1978 Z - Fuel Pump Control Relay

[ZCurves]

So I have been chasing a EFI issue with my '78 Z and found that the Fuel Pump Control Relay(pictured) is not testing as 'OK' per the FSM.  Sad part is that they are NLA - even aftermarket.   Furthermore, the part 'Shows up' all over the place(including eBay), but when you order they cancel because Standard Motor Products is no longer making them.  When you search any of the numbers in the table below you get a hit, but come up short.  So, my comrades, I am appealing to you all to see if you may have a good spare that you would sell or otherwise part with - I would sure appreciate it.

I am also considering creating a 'New' solution using a couple of modern relays, so any thoughts on that topic would be welcomed too.

Desc	OE Part Nos.	Alternative Part Nos.
Fuel Pump Control	2523079901, 2523189966	STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY102, BWD R3274, AIRTEX 1R1302, CARQUEST 561762, WELLS 19920, AC Delco E1786

[siteunseen]

Where is that located on your car? I've not noticed that on my '77 and wondering what years it comes on. I have access to a few junkyard 280s.

[wheee!]

Have you opened it up to see if it is repairable (corrosion, loose component etc)?

[ZCurves]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Where is that located on your car? I've not noticed that on my '77 and wondering what years it comes on. I have access to a few junkyard 280s.

On the '78 Zcar, this relay is located in the engine compartment on the passengers side by the battery.  It is under a black metal cover secured by four 10mm bolts (here is a pic I swiped from another member).   The one I am looking for is the big one on the left.  If the others look decent, you might grab those too!  I sure do appreciate anyone willing to help me out!  Thanks!

[ZCurves]

1 hour ago, wheee! said:

Have you opened it up to see if it is repairable (corrosion, loose component etc)?

Yes I did, and the coils look fine - no corrosion.  However, when I go through the test on the diagram from my original post, it fails on the third step.

[siteunseen]

Okay, I know why I haven't seen that, never been under that cover thank goodness.

They have some zxs and zs out there. Maybe someone can tell us what years have it? We're having some crappy weather this week so it'll give us some time to nail it down before I could get out there. Hopefully I can be some help. Good to hear from you Andrew, hadn't seen too much of your post lately and that's a good thing, no problems.

 

[wheee!]

46 minutes ago, ZCurves said:

Yes I did, and the coils look fine - no corrosion.  However, when I go through the test on the diagram from my original post, it fails on the third step.

Interesting. I am assuming you are getting an "open" condition ( no continuity) in both powered and unpowered states...

Can you post a picture of the opened relay?

[Zed Head]

Rockauto shows it as unavailable if you try to buy one but if you click on the part number it will show all of the cars that used it.  Looks like they show too many, but they also call it an AC compressor relay, so maybe it was used in two spots on some cars.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209934&parttype=3180&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1982%2BNISSAN%2B310%2B1.5L%2BL4%2BElectrical-Switch%2B%2526%252338%253B%2BRelay%2BA%252FC%2BCompressor%2BRelay&blanktemplate=true

[ZCurves]

14 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Can you post a picture of the opened relay?

Bada Bing!

[wheee!]

Canyou test the relay with it open? Apply voltage between + pin 1 and - pin 5, then ground pin 4 to pin 5 and see if the relay clicks over? If not, the coil is open and it may be as simple as a disconnected (thin) wire form the coil to the jumper wire on the coil....

...or it could be a broken wire in the coil that is unrepairable...

 

also check the contacts on the relay if it is clicking over but not passing current. Could just be dirty contacts too...

[ZCurves]

Thanks, I'll take a closer look.

[wheee!]

If you have a good multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the coil too. Depending on the length of wire etc, it should be approximately between 1.8 and 11 ohms. YMMV