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Refer to the figure below (taken from the FSM), which shows how the inner and outer rockers and the floor pan come together. The arrow on the outboard flange of the floor pan shows how the flange aligns with the inner rocker. Note the horizontal rib (with the 'hockey stick' shape at the forward end) that's pressed into Inner Rocker ('Inner Sill). The top of the Floor Pan's outboard flange (designated in the figure by the small black circle) should align with the lower edge of the rib. The line of spot welds that joins floor pan to inner rocker sits about halfway up the floor pan's outboard flange (see photo).

That's not one of my paint color # decals - too shiny.

Thanks for reminding me, Alan.

This is the engine fire-up test section of Nissan's main Yokohama plant and the engines shown are non-Z variants. It is not the Nissan Shatai plant at Hiratsuka, which put together the S30-series Zs.

That is correct

So is this false advertising? Implies that the original color is red. I think that you meant 93

Just read the BAT ad for the red series 1. It is interesting that they now dont mention the colour change from green to red as was mentioned in the Hagerty Marketplace ad. The only indication is shown in listing photograph 98 of an old invoice dated 1970 something which mentions the colour of the car as green. As zspert mentioned earlier the colour change may be a factor hurting the price of this one.

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

I plan on making a driving video just for the sound ! I installed these 75mm stacks from TTT. Their ad seemed humorous about scaring the guy in front of you at the track -BUT-these things sound glorious! Never driven a Datsun race car , but the only thing missing is an open header -lol. OMG they sound good. I hope a video will capture the sound correctly. About everyone I've taken a ride have been blown away.

Ok gang - after it sitting for another few weeks I started it with great difficulty, but after it started, it ran great. I was curious so I looked under the car and the filter between the tank and the pump's gas was a cloudy yellow. I read online that it is the gas and water separating - could that have rusted the pump and I broke it free? If the rollers are stainless steel/aluminum like @Zed Head said, maybe it was crystalized fuel? The cloudy yellow fuel is confusing though. As a side note, I'd drain the tank but it is quite literally full and I don't know where to get rid of that much fuel, so I'll continue driving it and add gas when it gets down to the quarterish mark. With that and the cloudy yellow fuel in the pre-pump filter in mind, would adding Heet to the tank help? I added fuel stabilizer a few weeks ago and ran it for about 30 minutes, but the fuel is already fouling so I don't think that will do all that much.

So, Trying to go on my weak short term memory, How would you service the wiper motor etc? You have to basically remove the fenders?

You meant N47 =MN47

This Cowel only had screws that were accessable from under the hood then had tabs that were held inplace with some rubber inserts... besides the welded edges to the fender. lol

The cowl panel should not be removable with fenders on. There is a flange on either end with two large screws threaded into the body. Those screws are under the fenders

Success! I should be able to salvage the fender and cowel.

I would also measure charging voltage with the engine running. Maybe you are over-charging. At higher than idle RPM, where max output would be high. "Possible causes are: Faulty charging system (stuck or shorted regulator/alternator)"

RE white 73 - can't say positively but it doesn't appear to have a V-3 kit. Also, whoever replaced the gas tank vent hoses cheaped it out by reusing those cracked vent hose boots. I just hope!!! that the replacement hoses are speced for use with gas/gas fumes. The first 73 that the dealer I was working for in 73 was sold to a Redskins player as a promotion. Got towed back two nights in a row. Too long a story for this venue but the V-3 kit resulted directly from that episode.

Where did the floor pan lip weld. My original was over the groove and the groove was filled with a black material. Does it weld to the bottom lip of the groove?

$35k with 20 bids; passed in.

What did it bid to on Hagerty?

What a clever little piece! Never heard of that either

This is the one I posted several weeks ago advertised on Hagerty Marketplace. Was passed in.

There are some clips that go on the cowl to protect the body. Similar to the 240z but a different part number. Can't even find a picture of those datsun 66312-A4900 A good glovebox A dome light for the cargo area of the wagon. They are different than the center domelight. I know I saw one for sale somewhere not that long ago but can't find it now Thanks, Charles

I may have inadvertently covered up that wire when I re-wrapped all my harnesses several years ago (what a FUN time that was). In any case, I've decided to go with a fuse tap in the main fuse box on the 20 A FLASHER fuse, which is the only circuit in the box that is KEY-ON activated. Will use a 10 A fuse for my Retrosound Motor 4 radio, Vintage Air HVAC controller and Valentine One radar detector. Frankly, until yesterday I didn't know such a thing as a fuse tap existed. Ran across it when searching online how to hard-wire my radar detector. Really happy now that I swapped the OEM fuse box for an ATO-style one from Motorsport Auto.

Never mind. Just my poor memory. They're out there. Blue on blue seems uncommon though.