Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,551 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
- 985 views
I reinstalled my front engine cover while the engine was out of the car. I used the gaskets that came in an L24 gasket set. Now that the engine is in the car, of course I have a leaks at the top of the cover where it meets the head. I don't know what I did wrong, so I don't know what to do different this time around. Any tips, tricks, or insights would be appreciated. Are gaskets preferred to RTV? Man, I hate doing things twice!
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
-
- 3 followers
- 70 replies
- 2.7k views
New day, new saga. I put in a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The master cylinder and slave cylinder are also new. When I put the car into gear, with engine not running, and depress the clutch, I cannot roll the car. Apparently, the clutch is not disengaging. I adjusted the slave cylinder quite a bit also. What am I missing? Attached is a video of the slave cylinder in action. IMG_1719.mov
Last reply by adivin, -
- 3 followers
- 2 replies
- 481 views
What is the recommended rear diff oil wt for warmer climates? the 75W used in most cars here in CA seems to be more towards colder side of the spectrum based on manual. Anyone here in CA using 85W?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 7 followers
- 118 replies
- 6.6k views
Greeting folks, I believe my 5-speed transmission is version FS5W71B as it has 2 prongs for the exhaust mounts. I usually do a 40 miles drive on the weekend. Yesterday, when I shift into 2nd gear, I felt hard "jolt" as if i ran over the cow or hit a big rock under the oil pant. I can definitely felt that something is wrong with the transmission. I'm not sure if I describe what I felt correctly ... normally, if the clutch pedal is not depressed, the transmission connects to the flywheel directly, you felt/and hear the gentle sound like when you biking the bike down hill without you pedal-ling it, the sound from the gear make a small, pleasant sound…
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi Guys, so i know this has been discussed a gazillion times. I have been running DRIVEN 10W-40 Conventional and so far so good. It has great wear protection/ZDDP. Just wondering how many are running 20W-50? Temp in CA in summer gets over 80F routinely and I was thinking to upgrade to the below? what do you guys think? https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497797-gp-1-20w-50-synthetic-blend-high-performance-oil.html
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 followers
- 17 replies
- 1k views
Hi guys, Has anyone tried this part? or any other alternative? I think there is a similar GM valve as well which I can share later (cannot find it at the moment...) https://www.ebay.com/itm/263537911654
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
- 2.2k views
Good day, for some time I am trying to understand a transmission noise that is bothering me. As you can hear in the video the gearknob is transmitting some buzzing noise which can be altered by holding the hand in front of the knob to act like a kind of sound box. You can best hear it toward the end of the video. I read about the buzzing problem related to worn gearstick bushing and ordered a new set of oem bushings, cup and pin. After the change the noise persisted I also changed the old after market wood knob to an oem rubber one. Also no change. Next step was to check for wear marks on the stick (read it in some other post). I found some small o…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
- 12.8k views
Hi all, This weekend I finally got around to tracking down that last vacuum leak -- in the pneumatics of the HVAC control apparatus. (I had previously identified a leak through the vacuum line leading through the firewall from the vacuum solenoids or "magnet valves" -- righthand/passenger side of hood compartment.) The larger source of the leak was immediately apparent. In their infinite wisdom, Nissan put a splice in the vacuum line in the righthand/passenger dash area. It's shown in the factory service manual diagrams. It seems like that's just more to go wrong, but I'm sure there was an assembly line rationale behind the splice. In my own case, I had three splices…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 650 views
Hello mates I'm sure this has been discussed but my searching abilities are kind of useless today - its been a long weekend - but has anyone used the Z car depot electric fan shroud and fans for a 280z? Do you like it or do you prefer running other fans/fan combos? Thank you all Jan
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 5 followers
- 10 replies
- 884 views
Today, I had to reset my timing after removing the distributor yesterday to test of my ignition unit. While at it I tested my engine intake vacuum which was perfect so no leaks. Wanted to confirm that before putting in my rebuild brake booster. I also replaced my oil pressure sending unit after driving it last week. Pressure seemed low sometimes. I replaced it because I thought maybe it was defective (was a new unit). The replacement is made by Beck Arnley. I still feel pressure is lower that I think is right but maybe I’m wrong. I have a new oil pump (not turbo version) which I probably should have used. BTW, I opened the oil cap for a peek at idle and I ca…
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 487 views
Hello... I've been dealing/troubleshooting a stumble issue at 3500-4000 RPM and above and hoping to get some suggestions for where to go next. Here's a little history on my setup: Original L24 engine bored .30 over Triple Weber DCOE 40 Carbs (currently running 55 idle jets, 135 main jets, and F11 emulsion tubes) Electric fuel pump with regulator set to 5 psi Pertronix Electronic Ignition with Flamethrower Coil (bypassing the ballast resistor) NGK Iridium Plugs (gapped to .40) Vacuum Advance NOT Connected Timing is retarded at the (stock) distributor The issue mainly seems to occur when it's hot outside and the car is warm…
Last reply by eastcoastz, -
- 3 followers
- 21 replies
- 1.6k views
Hey guys, I have a 1978 Datsun 280z, Currently running an N42 Block with a rebuilt E88 head from a 260z (least desirable from what I hear but was all I could find at the time), I have triple weber dcoe 40s and headers from topendperformance. I also have an MSD ignition 6AL and 280zx Dizzy and a rebuilt 5 speed with the longer gear rations I am also running a felpro 1.2mm head gasket which has 89mm bores (My L28 bores are 86mm). Also have a lightweight flywheel to add to all this. I have had this setup for almost 2 years now and never touched the block in the 5 years I have owned the car. The car also weighs a surprising 2460lbs As of right now my compression is pretty low…
Last reply by Zed Head,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.