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Very nice. (I'm also happy that you don't have any body side molding...) Could be just camera, but if you look at the two pictures of silver Z's you'll notice the slight difference in "tone". Not to fault anyone or anything. Two different painters can use silver metallic from the exact same can, and spray two slightly but noticeably different "colors". With silver, the flake is usually the majority of the color, and how the flake settles on the part will make a difference. As will the amount of material applied and the primer or sealer used underneath.

Not without knowing how your mechanic rewired your Z. Post pictures of the coil and ballast resistor wiring and the wiring coming back through the radiator core support to the coil and ballast. Although not uncommon at the time, Nissan used a Tach and wiring method not used in the later Z's - only the 240's. To make the Tach operate, the wiring starts at the ignition switch and winds all the way to the ballast resistor (a Black/White wire). From there they use a Green/White wire to go BACK to the tachometer, through a loop (stupidly simplistic explanation), and then BACK to the "+" side of the coil with ANOTHER Black/White wire. IF your mechanic omitted any of that, changed any of that, your tachometer will definitely NOT work... Your tachometer "reads" the amount of electrical current going to the coil to operate and in it's stock configuration it needed to go through the ballast before going to the tachometer and before finally powering the coil... If he just powered the coil, tach is dead. (Three wires here in stock config: 2 B/W, 1 G/W. If all are disconnected, the one B/W that has Battery Voltage when the ignition switch is in the ON position is initially attached to one side of the ballast resistor, the G/W is attached to the other side of the ballast resistor. That wire returns to the tach. From the tach the SECOND B/W wire goes to the "+" coil terminal. You can attach that FIRST B/W to the "+" coil terminal and the engine will run, but you've then bypassed the wiring to the tachometer.)

That's a nice color and wheel combination u got there.....

Silver is tough paint to spray evenly - even tougher to match ("even tougher" I said... nearly impossible). You want someone with a good deal of experience spraying silver metallic and that's not generally cheap. We always had very good luck with our supplier (Sherman Williams Automotive) and Datsun colors - what they had was very close to factory. I think we shot three silver Z's. Datsun metallic base paint is fairly inexpensive (for paint) and fairly consistent in price. It's the clear and hardener that will have a great deal of price variation. Be forewarned that cheap clear usually means greater LABOR cost or settling for a poorer outcome. Each painter you talk to will have a preference for the clear they use and they will have a reason they do so. If you go against their preference don't be surprised by additional labor or cost to get the clear looking the way you want it to. And please don't argue with the guy - after he's sprayed the paint you told him to. (Here in Phoenix our cost of just the final materials (sealer, base coat, clearcoat) of the brands we prefer would be just over $1,000 (using a very good clear but by no means the most expensive) and not talking of labor, fillers, or primers. We got a pretty good discount - and a painters discount may or may not be passed on to you. Paint cost is the very cheapest part of the job.) If you want the silver "to pop", spray dark sealer under the base. If you use a lighter sealer the silver metallic will look "washed out" and will not have as much character, For the most part paint IS NOT opaque. Underlying colors will have a visual effect - subtle but definitely noticeable. I personally despise masking around weather strip and trim. It may look acceptable at first but will eventually present a myriad of issues. Early on, we did one at a customers request and immediately afterwards made it a policy to NEVER do it again. You think you may be saving on labor cost to mask rather than remove but in reality labor saving is minute and the result is poor. We had several Z's come to the shop years after a "masked trim and weather strip" spray looking needlessly shabby. Pull the windows and trim and get paint underneath all the gaskets, trim, and weather strip. My last piece of advice - if you can't afford what the experienced painter quotes you just don't do it - don't look for a cheap quote. And, with a Z, you CANNOT hold him to an initial ESTIMATE (unless he doubles up). There are WAY to many unseen things that may pop up. (I said "MAY pop up"... Sigh... I can't remember a single Z in our shop that didn't have surprises unknown to the owner AND to us!) Oh,, ya,, we shot that. VVV

I had a similar experience with some repop braided hoses in that the braided sleeve was very difficult to keep in place while working the clamps...then as a result some started to fray.

No marks to be found - there is a strong smell of Chlorine though.

I think he's talking about the bend in the wiper arm.

ECCS is what Nissan called the computer for the ZX's. The 280Z's used an ECU. He has a 1978 280Z. At best you could correct people for adding the E. Electronic or electrical control unit.

Are there any witness marks where the cover sat? Residual dust patterns? UV light bleaching?

Interesting. FWIW, my 1/70 and 7/70, both have no cutouts. I'm quite sure that my 7/70 has the original one, At least since 1978 but I'm not so sure about my 1/70 as I've only owned it for a year.

Looks to be the same, although I have never had the Subaru one in my hand. Here is a write up on the two. JDMjunkies.ch240Z: Subaru R180 LSD Diff swap Parts - JDMjunkies.chSo, with the recent progress on the chassis and body, i thought it’s time to kickstart some long-pending projects. One thing i had in mind for a while was to fix the differntial. It was not really bro

Does anyone know if the Subaru R180 diff cover is the same as the Nissan R180 cover?

@Captain Obvious What is the build date of your car? Is your map light in the dash hooded? I ask because there are a couple of us with pre HLS30-21000 that have hooded map lights. The hooded map light is one of the things that Datsun stated would be updated for the 21000+ cars.

Who is the manufacturer / seller of the braided hoses you referenced above? Thanks, Keith

Not in the current climate. See my comment above.

Looks to me like nearly every part of that car was touched during a restoration. I would think, even with current valuations for 240z's being lower than their peak, this car would be worth more than $70k.

Greetings and welcome to the group, HLS30-365101. Some pages ago, we were discussing the quality control checklist. At the urging of SpeedRoo, I dug through my files to find my copy of the "240Z Restoration Program Quality Control Checklist". The checklist I have is some 40 pages with an introduction overview page and 20 or so pages of procedure descriptions organized by component with columns for notes, sign-off and date. For instance; under the brake / clutch / hydraulic component, one of the procedures is "All rubber brake hoses: replace" and in the notes column it says; "Use DOT 3 brake fluid". During the restoration program there were two final inspections and four inspection sign-off points during various stages of the restoration process. Of note to our Plating conversation; checklist item "All steel brake lines: check for kinks, condition of flared ends", notes "Cad plate all brake lines possible. Replace any corroded lines." Attachment D of the checklist is a two page copy of Wick Humble's book; "How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car" discussing fasteners, everything about fasteners from engineering standards to thread pitch and sizes. From Attachment D; "How about the fastener's finish? The manufacturer plated every metal fastener...on the Z car, it is predominantly what platers call yellow zinc, that multi-tinted golden finish used on most bolts and nuts exposed to the elements. Plain natural-colored zinc is also used on some parts."

Thanks for the pic. Confirms my suspiscions. Memory says I took the one without the cut-outs off the OG. But then I put it in a box with the other one (with the cut-outs) and didn't label anything first. Duh. It seems the fuse covers that don't have the cut-outs are slightly later. They made a lot of changes in the fall of 1970, and subtle changes to the fuse block cover seems to be another one of the multitude of small changes they made. Thanks again! ☺️

Hi Charles…..Thanks, no, I bought the foam from Resurrected Classics, the seat covers from Mike at Banzai Motorworks and had a good upholstery shop put them together. Some things I leave to professionals 🤑

It was "bid too" $35K with 20 bids. It was NOT Sold For $35K as the reserve was not met.

Repairing a fuel injected car can be a pain in th A*se..😭 I would before doing anything to all the sensors in the system advice to FIRST do a compression test on the engine so you KNOW that the engine is mechanicaly in good order! Very important as with the electronics on these cars many things can go wrong. (Buy a good compression meter not expensive.) Then also check every vacuum line and all the rubber hoses in the inlet system.. a small leak will throw the systems ECCS* (NOT A ECU, how many times do i have to say this... sorry.. anyhow..) the ECCS* get complete faulty readings when there is a air leak even a smallest one will ruin how the engine will run. Also, Cleaning the electric contact with a good contactcleaner, like they use in boating is a good one look it up! Cleaning contacts can be a temporary thing when you do it with a nail file, i would be very careful with those.. (At first the contacts will work but later on they will fail if they were silver or gold contacts.) A lot of contacts have golden or silver contact points.. Golden contacts should really be cleaned with contact cleaner (or alcohol) as also silver contacts (But not necessarily on silver) @Yarb ) Copper contacts can be cleaned up with a small (nail) file without a problem.) As a (ex) electronics guy i also know in audio there were a LOT of silver contacts and.. not many people i think know this: Oxidized silver conducts electricity even better than silver itself! Really! So cleaning the silver-plated contacts is completely unnecessary and harmful, because you're making the silver layer even thinner. Again, the conductivity of rusted (black!) silver is BETTER than of silver itself! Further, as we all know gold does not rust so that is not a problem, clean it with alcohol and a cotton swab.

Here's the fuse block Cover from my 12/70 car 17486.

Today's question... I've got two fuse block covers. Which is the correct one for the early cars? This one has cut-outs on both top and bottom: While the other one does not: I have a guess, but am looking for other input.

So today's adventure... I struggled with the reproduction braided hose stuff in the engine compartment. I'm not impressed. Don't fit great. Hose clamps peel back the braided outer covering. Inconsistant braid cover. Frustrating. Is it just me? On a good note... Remember my "F" switch?: Well I removed the switch and plugged the hole. The braided hoses weren't picture worthy, but the result with the "F" switch was! Looks like this: Three work days remaining!! Well, actually two at this point, but here's a pic from earlier today:

Haha!! Exactly. ☺️