaminated electrodes and over-torquing.

https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf