My L28 and transmission are finally ready

[1970Datsun240z]

Hi!

My dad and I have been putting a ton of work into this engine and transmission, and it's finally ready! Except that I have to wait for my transmission mount I ordered and it's taking forever! But if I've waited this long I can wait a little longer I guess

So I just wanted to know what you guys thought of it. Any pointers on putting it in? I have a cherry picker that I'm planning on using to drop it in. I'm also going to take off the carbs and valve cover so I don't risk hitting them. I'm going to put in an electronic fuel pump instead of the mechanical one so that's why there is a homemade plate where the old fuel pump should go. I'm going to put it back near the gas tank. Also, my dad and I made a homemade pipe to go to my heater instead to the intakes as well because we're taking off all the smog.

I have quite a bit of pictures so if you want more I can post them! If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them

Thanks!

John

[=Enigma=]

Interesting color scheme you've got going on there. It's different and I think I like it, assuming you are going to paint the car a in similar scheme. If you're truly commited to this, as it appears you are, I recommend painting the carbs, alternator and dizzy white as well, and the starter in blue. Finally, I think the oil pump would look better in blue, and while you're at it you may as well hit the exhaust manifold in hi-temp white too. Keep up the good work and get those fasteners plated or they'll be rusted over in no time.

[Carl Beck]

I'd put the engine in - after the car is painted if at all possible. Otherwise, you'll end up with overspary all over the engine and engine compartment, which will just cause a lot of un-necessary work later.

There is LOTS of room in the engine bay - and it is very easy to drop an L24 in there without hitting anything as long as you have a couple of people doing the install.

I also agree with Adam - plate or paint all the bolts/nuts - as they will develop surface rust quickly.

I take it that you do not plan on running a heater/defroster? Or do you plan to make some other sort of "T" for the heater/defroster take off?

Overall it looks like you've done a pretty good job.. now just take your time as you go forward with the project.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[1970Datsun240z]

Thanks guys!

Maybe I will get the car painted before I put the engine in. I didn't realize that it would be easier to do it that way. Yes, I am going to paint the car in a similar way

I'll look into getting my bolts/nuts plated or I'll paint them. That sounds like a good idea. And maybe I'll paint the rest of the parts on there that aren't painted.

The pipe we made is going to the heater not the carbs. So we aren't going to make a "T" for it. Is this going to cause a problem for me??

Thanks for the info! :classic:

John

[Carl Beck]

Hi John:

If you plan to drive the car in the winter, or in the mountains - I'd say that not having hot water going through the carb.'s could cause a problem. With the right temp. / humidity mix, you can wind up with carb.'s icing up, and/or very poor air/fuel mixtures. Not to mention prolonged warm-up times before the engine starts to run properly. In Idaho I would not recommend elimination of the water flow through the manifold.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[1970Datsun240z]

Hi Carl,

Thanks for the advice We've heard more horror stories about fuel vapor lock than icing up. I'm also not really going to be driving it in the winter at all. So we're going to try not running the hot water through the intakes first, and if that doesn't work, we'll put it the way it was originally.

Thanks!

John

[Zs-ondabrain]

Looks great but what color is the car gonna be?

Also, I have one of those weird questions and comments for ya.......

Your Vin is in the 12,000's but your Z is a 70???

I've never heard of a 12K vin 70' 240Z. Unless the original Dealer registered it as a 70', knowing it was 71' Your build date is in Dec? I'll almost bet. I mention all this cause I used to have HLS30-12085 and it was built in Dec of 70 and was definately a 71' I don't think there were any 70's past the 10,000 vin mark.

Anyone else find that weird? Carl? Any comments.

Dave

Edited July 15, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain

[Carl Beck]

Hi Dave:

All the 12xxx VIN cars I have collected info on - have build dates of 10/70. The Series I cars ended production in 01/70 with VIN's in the 20xxx range. Then the Series II cars started production in 01/70 with VIN's in the 21xxx range.

The last car sold and registered/titled as a 1970 240Z here in North America - that has been reported so far - is a 13,xxx car with a build date of 11/70.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[1970Datsun240z]

Hi Dave,

The color of my z will be white with two blue stripes. It's still a maybe on the stripes though, but definitely white.

My car was built in 10/70. It could be a '71 but I have no title. The guy I bought it from called it a '70 and he, I guess, lost the title. So I have just called it a 1970. Also in the BD catalogs it says that from Chassis number 000013-21000 are 1970's but I'm not sure how correct that is. So I really don't know.

Thanks!

John

[Zs-ondabrain]

I just saw my mistake, I meant 10/70. but it was always my understanding that the 70's only went as far as 10,000 or somewhere close to that. And I could have sworn I read that on your site Carl. But you guys know me, my brain is all over the place.

I now see where I goofed, I mixed up the 12 on the vin with the 12 build date. Real sorry, been a real looong week.

My 10/70 was registered as a 71' but that could have been a dealer thing too. They used to sell 70's as 71's to get the marked up price out of customers. Oh well. just asking. And this is how we learn, right?

Dave

Edited July 15, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain

[1970Datsun240z]

Hey Dave,

You brought up a really good question that I've been pondering. And I know what a real loooong week feels like! So don't worry about it. And yes, this is how we learn.

John