Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,551 topics in this forum
-
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
I was going over my engine, (a stock L28) and I noticed that the vacuum hose for the dstributor was a mess of plastic Tees and old, crumbly hose pieces. The vacuum hose for the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) wasn't much better. I know that the distributor needs to be connected to a vacuum source from the trottle area, ( i.e., to one of the vacuum ports on the BCDD) but I couldn't find any information to describe where the FPR should be connected. The FPR was connected to a vacuum port on the intake plenum, which didn't have much vacuum on it. Are there any other available vacuum sources on the trottle section, besides the BCDD? Just putting your finger over the ope…
Last reply by chiefmd, -
-
- 9 replies
- 2k views
my f54/p79 setup in my 240z never made a peep on the valve train....until today. I took it on a spirited run in the country with some pulls to 6 grand. when i got home i had some ticking going on. It actually only sounds like one or maybe two. Its not that bad and you can't really hear it over the fan unless you in the engine bay and listen. I have certainly heard worse sewing machine hondas in my day. Should i attempt to adjust or just roll with it?
Last reply by yetterben, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
After pulling the head for top end work I found only one head gasket ferrule,(the little hollow tube doo-hickey that helps orient and hold the gasket in place while you install the head). My question is, how many are there supposed to be? 2/3/4? or only one. And if there are more than one where are they placed. the one that is in mine is in the front across from the fuel pump mount, and where in the world would I find some more if necessary? Thanks, H Houghton
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
replaced mustche bushings and now have a rear end whine noise..please help
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
I recently purchased a 1977 280Z EFI in auto, I have purchased a stage 3 cam from motor sports auto, in addition to a K&N air filter, headers, big throat throttle body, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, Bosch plugs along with wires and a timing kit. My first question is what improvements am I looking to receive with these tweaks, just averages from those of you who have done this and, is there anything else I can do to improve hp without going turbo or adding a supercharger? The ultimate goal is hp, handling and engine longevity. I also have rear disk brakes, anti sway and strut bars already installed. I am new to this so any help would be greatly appreciated. Than…
Last reply by Remmi3817, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 16k views
I've searched through dozens of threads on several sites and hundreds of listings on ebay and classified adds and conclude that the Subaru WRX LSD r180 differential might be an option for the 240z. I understand that the spline count is 27 (I believe) on the subie and 25 on the z, nor does the flange on the subie match the Z. Beta motorsports will make a pair of stubs that will "clip" into the nissan 200sx r180 differential and match the 4 bolt 240z half shafts. But they ask for 3 stubs from you to modify. I believe the 200sx diff is a 25 spline and not an LSD meaning you would have to install your own LSD. Subaru WRX r180 diff is a 27 spline w/snap in stubs and can be pur…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 17 replies
- 7k views
I will assume that the factory shifter will wear out sometime, so I am wondering if there are any aftermarket shifters ( like Hurst or B&M) that would work properly with the Jatco 3N71B? thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 15 replies
- 2.9k views
as some of yall know, i overheated my 76 280 recently, and my machine shop tells me that the head is shot. now i'm shopping around for a new one, and i'm a little confused. my head is an N42. i've been led to believe that an N47 will fit my year and model too. what is the significance of these codes? what heads will fit my car? i'm also a little concerned about my block. the cylinders have some striation in them, and though my nail doesn't catch on them when i run my finger around a cylinder, it doesn't feel too smooth. i can't really afford to get them bored, but i don't want to get everything back together again to find out that the block needs service. should i be conc…
Last reply by saridout, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
I have to rebuild an engine and I have some decisions to make. I have a rather early 1970 240Z engine (it's a spare that I'm using as the foundation of my rebuild). I am on a 'no money' budget of course, who isn't these days. With that said, I want the most bang for my buck and am not out to build a monster engine...that will come later when I have the money to throw at an engine. This engine has an E31 block and E31 head. I can do a stock rebuild on this and call it a day. Or I can pick up an N42 block locally for $50 (includes crank, pistons, rods all disassembled) and build from there. The condition of any of these parts is a question mark. They may be fine,…
Last reply by texasz, -
- 10 replies
- 3.4k views
Getting hot here lately and want to have a constant fresh fuel supply. Was thinking about plumbing a return line in. Whats the best way to go about this? anyone have pics? Also what are people doing with the overflow lines with itgs air cleaners and such. Dont like the idea of gas possibly coming out on the headers. Currently there is two lines teed together run in front of the radiator if it where to overflow.
Last reply by Arne, -
- 5 replies
- 1k views
I am parting out a 240z with a good motor. A fellow has asked if it will work in his 280z using the 280z fuel injection setup. I don't see why not but I certainly do not know for sure. Any thoughts? Leonard
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 3 replies
- 861 views
OK, so I did a valve job to fix a bent valve, and am seeing something weird- lower, but more even compression across all the cylinders. Before I was seeing 175 +/- 5 psi, now I am seeing 155-160. 2 ideas- valve timing is slightly advanced (2 deg on the cam), maybe due to new timing chain guide which is giving a slight inward curve to the tight side of the chain. My other thought was could the carbon buildup on the head and pistons have raised the comp by 15psi? It didn't look that bad, but I don't have much experience to judge by. Obviously its all cleaned up now after. Head was milled 0.003". Valve lash are all properly adjusted, wipe pattern double checked and OK, cam O…
Last reply by Mn_Z_Man,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Yarb
