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1972 Float Adjustment ...


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3 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 @jalexquijano Did you look at any of the other plugs? It would be a good idea just to confirm the rest look OK. If they look good I'd just replace the cap, rotor and # 4 plug. I don't think I'd spray anything just yet. If five of the six plugs look good the problem is narrowed down to the cap, rotor or plug wire, assuming the compression is still good. Do you have access to an ohm meter?

Do you think i should take the distributor out and clean it, including the base and innards? Last time i took it out  to clean and reinstall it i had problems cranking the engine. I turned the key and when trying to crank i Heard a shotgun like sound explosión. Had to bring my mechanic so he could install it properly and the engine cranked immediately. At this stage i dont like messing with things that are not broken. Please advise if you recomend cleaning the innards of the distributor. The advance was tested with an air pressure pump 2 weeks ago and it worked fine.

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If you have a new cap and button, put them on.

I think you possible might not have a good CLICK when the wire meets the plug. Also make sure the tip is tight. I put dialectic grease on mine.

Good luck. Thats odd it burned so clean last week and now too look so sooty. Like Mark has said many times you should try swapping the wire to #4

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30 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

If you have a new cap and button, put them on.

I think you possible might not have a good CLICK when the wire meets the plug. Also make sure the tip is tight. I put dialectic grease on mine.

Good luck. Thats odd it burned so clean last week and now too look so sooty. Like Mark has said many times you should try swapping the wire to #4

I have never opened the distributor to oil the weights. Is this really necesary?

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1 hour ago, jalexquijano said:

I have never opened the distributor to oil the weights. Is this really necesary?

@jalexquijano DON"T TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT. Don't oil anything. For now, Just replace the distributor cap, rotor and #4 plug. I still want to know if any other plugs were sooty. If you used too much choke or left it on too long the the last time you warmed it up, it's likely that all the plugs look like #4.

  #1 Don't fix what ain't broke.

 #2 Check the other plugs.

 #3 Replace the Dist. cap, rotor and #4 if it's the only one that 's black.

 #4 Be sure that all the wires are fully inserted into the cap.

 #5 Drive it and report back.

 

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3 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

I have never opened the distributor to oil the weights. Is this really necesary?

Its not your distributor weights or anything else inside causing your #4 problem.

Maybe a bad plug wire but I think that cylinder will need another compression test.

You are now running on 5 cylinders with the looks of that plug.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎6‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 10:31 AM, 240260280 said:

Pulling choke will do that.

THis is correct. Anyway i cranked the car yesterday with the choke pulled to 3/4 for 45 seconds , stepped on the gas until it reached to 3000 rpm and noticed that the exhaust pipe stained the garage Wall with black oil. Is this common when the engine is cold?

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It's probably not oil. It is probably watery soot. My sons car does that sometimes when it's too rich and he revs it. Pull the choke to 3/4 and start it. Then push the choke down some but not enough to make the car stall. Let it warm up a few minutes. Don't rev the car while it's cold! When it warms up enough to rev with out acting up, drive it moderately until it warms up good...

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