Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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here you go..
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 8 replies
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It seems to me that when you stomp on the gas pedal, it takes a few seconds for the EFI to catch up to throttle opening wide or the RPMs. Is that about right? I think modern cars can react faster so you don't notice it, but when you are on the highway or a country two-lane road and you want to pass, having to wait 10 seconds (forever) can be scary, especially if you see a truck coming your way. Is there anything you can so with the Bosch L-Jet to help with that condition?
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 1 follower
- 33 replies
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280z 1975 I pulled the FI's and cleaned by running cleaner thru them while cycling. Put it all back together, at 1st no issue, then hard starting, have to throttle it to get it going. Once started no issue. Spark, check while cranking, all good. started disconnected ign to start fuel pressure, slow to come up then bleeds off fast. Has a new OE pump. get out some clamps, clamp the return line, no effect same thing slow to pressure then drops off fast when start returned to run (will not hold pressure) One more time this time get assistant to turn key to start while I prep to clamp the fuel in line (and the return line is still clamped). …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 3 followers
- 52 replies
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Recently bought a Z and am sorting out the issues. It runs albeit on the 3 rear cyclinders. New fuel pump, new NGK wires and plugs, distributor looks like it was replaced not long ago. Coil looks original (new MSD blaster in the mail). I know it's getting fuel, spark and air. I know all 6 injectors are functional. Just not all at the same time. When I crank it, it starts almost instantly, when I place my screw driver to each injector, only the rear bank makes the clicking. Removing any of the front 3 injector pig tails doesn't affect idle. When i place the rear 3 injector connections on the front 3, once again it starts and idles the same. Is…
Last reply by Joseph@TheZStore, -
- 2 followers
- 24 replies
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So I have been chasing a EFI issue with my '78 Z and found that the Fuel Pump Control Relay(pictured) is not testing as 'OK' per the FSM. Sad part is that they are NLA - even aftermarket. Furthermore, the part 'Shows up' all over the place(including eBay), but when you order they cancel because Standard Motor Products is no longer making them. When you search any of the numbers in the table below you get a hit, but come up short. So, my comrades, I am appealing to you all to see if you may have a good spare that you would sell or otherwise part with - I would sure appreciate it. I am also considering creating a 'New' solution using a couple of modern relays,…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
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This is on my 76 with stock EFI. When I remove the gas cap I get a rush of gas fumes coming out. How can I test my vapor canister? I did put a new filter on the bottom. Do vapor canisters go bad (eg, the charcoal inside)? I do have a new fuel pressure regulator on it and a new fuel pump. My newer vehicles don't build pressure or vacuum in the gas tank. Can someone explain how the vapor system works on these cars? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Zed Head, -
took the Z out, odd rough idle, that was new, start down the street, can't hold idle stalls out finally get it started and nurse it home. Pull the plugs super carbon fouled, cleaned them, try starting again very hard to start, would not idle then dies. fuel pressure check, 36 psi during cranking, so at least the FPR and fuel supply/returns are providing the correct static pressure. Spark looks good and strong. thinking it maybe a stuck open cold start, I remove it to see if it fires (should not its hot) it does not but the car runs fine with a massive air leak at the cold start hole. plug it up and the engine dies. So clearly its running rich. The only othe…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
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Here's a chart that I whipped up showing the resistance vs. temperature function for the temperature sensors for the 280Z EFI system. There are a couple values in the manuals at a few temperatures, but this fills in the gaps. Note that Bosch used the same sensor curve for both the air and water temp sensors, so this chart applies to both water and air: And for those of you who care about the theory, this chart was created using the Stienhart-Hart Equation with coefficients derived from data points in the manual. Stienhart-Hart: I did the chart in Degrees F because that's what I use, but if anyone wants this in Degrees C, let me know.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 13 replies
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I've been looking to replace the fuel hose(s) in the EFI Unit on my 76 Z. It still has the original braided hose and I wanted to retain the factory look. I located some on a classic Porsche site, that says it can be used for MFI. Thoughts?
Last reply by MattSaint, -
- 27 replies
- 5.5k views
think this will work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-to-3-45-Degree-Reducer-Silicone-Coupler-Black-Red-/130520963545?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e63a7d9d9&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true there are other sizes as well need to confirm the IDs on the AFM and TB.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
New Fuel Tank 1 2 3
by bhermes- 31 replies
- 5.1k views
Ok, after 3 years chasing my stalling issue, I am back to my initial assumption. I has always suspected the rust and condition of my fuel tank was the issue. I attempted to clean and coat the tank myself but the tank is in bad shape. I am going to have someone look at the tank one last time but then looking for a replacement. If anyone has one please let me know. Has anyone had an issue with hydro-locking? Or maybe just rust clogging fuel pump. Also it appears that one of my injectors is bad. Is there anything I should know when getting a new one. Thanks.
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
- 16 replies
- 6.6k views
1976 280z, stock system. Had some bogging at around 3000 rpm, adjusted the TVS. Checked plugs (which are new, only been run when test firing engine). I assume the best option will be to "GET A NEW INJECTOR", but I'm trying to avoid that right now... (I know I might have to eventually....) All the plugs looked the same except one, Cylinder #5 was brand new looking. Could be no spark, no fuel, or possibly being "steam cleaned" from a water (head gasket) leak. Checked spark, swapped plugs, wires, etc... SPARK IS GOOD TO ALL CYLINDERS. Tested in multiple ways. Did the screwdriver test. Verified all the other injectors have good "tapping" noise,…
Last reply by siteunseen,
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