Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow.

Most Rad shops could solder that back on for you, but you would have to pull it from the car.

I have successfully stuck those back on with JB Weld.  You have to press the tab down firmly while the epoxy is setting.

Yes, just pull the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop.  Normal maintenance and repair.  Don't butcher up your lovely car with a replacement 3-row with a shroud.  Or, JB Weld?  What on earth are you thinking?

Get that radiator professionally repaired, including a flush and pressure test while its at the shop - money well spent.  Have the shop pass on any quick paint job (if they still do that), then clean up the tanks and frame and give it a good coat or two of gloss enamel. 

6 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

 Don't butcher up your lovely car with a replacement 3-row with a shroud. 

That's an unnecessary personal attack against me.  95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars.  

 

28 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

That's an unnecessary personal attack against me.  95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars.  

 

Well, your name is Mud, isn't it?  Where in my sentence is there any mention of you personally? 

Look, zhead240 has a really nice car that he paid a lot of money for.  Would you like it if your mechanic repaired your nice car the way you suggested?  Chill out, dude.  Drink a beer and enjoy your ride.

My 240Z radiator came unsoldered at that same spot, same side too. My VIn is 907 I wonder if some radiators were soldered by the same guy on a Monday.

hmmm... My car's VIN is 5/70 and the tab that came unsoldered was the lower pssgr side.  I think that what we have here may be a process or material problem, rather than a worker problem.  Fortunately, the fix is easy.  And on the 'glass half-full' side of the equation, I can't think of too many other places on the 240Z where things just 'broke'.

My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot.

In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush.

A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop.

I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now.

On 9/8/2016 at 3:14 PM, siteunseen said:

Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow.

Pull that radiator and have a shop fix it right. And have them also flush it and/or rod it out. And a good shop will also paint it up nice.  Glue or JB weld is not a legitimate fix. And siteunseen offers an excellent alternative. A 3 row and shroud is the best cooling solution. Radiators with shrouds work much better.