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Restoring the 280Z EFI Fuel pump (if possible)

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A while back I cleaned my 280Z fuel pump and replaced the o-rings. Its running ok and I compared it to an old reserve pump. The reserve pump delivered about 75% of the flow compared to the one in the car.

Since these pumps are getting harder to find in good condition I decided to take a closer look at the spare pump. The outside looked shocking, corroded and rusty so I cleaned and painted it to make it look respectable.

 

After opening it up Im wondering it was worth the trouble cleaning and keep it as an emergency unit. The inside is showing a lot more signs of wear compared to the one in the car.

 

There are possabilities to improve it. I was thinking of making a new center section (intermediate part) and maybe new rollers. The inner ring of this part has vertical lines which reduce performance some and make it noisy in operation. These parts are made from hardened steel, maybe steel type S890 (890MPa tear strength) would be suitable. Not sure what it would cost to make.

The inlet end plate could be surfaced 0,1mm to remove most of the wear. That would increase the crush on the o-ring, but it should be ok.

That should improve the output and reduce the noise a little.

 

Opinions welcome.

 

Here are some photos of the worn parts and a drawing of the part for possible replacement. 

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PumpRing1_Rev0.pdf


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Edited by EuroDat
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I think it would be worthwhile rebuilding this as a spare pump. The end plate can be lapped to remove the wear marks no problem.

 

On second thought. Let me go downstairs and check the shelves. I may still have my old pump there. Center section was in good shape as I recall and so was end plate. Motor was shot but rest of pump was good. 

Edited by Chickenman

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Dang.... Have the old pump and everything is in excellent condition, virtually no wear.. except I dropped it and knocked a big chip out of the center section right where the O-ring seats. Sorry.....  headwipe.gif 

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You should be able to lap both the end cap and the motor plate to eliminate the wear marks.

 

Edit: The Z Car Depot has new pumps for $269 USD. That's cheaper than other vendors have which range from $450 to $750.

 

$269 is not bad for these pumps if you require the OEM Jeco pump for restoration purposes. Otherwise I would just install an aftermarket Turbine style pump like an Airtex E8312.

 

Here is the link to the Jeco pump for $269 USD. They ship WorldWide:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280Z-280ZX-1975-83-Fuel-Pump-Fuel-injection-OEM-Genuine-NEW-/321802193884?fits=Make%3ANissan|Model%3A280Z&hash=item4aece7cbdc&vxp=mtr

Edited by Chickenman

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Dang.... Have the old pump and everything is in excellent condition, virtually no wear.. except I dropped it and knocked a big chip out of the center section right where the O-ring seats. Sorry..... headwipe.gif

Well at least Im not the only one that does that kind of thing. A couple of weeks back I was cleaning my ballast resistor and it looked like new for about 20seconds until I dropped it and it shattered.

What are the rollers and impeller like? This one seems worn when I compare it to the phots on Alanticz and from memory of my in car unit.

I would like to keep the original style. Thats why Im tinkering with this one. It works, but it sounds awfull and it doesn't pump as much as the one on the car now.

Here's some info from Blue on atlanticz;

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

Site, Thanks, I have read just about every page on Blues Atlanicz site. Its an ecellent source of info. The tech tip on these pumps is more external and replaceable things like o-rings. My problems with this pump is its worn out. Really no other word for it. Thats why I thought Id play with it a little, if I stuff it up no loss and I can always go aftermarket with the Bosch pump.

They use them here a lot on the old BMW, VW, Alfa and porches etc with the bosch J jetronic systems. Bosch still make them in the Cheq republic I think.

The maximum pressure is a little higher than the original, but that is controlled by the FPR. Google this part number 0580254984 and you will find them easy enough.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-0580254984-POMPA-CARBURANTE-ORIGINALE-Volvo-240-turbo-Porche-911-/371382769888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_101&hash=item56782358e0&vxp=mtr

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CO2LI2/ref=as_sl_pd_tf_lc?tag=boschfuelpumps-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=B001CO2LI2&adid=18GFZW2S9TJX21X6FHXH&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boschfuelpumps.com%2F

Edited by EuroDat
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This all started because I was curious why it was making so much noise and performing so badly, but now I think I may have a real chance of improving it.

 

I cleaned up the pump motor end and inlet part today. The first problem was I couldn't think of a way to work the motor end without getting a lot of fine material in the motor. Then I thought of trying grease to fill the holes and later flush it out by pouring fuel in from the outlet end through the motor. It seemed to work ok.

Next I sent the drawing of the center ring and the rollers to a machine shop that does work for us. It will be interesting to hear what it will cost to make.

 

In the mean time I will assemble the pump and do a free flow and pressure test to see what the rework has done to its performance. This pump barely making 3.3 (48psi) compared to the other pump making 3.7Barg (54psi).

 

Here are some before and after photo's

 

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Doesn't the internal relief valve determine maximum pressure?  Both of yours are in the range.  Flow rate at a set pressure might be a good measure of wear though.

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Doesn't the internal relief valve determine maximum pressure?  Both of yours are in the range.  Flow rate at a set pressure might be a good measure of wear though.

Thats true. I forgot about that really wide tolerance for the pressure relief valve.

The pressure wasn't worrying me because it was above the 36psi FPR maximum. Its the noise it making when its running at that pressure. I think the vertical lines in the ring and causing the noise when the rollors move over then. Its a lot noisier than the one in the car.

 

I found an old photo of my good pump to compare with these rollers. There is a lot of wear on them judging by the photo. These measure in at Ø4.5mm and Im wondering if they were more like Ø5.0mm when new. I can't confirm that just assuming.

The groove is 5.4mm wide which give 0.9mm clearance.

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I just measured my rollers and impeller. Rollers are 4.98 - 4.99 mm and impeller is 5.34 mm. Clearance of .35mm

 

Richard

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I suspected they would be 5mm. Thanks for taking the measurements.

Looks like Ill be up for a new set of them too.

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Pulled the pump out of the car today to compare the internals.

It also has a small leak around the terminals. More notacable in cold weather because the fuel doesn't evapourate so quick and you can see a dip hanging from the terminals.

 

I will start calling them 280ZX (Spare) and 280Z (in car) pumps because they seem to have increased the capacity in the later model. The impeller, rollers and outer ring are 7.5mm in the 280ZX pump and 7.00mm in the 280Z pump.

 

The inlet screens are not interchangable. The 280ZX screen is 1mm bigger than the inside diameter of the 280Z inlet.

 

I am now thinking of swapping the impeller, rollers and outer ring to make one good pump. That would be the 280ZX motor and inlet coupled to the pump middle section from the 280Z pump. After the holiday break Ill try to get a ring and rollers fabricated the spare unit. That will depend on price.

 

Here are some photo's of the parts.

1st row: Rollers showing worn 280ZX roller

2nd row: The outer ring thickness differences. The 280ZX is 7.5mm (0.5mm thicker)

3rd row: Roller length and the inlet filter screen. Won't fit the 280Z without force.

 

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Great info Chas! Thanks for going to all the trouble of documenting this rebuild for us!

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Just reading this thread. I have been having possible fuel delivery issues and was thinking of replacing the Airtex pump with the 269 dollar pump. Does the Airtex pump have a inlet strainer? The car runs fine 95% of the time and then stalls. Thought it might be an issue with the pump not having a strainer or not be that great.

Tank had a couple small pin holes that might be causing an issue with moisture or air pick up. Holes were where the straps are located on the tank. Repairing the holes

Thoughts. I have another thread but this was extremely interesting and trying to get on board with not wasting parts and saving bucks.

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I would put a fuel pressure gauge on your car.  You can put one on a 4 foot piece of hose and zip-tie it to the driver's wiper arm and watch it while you drive.  $10 dollars worth of stuff from Lowes, the gauge is in the pool supply section as a replacement for the pool's filter gauge.  Please do that before you spend $270.  There's a lot of folks that run an aftermarket pump without any problems.  My $.02 worth, I bought a new Bosch for $250 and there was nothing wrong with the original.  I had to put a potentiometer on the coolant sensor wire, $5 from Radio Shack to finally get mine to pull hard all the time.

 

It's all right here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

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Just reading this thread. I have been having possible fuel delivery issues and was thinking of replacing the Airtex pump with the 269 dollar pump. Does the Airtex pump have a inlet strainer? The car runs fine 95% of the time and then stalls. Thought it might be an issue with the pump not having a strainer or not be that great.

Tank had a couple small pin holes that might be causing an issue with moisture or air pick up. Holes were where the straps are located on the tank. Repairing the holes

Thoughts. I have another thread but this was extremely interesting and trying to get on board with not wasting parts and saving bucks.

It is imperative that your run a Filter ( Fram G3 I believe ) before the Airtex pump. These new style pumps are a Turbine style ( With Ceramic Turbine wheel )  and will pump out a lot more pressure and are a lot quieter than the old Roller Vane style.

 

However, they have much, much tighter clearances inside and will not tolerate dirt particles that a Roller Vane would just chew up and spit out. All documented on Airtex Technical site.

 

The strainers ( if any ) in tank are just to catch the coarse stuff. Same with any Inlet strainers in the pump. Particularly on these old Vintage cars, always run an additional Pre-filter before the electric fuel pump. 

 

Edit: I run an Airtex Universal pump ( Part #E8312 ) on my 1976 280Z and it is much quieter than my stock pump ( which had minimal wear but it leaked around the electrical O-Rings ). Works just fine and has a lot more volume and pressure capability than the stock pumps.

Edited by Chickenman

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Hi Guys,

I have a couple of old pretty sad original pumps. They all have problems in different areas. One is noisy and poor performance, the other is leaking around the terminal sealing mostly and a little all the way around the metal housing.

As you can see the parts are not all that interchangable for a number of reasons. Somewhere in the 280Z they changed over from Bosch to the JECS copy. The Japanese did a darn good job in copying it that you only discover it when you pull them apart and start measuring the different parts. There are some parts that will interchange like the inlet pieces, the rotor and rollers with the outer ring complete, but not as seperate parts. The inlet screens will not intrchange.

After MUCH research on the internet and parts books Ive found a lot od info on diferent car makers using the bosch pumps.

One clear easy way to to tell them apart is the terminal blocks. Black is Bosch and Blue is the JECS A24 000 00. I have the Bosch numbers, but not with me at the moment. There are other small things like philips head screws on the JeCS linet and blade heads on the Bosch. Not all bosch pumps have the part number on the back. I have one that does and ne that doesn't. All JECS seem to though.

A good, no a very good replacement is the Bosch and now I have the rare situation where I can get them for around $70 new in the box. Siteunseen, Ill gladly do you a favour a sell it to you for let say $150. Just joking of course. I just checked the prices over there in the US. WOW now thats a make up. I have seen some (rare occasions) go for €24 over here, thats like $30.

If someone needs one I can help find one for a good price plus the shipping. These pumps are made in the cheq republic anywhere else is a copy.

Chas

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There is a range of years of Ford F150 pickup trucks that use the Bosch pump.  For those wrecking yard scavengers.  $70 for new is a good deal though.  The yard charges about $30.

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I have a pressure gauge and it consistently reads 32psi.

I understood this to be acceptable.

Good to understand how the strainer and original pump works.

I will add the filter back in between tank and pump.

Thanks.

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Was researching fuel pumps and came across this thread, Very interesting. So I started googleing "Bosch 0580254984" and came across this pump. Here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Electrical-Fule-Pump-With-Install-Kits-for-Porsche-Volvo-Benz-450SEL-911-924-/322645466079?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

It looks identical to the Bosch but who knows. Has anyone tried one of these?

image.png

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