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Putting in a replacement L-28


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To me, the best way to restore the battery area is to drill out the spot welds and remove the tray. If you do this, buy a nice, properly sized spot weld drill bit and extender, and practice removing spot welds without drilling through the body. You will then need to weld up the holes in the battery frame...or buy a new one.  I use rivet nuts to re-attach the tray to the body.

Not saying you should do this though. It is a pretty big rabbit hole because you will probably want to clean up those passenger side frame rails too...which is difficult without removing the fuel / brake lines and harness that passes through the firewall.

Nice car.

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I’m leaving for a work trip is a few hours but managed to complete all the paint touch up work in the engine bay. Hopefully when I get back my Eibach Springs will be here and I can move forward with suspension and then the engine.

Battery tray came out “okay” I’d give it C at best but it serves the purpose to stop further rusting and be a little cleaner. In the end, it’s an engine bay, so I’m not going to be too bothered by some paint flaws. I know all the rust in there is properly addressed and I can move forward. I can live with this.

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Question for you guys. In my final prep of the engine bay ( waiting on my springs that are scheduled to arrive Monday) I pulled off the metal bracket that the fuse link mount too, so I could get it powder coated (guy did it for $10). While pulling it out I was looking at the items attached to is and I was wondering if you guys can identify these things. One looks like some sort of relay possibly a capacitor off to the side which has a wire broken off. There is another box below those. In both pics you can see the wire missing on item 2.

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1 - is your voltage regulator.

2 - is (what's left of) a condenser that is supposed to tie into a blue wire that goes to the voltage regulator (among other things). It's purpose is to filter out electrical noise.

3- is your air conditioner compressor relay. Closes when the system is calling for cool.

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Thanks Bruce. I don’t see another wire (the blue one you’re referring too) going into the voltage regulator. There is only one bundle coming out of the VR and it seems intact? I forgot that Nissan went with the combined alternator/voltage regulator in 78’. Is that the preferred setup or is this fine. I only ask because I had my Hitachi alternator rebuilt at a shop in Memphis that does this kind of work. (Alternator, starters, etc). If I need to replace this alternator is it easiest to bypass this and go with the combined unit. Also I found a condenser at zcardept but they only have them for the 240z and 510z. Didn’t see any for the 280z in my quick search online.


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According to the wiring diagram, the blue wire that connects to that condenser comes out of the main harness and I would expect it to come out somewhere close to where the voltage regulator branch comes out. It should be a single blue with a bullet connector on the end. I'll look at my car when I get a chance and see if I can find mine.

As for what you should do with an alternator choice... If your original alternator and external regulator work fine, then there's nothing wrong with just leaving them be.

But if either of those parts (alternator or regulator) give you troubles, then I'd recommend taking the opportunity to mod over to the newer internally regulated version.

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Thanks again Bruce.
Eibach springs arrived and they’re the right ones for the 280z.
6303-001 Fronts
63003-002 Backs

Starting putting them on and ran into a small problem with the bellows I bought from zcardepot. I can figure out which way they go. The ends of the bellows have places to put clamps. One side is wide the other thinner and the diameter is larger on the wide side. If I put the wide side towards the bottom of the strut the bellow clamp area is too large (diameter) to cinch down on the strut, it ends up folding on itself. The other way around you cannot fit it over/around the upper seat. It’s would need to stretch pretty far and I can seem to get it over. Anyone else face this problem?

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This last pic it what I think is the proper orientation but again it requires me to stretch the top part of the bellows over the flange on the upper strut seat. See first pic. Does this seem right?


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Looks like the man is growing a thumbnail back!

Had a run in with a heavy hammer a a few months ago driving in a stake with my son. Lost an index finger nail two years ago removing the PCV from under the intake of the Z after the wrench slipped.


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@jonathanrussell
@zKars

My concern with Rivnuts is that drilling a hole in the sheetmetal exposes bare steel to the elements, and since Rivnuts don't form a gas-tight seal (AFIK), there's a chance you would get some rusting around that hole.

I love the idea of using Rivnuts.  I've always sealed any sheetmetal screws or similar by smooging silicone into the hole and onto the screw before threading it in.

So I am just wondering, have you ever seen rusting around the Rivnut?

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My translation... I believe they are referring to jonathanrussell's comment at the top of this page about how do deal with the battery tray refurb:

"To me, the best way to restore the battery area is to drill out the spot welds and remove the tray. If you do this, buy a nice, properly sized spot weld drill bit and extender, and practice removing spot welds without drilling through the body. You will then need to weld up the holes in the battery frame...or buy a new one.  I use rivet nuts to re-attach the tray to the body."

 

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And about your strut boot fitment...  I believe the strut boot is intended to snap onto a bump stop plug.

The bump stop goes up under the hat and the boot can be attached to the bump stop either with the boot simply snapping into a groove in the bump stop. or a zip tie if necessary.

In other words, the aftermarket boot may not be designed to snap around the flange on the hat like the original, but may snap around the bump stop instead. Like this pic from a generic boot on amazon:

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8 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You can put a smoog of sealant on both sides of the sheet metal before inserting the the rivnut, then crimp it down.

Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive.

I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it.

Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.

 

 

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11 hours ago, Racer X said:

Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive.

I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it.

Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.

 

 

I didn't say silicone 😉 I can't stand the stuff, it's good enough for bathtub caulking but I don't use the stuff on cars.

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I’ve been battling the proper way to install these Koni’s. I read the long thread on the forum about them and it helped a lot. I decided to make a short video and wrap it all up and see if everyone agrees that I didn’t this correct. I also posted this video over on the Koni thread for future members looking for instructions.

Gland nuts were an issue that I didn’t mention in the video but did over in the Koni thread.




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17 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I didn't say silicone 😉 I can't stand the stuff, it's good enough for bathtub caulking but I don't use the stuff on cars.

Correct.

ETI4K did, and I tried to multi quote you both but failed.

Sorry, eh?

 

 

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