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A buyer mght assume that it came "out of the factory" in red. If "out of the factory" is meaningless then your point is valid. Changing the sticker removes a significant piece of provenance. If provenance is unimportant then your point is valid. Why not leave the green color code sticker? If provenance is unimportant then changing anything on the car is "okay". Replica body panels, paint, engine (just grind and re"stamp" the numbers on the engine or have alternate ID plates created), etc. Originality doesn't matter. Just have alternates created of all of the things that collectors usually inspect for originality. Create an alternative reality Z car. Sorry D.C.

I've got a hunch - just a feeling in my bones - that the paint is not 'Amino Alkyd Enamel' either. "False advertising"? Seriously? The repro paint sticker matches the re-paint and colour change. Do you think they should have used a sticker for the original green instead? Some of the nitpicking here is beyond parody. Not immune to the occasional malapropism, however.

After seeing your battery upgrade you have the 3rd white/blue early car that I have seen. Eiji had one in Atlanta, a guy that lives not too far from me has one dismantled in his garage and even asked me about helping to put it back together but he's been in bad health and I can't get in touch with him. That's one of my favorite color combinations.

No, that's the material it was printed on. Why would you offer a product that is CLEARLY - no pun intended - not accurate? But more to the point, why would such a product be offered for sale? Another reflection - yes, pun intended - of the immunity of our hobby.

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I also made a set of battery cables and swapped out the ratchet strap hold-down for something a little more appropriate. I know it loses some of that road-kill character, but it's much cleaner now. Here's what I started with: And here's what I got now: And I included the ground wire directly from the battery to the firewall now. Didn't have this before:

I swapped out the 160 thermostat for a 180, and here's where the gauge stabilized. Higher than the 160 thermostat (duh), but still lower than I was running with NO thermostat and the old questionable radiator. Good deal! Here's where I am now:

I reported the post above, but still not sure the report function is working. There are other bots I've reported that are not yet nuked so I'm not sure if I'm doing this right.

Hey @Mike , Here's another bot. They are still multiplying.

I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

I have recently fallen in love (metaphorically) with a smoke machine lately. Very good at finding leaks. Used it on gas tanks…. Mine has an internal compressor that build lots of psi in the system of choice. Reasonable affordable. Uses mineral oil. Bit hard to see small amounts of leaking smoke, have to use a bright light and lots of different viewing angles, it doesn’t make the huge volumes of dense smoke I expected, but still very effective. I also envisioned using a thermal imaging camera at the same time to show a visual map of the leak location, will report on that some day.

Hydrocarbon sniffers can be surprisingly effective across different systems, and sometimes combining them with a simple soap test helps confirm the source faster. Hope you track it down soon.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

Yes, that plastic piece is a travel stop, and you should really have one in there. If that stop is missing, the lever travel could be too much and the rear adjustment system may not work properly.

Looks like a travel stop?

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

It's former greenness is "clear" now. Seller posted a before picture.

Pretty sure I know the answer, but for confirmation's sake, I'll ask. First, the set-up. Just got a new Precision complete weatherstrip kit for my 1972 240Z. The door strips in the kit are quite a bit different from the OEM ones in that they have a "gripper" channel (see Photo 1) whereas the OEM strips have but a thin U-channel (see Photo 2). I believe this was a design change made for the 280Z. Both of these are meant to attach to the metal weld and quarter window flanges around the door openings. The OEM strip's grip on the flanges is then reinforced with a stiff U-channel (Photo 3) that covers all but a small section of flange along the bottom of the door opening where the inner scuff plate does the job In his book "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-car", author Wick Humble said (page 135) that the factory's 280Z-style weatherstrip comes preloaded with a "non-hardening adhesive/sealant in the "U" of the weld flange trim that was not previously specified." Clearly, the strips I got from Precision do not have such a preloaded material So, my question to you fine folks is this: Should I apply some kind of adhesive/sealant in the U-channel and, if so, what would you recommend? I'm already using 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on the rest of the car that needs such a material.

I saw that too...

I'm working on a knowledge post about the S30's automatic transmissions, and for that, I tried to update my document collection. Since I don't have any Auto transmission and don't plant to install one ever, it was obviously never a priority. So recently a few things arrived again from all over the world. Some of them are pretty cool and rare: First, a set of original Nissan Japan 3N71B Auto transmission service manuals from 1971 and 1973. They're not specific to this car, but they have some good general information about that specific transmission. I also got the English version of the earlier 3N71A transmission manual. This time specific for the 240Z. Nothing crazy inside, but good for some reference data if you're a nerd like me. Speaking of Automatic transmissions. I got this cool troubleshooting guide slider, which was issued for both the A and B transmissions by Nissan USA in 1972: The delivery also included some Mikuni triple carb-setup parts: And i also came across this Mikuni PH level gauge for 2 bucks, so I had to get it: It even came with a nice little operation manual leaflet and padded pouch: Then I also got this nice booklet called "Z-car" by driver magazine JP. It's basically a collection of all their S30-related publications from their monthly magazine. I still have to read through all of it, but so far it has some very nice stories, including the original designers of the car. The only downside so far is the overload of praise for Mr. K as the sole man behind the Z, which is of course nonsense. But as said, i only read two pages so far. Speaking of documents. I made a copy of that original Nissalco 240Z special service toolbox manual, as it was falling apart. And I have to say it turned out pretty good for my first attempt at something like this. I picked up a load of tool-related things yesterday and have a lot of pending orders. so stay tuned for another update soon.

BTW.. if you really want to put some fuel into a tank of anything/any machine, i use the fuel for 2 and 4 cycle engines used in gardening machines.. they stay good a long time, are more expensive but work the best and keep things not getting clogged up with varnish! The fuel out of the tank i put in the car that i'm driving at that time. (Often the 240z as it's used round the clock and also can run on bad fuel or old fuel.. i always say if i pee in the tank he will probably drive on that as well! 🤣 )

The project farm guy... YES, he's a good guy, always testing stuff BUT.. I can't listen to him for more than a few minutes.. He talks much TOOOO EXITED!! he shouts it out!!! (And keeps on shouting!) Do you know where i can listen to forever??? Tyrrell's classic workshop, Iain can speak to me for hours, and i'm still listening after hours! The P.F.Guy.. i would kill myself after 15 minutes, so he could learn A LOT of the way Iain speaks on youtube! Take a look at his work he's really good! Tyrrell's Classic Workshop - YouTube

Stumbled across an interesting video about zinc. The answer is at about 11:00.