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  1. Today
  2. I saw a datecode on a powertransistor. week 05 '79.. so the machine is of 1980 or so, the microprocessor was still in development.. i think? Hihi, yeah.. i had it with the manual, and it was laying IN between the case halves.. i thought.. it will get wrinkled this way and i left it out and thought to read it some time.. now i can't find the EFFING thing? oh well.. it's somewhere in this house.. ;-) I think so... i have a brand new NISSAN CONSULT, bought from a Belgian nissan (sub?)dealer!! To check my 300zxtt i thought.. but it won't work. It's a complete case with all the special cables, leads everything! Not a scratch on it... but the only thing it does is "peep peep peeeeep.. when you touch the screen.. THAT was something special in 1990 !!! A TOUCHSCREEN!!!! I ones opened it with a friend who (maybe?) has worked on the development of your smartphones processor! ;-) (Samsung) We could not get it to work after a new back up battery and some power from a transformer. :-( I need the servicemanual for the servicemanual-tool haha.. you any idea where i could find the circuitdiagram of a nissan-consult 1 ?
  3. 240zadmire

    1977 280z

    I used the same brand name as well. isn’t that there is a phosphorous layer to protect the metal? Sanding or wire brushing might defeat the purpose. I use the aircraft stripper to remove the paint and I left bare metal for 2 years without any surface rust. Of course it’s Southern California weather. I parked in garage with bedding sheet on.
  4. Hey mates Does anyone updated their fuel rail to something like the pallnet or similar and run an after market adjustable FPR? Which ones do y'all use? The ones I'm finding are all 40 PSI + which is ever so slightly above the stock 36 PSI. Thanks Cheers
  5. Site, Glad you're out of danger. Now I just hope all you guys on the west coast can do the same!
  6. @jfa.series1 Got the heat shield today. All painted up nice too! Thx!
  7. I really like this one, I used it a lot when I was working on my hatch striker panel. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html Make sure to grab some good belts, I’m not sure about the quality difference between brands, some people say it makes a difference. If you have some spare coupons of scrap metal, try adjusting the wire speed to be faster, you might be able to get the weld to be flatter. (too fast and it’s going to blow through) Check this guy out: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1AiDqIHP5Po
  8. Fuel rail pressure is right on the money. I tested the newly rebuilt injectors and they all pulse properly with 9v applied. I have a new tune to load when I get back to the car. The tuner changed a few settings. TDC might have changed when I moved reluctor pickups in the CAS. My timing light still shows 10 degrees BTDC at the current setting though...
  9. I haven't checked bowl levels yet. Good tip. Thank you.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Glad you enjoyed today’s little treasure. Now off to google “How to make small coil springs by hand”
  12. Anyone else ordered from Auto Panel Solutions? I would be interested to hear about others experiences and/or thoughts. @wrecked2001, how was the fitment of the parts you purchased?
  13. I was trying to install a MSA replica BRE front lip (vented) and noticed that there is gap between the end of the spoiler and the bottom of the front radiator support. I think this might be how the replica molds are made, and I'm not sure. Based on this video it appears that an front spoiler from BRE will just about touch the lower radiator support. My early 260z was missing the lower valance from the car, I had acquired one for a 240z from a member on HybridZ and modified the mounting points to fit my 260z. I think its highly likely that I messed up the fitment of the valance on the car, is there supposed to be a gap between the valance and the lower radiator support to begin with? I just want to know if the issue is with my valance fitment, or a molding issue with the MSA BRE lips. If you have a BRE lip and can share a picture that would be great! 🙂
  14. I wonder where the Japan part comes in. Maybe there was a Japan division way back in the past. Looks like all American stuff now. https://www.high-performance-engines.com/AboutUs.asp Edit - here's the base, "normal performance", company. They do Japanese products. https://atkvege.com/products/ They say they sell rebuilt (reman) Z engines. https://atkvege.com/products/ http://atkvege.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2018/12/engine2016.pdf
  15. I like the rear and side views. The front view doesn't do much for me. The hood is too flat; needs more flow lines and needs to look less like a table. But viewing it in person may give a different impression.
  16. Driving while fatigued. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/sep/17/canada-tesla-driver-alberta-highway-speeding
  17. I encountered the same issue when I changed to a big brake kit from Arizona Z car including the change to discs on the rear. In my opinion the Wilwood prop valve is big and clunky and I wanted something more compact that ideally could be installed in the same position as the OEM fixed prop valve. So I ended up using this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Compact-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,1979.html It's really small and adjustable but does require conversion fittings to adapt to metric lines. Alternatively you could change the fittings on the lines themselves to match the threads on the prop valve. I ended up having to make a new line from the splitter to the prop valve as the original one was a little short and I had to devise a way to mount it to the firewall in the same OEM location, but it all worked out. Here's a few pictures of my install. The valve works great and I have it adjusted so I get an optimal bias between the fronts and rears. Hope this helps.
  18. @carcrazyken If he will sale it and you're still looking.
  19. Dang it. Someone wiped out at track day. I thought it was Greg IRA from a distance. The driver is okay.
  20. I recently saw a Z with what I think was a “European Air Dam”. I am curious if anyone has experience running one? Does anyone other than whitehead offer a similar style.
  21. Last week
  22. For sure I've wanted to hook up with one of the club cruises, but I always seem to check in on it a day late. Like the cars and coffee at The Shop the other day. Once I get this car safe to drive again I'll be looking a bit more closely at the meet ups. Oh, and I don't do Faceplant, and I see the club website isn't current, so I'll have to rely on someone else to make it known elsewhere, like this forum maybe.
  23. @siteunseen, that's some great info you linked to...especially the pictures and first hand experience of swapping the hard lines from one side to the other.
  24. There's always the "check your grounds" advice. Grounds might be the most overlooked problem in electrical troubleshooting. Some ignition modules ground through the mounting points.
  25. I would get some Kroil like Yarb recommended then try what captain obvious recommended. Personally Ive had more luck welding a nut onto the stud and using a impact to taking them out. The heat helps it break out. I also have this metric stud removal tool that I've used ..... but sometimes i just look for excuses to get the welder out.
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