Restoring the 280Z EFI Fuel pump (if possible)

[wheee!]

Great info Chas! Thanks for going to all the trouble of documenting this rebuild for us!

[240260280z]

Interesting find!

[bhermes]

Just reading this thread. I have been having possible fuel delivery issues and was thinking of replacing the Airtex pump with the 269 dollar pump. Does the Airtex pump have a inlet strainer? The car runs fine 95% of the time and then stalls. Thought it might be an issue with the pump not having a strainer or not be that great.

Tank had a couple small pin holes that might be causing an issue with moisture or air pick up. Holes were where the straps are located on the tank. Repairing the holes

Thoughts. I have another thread but this was extremely interesting and trying to get on board with not wasting parts and saving bucks.

[siteunseen]

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on your car.  You can put one on a 4 foot piece of hose and zip-tie it to the driver's wiper arm and watch it while you drive.  $10 dollars worth of stuff from Lowes, the gauge is in the pool supply section as a replacement for the pool's filter gauge.  Please do that before you spend $270.  There's a lot of folks that run an aftermarket pump without any problems.  My $.02 worth, I bought a new Bosch for $250 and there was nothing wrong with the original.  I had to put a potentiometer on the coolant sensor wire, $5 from Radio Shack to finally get mine to pull hard all the time.

 

It's all right here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

[Chickenman]

Just reading this thread. I have been having possible fuel delivery issues and was thinking of replacing the Airtex pump with the 269 dollar pump. Does the Airtex pump have a inlet strainer? The car runs fine 95% of the time and then stalls. Thought it might be an issue with the pump not having a strainer or not be that great.

Tank had a couple small pin holes that might be causing an issue with moisture or air pick up. Holes were where the straps are located on the tank. Repairing the holes

Thoughts. I have another thread but this was extremely interesting and trying to get on board with not wasting parts and saving bucks.

It is imperative that your run a Filter ( Fram G3 I believe ) before the Airtex pump. These new style pumps are a Turbine style ( With Ceramic Turbine wheel )  and will pump out a lot more pressure and are a lot quieter than the old Roller Vane style.

 

However, they have much, much tighter clearances inside and will not tolerate dirt particles that a Roller Vane would just chew up and spit out. All documented on Airtex Technical site.

 

The strainers ( if any ) in tank are just to catch the coarse stuff. Same with any Inlet strainers in the pump. Particularly on these old Vintage cars, always run an additional Pre-filter before the electric fuel pump. 

 

Edit: I run an Airtex Universal pump ( Part #E8312 ) on my 1976 280Z and it is much quieter than my stock pump ( which had minimal wear but it leaked around the electrical O-Rings ). Works just fine and has a lot more volume and pressure capability than the stock pumps.

Edited August 16, 2015 by Chickenman

[EuroDat]

Hi Guys,

I have a couple of old pretty sad original pumps. They all have problems in different areas. One is noisy and poor performance, the other is leaking around the terminal sealing mostly and a little all the way around the metal housing.

As you can see the parts are not all that interchangable for a number of reasons. Somewhere in the 280Z they changed over from Bosch to the JECS copy. The Japanese did a darn good job in copying it that you only discover it when you pull them apart and start measuring the different parts. There are some parts that will interchange like the inlet pieces, the rotor and rollers with the outer ring complete, but not as seperate parts. The inlet screens will not intrchange.

After MUCH research on the internet and parts books Ive found a lot od info on diferent car makers using the bosch pumps.

One clear easy way to to tell them apart is the terminal blocks. Black is Bosch and Blue is the JECS A24 000 00. I have the Bosch numbers, but not with me at the moment. There are other small things like philips head screws on the JeCS linet and blade heads on the Bosch. Not all bosch pumps have the part number on the back. I have one that does and ne that doesn't. All JECS seem to though.

A good, no a very good replacement is the Bosch and now I have the rare situation where I can get them for around $70 new in the box. Siteunseen, Ill gladly do you a favour a sell it to you for let say $150. Just joking of course. I just checked the prices over there in the US. WOW now thats a make up. I have seen some (rare occasions) go for €24 over here, thats like $30.

If someone needs one I can help find one for a good price plus the shipping. These pumps are made in the cheq republic anywhere else is a copy.

Chas

[Zed Head]

There is a range of years of Ford F150 pickup trucks that use the Bosch pump.  For those wrecking yard scavengers.  $70 for new is a good deal though.  The yard charges about $30.

[bhermes]

I have a pressure gauge and it consistently reads 32psi.

I understood this to be acceptable.

Good to understand how the strainer and original pump works.

I will add the filter back in between tank and pump.

Thanks.

[chiefmd]

Was researching fuel pumps and came across this thread, Very interesting. So I started googleing "Bosch 0580254984" and came across this pump. Here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Electrical-Fule-Pump-With-Install-Kits-for-Porsche-Volvo-Benz-450SEL-911-924-/322645466079?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

It looks identical to the Bosch but who knows. Has anyone tried one of these?