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Cooper260z

Look at my car, tell me what you think.

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Hello, my name is cooper, I’m 18 and this is my ‘74 260z I recently bought. 
 

I've wanted a 240Z for a few years now, but when I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 260z being parted out that was a complete A/C car that had been in a garage for 25 years, I thought that was just absurd and made a deal to buy the whole car. 
 

This is my first Z but not my first project car so I at least think I kind of know what I’m doing a bit. I have a basic idea if nothing els. 
 

The pictures show the current state of the car, just a bit different from how I picked it up. I’ve cleaned it a bit in an attempt to get the smell of rat pee out, I’ve removed the carpet and the Louvres but otherwise it looks the same as it did when I got it. 
 

The car is very solid, has minimal rust and is pretty straight. 
 

Since I’m not familiar with these cars yet I’d like the opinions of some people that are. Like if anything stands out as surprising, or cool or absolutely terrible, let me know I’d love to hear it!

 

I have already started working on it, I’ve done the brakes and put in some new ignition parts in, It does run and drive now. Runs surprisingly well too. Doesn’t stop quite as well but I’m still working on that

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 Welcome. Your 260 appears to be in quite good shape and quite original. Congratulations on a great find. Most of us have had to start on a Z that was in much worse shape than yours. What are your plans for it?

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Hello! Whats the Vin/production Year on the chassis?

I think it just needs some odds and ends sorted out and it would be perfect to putt around in.

I'm also in the SF Bay, I've been working on a Early 260z for a while now, nice to see more local people. ?

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Smart boy keeps a fire extinguisher handy...

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@Mark Maras The plan for now is just to get it running and driving well. Then I’d like it to be a bit lower, better wheels and triple carbs look pretty cool and fun. But that stuff will be later. And I still want a 240Z too, but this car seems too solid to get rid of right now. 
 

@heyitsrama Hey, maybe we can get together sometime! I don’t have any Datsun buddies yet. 
The vin is 023321its a February ‘74 car. 
 

@wheee! Gotta have an extinguisher, especially with the new unknown cars. 

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Woah thats not too far off from mine, `19462`

I've been itching to get my car out, I've spent the last couple weeks repairing the hatch panel rust, almost there, was getting the rear seal glued down yesterday.

Early 260z's  can be weird with subtle changes, esp in the electrical/wiring section. Let me know if you need a hand! ?

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Welcome! Nice save, love the original blue plates and flat-top carbs on a running motor are a rare sight these days. I'm on my second 260Z and have a bunch of old parts from my previous 240s and 260s, shout if you guys ever need anything. I noticed the condition of your bumpers and I know I have at least one early 260Z bumper, can't recall whether it's a front or rear. I also have brackets to convert an early 260 to 240 bumpers.

My current one is also a 2/74 build, serial number 24368. ?

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Welcome to the forum Cooper, nice find, your Z appears to be in pretty decent shape. They are easy cars to work on and any problem you may run into someone on this forum will have the answer for you.

I love those wheels, they are certainly period correct aftermarket. 

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Congrats @Cooper260z!  One lesson I learned when I bought my first 240Z was rust.  As I began to take a closer look at the car, I found rust here, there, and everywhere.  Mainly the under side of the car.  I finally decided it wasn't safe to drive.  I plan to save it, but it'll take about $15K to make it right.

I'm not trying to scare you, but you really need to look hard under the car to ensure it safe to drive.  If it is safe, then you can restore it slowly.

Lastly, if you can, learn to do body work to include welding.  If you have those skills, then you can really look at old cars in a different way.  I can do almost anything, but I can't weld or do body work (hence the $15K to restore one of my 240Zs)

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@LeonV wow that’s a close vin! I would be interested in a bumper but the budget is tight right now. Too many cars and not enough money kind of thing. I’m sure I’ll need something eventually though, I’ll be sure to ask. 

thanks @grannyknot that’s what I like to hear. I love a good forum community 

@wadelester My dad does body and metal work so I understand what it takes to do that stuff, and I understand that I’d prefer not to. But I could do it, and I’m taking automotive painting at the community college I go to. So given enough time and money, it could get to looking pretty nice.
And the underside of the car looks very nice.The floors are a bit pushed in, but no rust 

 

 

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@Captain Obvious that 2002 is my dads, but I have a couple also. That’s what I started with. My first car was ‘69 2002 that I bought before even had a learners permit. It was fine because it needed a lot of work before I could drive it. Love that car 

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@Cooper260z the underside does look nice.  Well, it looks like you're a chip off the old block.  As someone said earlier, there are some very experience zed heads here, so you came to the right place.

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11 hours ago, Cooper260z said:

 2002 is my dads, but I have a couple also.

Cool. I've never owned one, but I've driven one. Fun cars.

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So this car seems very complete and mostly original. Normally my mindset would be to remove the smog equipment, like the air pump and the charcoal canister. But I feel like since everything is there it’s almost kinda sad to take it out. Do these parts even work anymore? Does anyone els need them? Would I get style points for having a cluttered engine bay? I’m undecided so far

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On 6/13/2020 at 4:07 AM, wadelester said:

@Cooper260z the underside does look nice.

The underside looks good, yes, but this car was also, - as many many others -  abused on a 2 column, YOU CAN'T LIFT A CAR LIKE THAT!  Sorry but those front lift points should not lift a car there.. (those points can NOT take the whole front car weight)

I use a 4 colomn and always under the axle lift the car. If there is no 4 colomn lift use  or make yourself (!) some bars to lift the car under the axles.. 

Once (a few years ago) a APK (Like an MOT only dutch) technician tried to do this with my perfect nissan 300zxtt and i almost had to kick him in the **** to stop him! It has the same just steel sheet beams there.. and you will ruin the car if you lifted it there for sure! (a nissan 300zxtt weighs 1630 kg..  a lot of pounds haha yeah about 3585 Lbs)  That technician is no longer in that shop.. luckely i ALWAYS stay at the garage that is checking my car..  If i can't? there will be no work on my car!

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As a counter point. I would not be afraid to lift the car the way they did as long as the pad is on the thicker part of the frame rail at the fire wall. Not under the floor or floor rails! Also the pads need to be nice and flat. The cross member is even better but not everyone has access to a four post lift

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Posted (edited)

The only way I will lift my 83 ZX is by the center of the front crossmember behind the oil pan or the differential housing in back. I use the front frame arms as jackstand points and the attachment points for the rear suspension for jackstands in back. I've done this for 30 years of ownership and never bent anything.  I did the same with my 1970 240Z, my 1976 280Z, and my 1982 280ZX. No damage to any of them.

Lifting by the floor pans would incline me to have a totally uncharacteristic moment of rage and CHEW THE arse off the person who tried it. Not acceptable today, tomorrow, or any other time. There are good options that don't cause damage, and it doesn't take a MENSA member to find them.

Edited by Pilgrim
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15 hours ago, Cooper260z said:

Do you have pictures or more specifics on where you lift it so I can do it properly 

Sorry no.. But there are for sure pic's in a user manual ?  

I'm just ending (ahumm...) a restore of a 280zx, a car i would normally not put on a painters lift ( also known as a tire lift, cleaning lift.)  it takes the car up on the 4 jack-up points that are also seen in the service manual you can get here on the forum..

My 280zx is now 41 years old and has had a dinitrol or other anti rust treatment in his early years and i was confident to put it on those small lifts without any damage. but now it's painted i don't put it on those lifts, just a bit scared i crack the paint..  From now on i take it up on my 4 post lift or under an axle.

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6 hours ago, Pilgrim said:

Lifting by the floor pans would incline me to have a totally uncharacteristic moment of rage and CHEW THE arse off the person who tried it. Not acceptable today, tomorrow, or any other time. There are good options that don't cause damage, and it doesn't take a MENSA member to find them.

I AGREE 100%  

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I've had no issue with using the TC rod mounting points and the reinforced bits at the rear on a two-poster.

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