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28 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

That's an unnecessary personal attack against me.  95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars.  


Well, your name is Mud, isn't it?  LOL Where in my sentence is there any mention of you personally? 

Look, zhead240 has a really nice car that he paid a lot of money for.  Would you like it if your mechanic repaired your nice car the way you suggested?  Chill out, dude.  Drink a beer and enjoy your ride.

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hmmm... My car's VIN is 5/70 and the tab that came unsoldered was the lower pssgr side.  I think that what we have here may be a process or material problem, rather than a worker problem.  Fortunately, the fix is easy.  And on the 'glass half-full' side of the equation, I can't think of too many other places on the 240Z where things just 'broke'.

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My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot.

In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush.

A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop.

I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now.

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On 9/8/2016 at 3:14 PM, siteunseen said:

Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow.

Pull that radiator and have a shop fix it right. And have them also flush it and/or rod it out. And a good shop will also paint it up nice.  Glue or JB weld is not a legitimate fix. And siteunseen offers an excellent alternative. A 3 row and shroud is the best cooling solution. Radiators with shrouds work much better. 

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