Putting in a replacement L-28

[Av8ferg]

I also got my freshly painted front air dam and hood grills on.

[Yarb]

Sweet!!

[siteunseen]

Man! That looks great.

I put the original lip behind my Xenon spoiler to stop the high speed flexing, flapping maybe, and it made a big difference as far as reinforcement. You can adjust those front lips so I did mine right up snug behind the spoiler.

The thing circled in your picture.

[Av8ferg]

Man! That looks great.
I put the original lip behind my Xenon spoiler to stop the high speed flexing, flapping maybe, and it made a big difference as far as reinforcement. You can adjust those front lips so I did mine right up snug behind the spoiler.
The thing circled in your picture.

Thanks Cliff, I remember you saying that in a previous post. I’m wondering if this would damage the new paint in the center valance with it rubbing on the air dam? I was going to look into attaching an 1” aluminum strip inside the air dam and attach turnbuckles to the center mount on the radiator crossmember. I was going to mock this up and post it on the forum. Won’t get to it for awhile with all the other stuff Im doing on the car with higher priority. I’ll take a look at how that center valance sits in there and see if it’s the best option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[siteunseen]

Oh yeah, it would rub the paint unless you put some type of cushion in between. I did that on those 10mm bolts on the top left and right side where the spoiler attaches to the metal close to the headlights. I used those flat rubber fender washer looking things from Lowe's. Did you have as much fun as me attaching those two bolts?   Those were a pain in my rectum.

[Av8ferg]

Oh yeah, it would rub the paint unless you put some type of cushion in between. I did that on those 10mm bolts on the top left and right side where the spoiler attaches to the metal close to the headlights. I used those flat rubber fender washer looking things from Lowe's. Did you have as much fun as me attaching those two bolts?   Those were a pain in my rectum.

Those bolts were a pain. You need little hands to get in there, like many things on the Z.. I didn’t use plastic washers between the air dam and body but maybe that’s a good idea. My Air Dam isn’t fully tightened up yet. I wanted it off the ground before one of my kids hit it with a bike or skateboard doing tricks. I’ve got crap all over the place from this car, and I need to start putting it actually on the car. I have parts that I’ve put away that I can’t find now. Like new emblems and interior pieces. One day they’ll show up.
Next step is to instal the heater box, get the heater hoses hooked up and get the dash in. OBTW, in a moment of stupidity, I needed to move the car out of the garage. Didn’t have time think it through not if it would start with the entire dash out and associated harnesses disconnected. I started the car only to get a nice splash of coolant shoot out the two hoses that connect to the heater core. Made a nice mess. I ended putting a fitting connecting those hose together and that solved that. Nice green puddle on the garage floor from that….duhhh. This is what happens when you have so many projects in work and forget where you left my off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Av8ferg]

I need an assist.  I’ve installed the heater box in the car and while looking at to make sure the 2” vent dash hoses routing in FSM I stumbled on this drawing of the heater box and how the heater hoses connect to the 2 valves.  I’ve reinstalled my hoses based on the pictures I took prior to removal and it appears the FSM shows the hoses to the heater control valve opposite what I showed when I removed. (See the A and B arrows on the attachments)  Can someone verify that the FSM isn’t wrong (I know it’s unlikely) but before I remove the box again in want to be 100% sure.  Not sure how the setup impacts the heater system.  Thanks  
 

[SteveJ]

I looked at the 77 FSM and the parts manual. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/car-heater/from-aug-73

I think you have it backwards. This is from the parts manual with my enhancements in red.

[SteveJ]

This is from AC-59 in the 77 FSM. You can see the U shaped hose connecting on the opposite pipe from where you have it. The U shaped hose is part number 16 in the image in my previous post.

 

[Av8ferg]

Thanks guys.  I was fearful you were correct.  I’ve pulled it and made the changes.  I always have to do tasks 2 to 3 times before I get it right.  That’s holds true with the heater box.  Here’s what I got now. 

Edited February 28, 2022 by Av8ferg

[SteveJ]

At least it's not as challenging to change as when it's under the dash.

[Captain Obvious]

At quick glance, I think the way you had it first may be correct?

Based on the design, the inlet leg on the temp control valve should be the straight leg, and the outlet side should be the one that comes off sticking out the side.

And on the engine... The connection pushing water into the core is the one at the back of the head, and the connection returning to the water pump is the longer hose running near the oil filter. So with that in mind, you ought to be able to determine which hose goes where?

a) Head outlet to vacuum cokk inlet.
b) Vacuum cokk outlet to temp valve inlet.
c) Temp valve outlet to heater core inlet.
d) Heater core outlet back to water pump.