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  1. Today
  2. from what i can see with the installed windshield there is a slight visual size difference between both gaskets, i notice it the precision gasket when i installed it, there are sections where the oxidized paint shows through. With that being said my whole car needs a respray. 😕 The white one is OEM, the brown one is a precision gasket. In the end i could not justify the price for OEM, for me the old gasket was leaking water into the cabin and ruining metal work I did. At the time I was a broke college student, now Im a broke public employee 😅 I'd be curious to see what vintage-rubber offers.
  3. Got a lot of work done but didn't have enough time to get it in the car today. Swapped out all the front incorrect hardware with the proper fasteners, modified the front heater hose port to go straight back instead of out, swapped the clutch mechanism in the trans from pull type to push type, drilled and tapped for new slave cylinder location, drilled the plug out for the rear sump dipstick tube, installed the pilot bushing, flywheel and clutch along with the transmission. We have decided to put the crossmember on the engine and then put everything in from the bottom.
  4. Applying high build primer and sanding is having to be repeated too much. I am again reminded how how inefficient I am at doing high quality bodywork. I don't know how many coats I have put on most the body now. If I had to guess, I am at like... a coat of epoxy primer, body filler, (round of sanding), a coat of epoxy primer, more body filler, (another round of sanding), two full coats of high solids primer, (more sanding), spot prime along with 2 more full coats of primer (5 coats in areas), (another round of sanding), and two more full coats of primer with spots getting 4 coats. I have run out of my gallon of HS primer. A gallon without hardener costs $360. So... My quest for perfect panels continues. I have learned a couple of things that might be helpful to others. First, I can now say from a learned standpoint, don't use commercially available sanding blocks that are out there as they are out of the box. I have bought several, and most of them have needed to have their sanding surfaces "trued". Take a look at this Durablock, for example: Hard to see from those angles... but here it is on a long level: Durablocks are "pretty firm", but they are also easily bent with standard sanding pressure. So, you can imagine how flat your panel would not get when using this. With light pressure, it sand with more pressure at each end. Hard pressure will allow it to conform a bit to the panel's existing surface. Softer foams are even more problematic. They can be useful in various contours, but they should not be used on large flat areas, not if you are trying for perfection. For those areas, use rigid sanding blocks. A block of wood that has been sanded flat is a great choice! Switching gears a little bit, (I find it best to rest my shoulders, elbows, and hands after 17 hours of sanding time over two days of the weekend), it is about time to put the new sound deadening mat in. I have choices! Not sure how I will proceed just yet. I don't think I have yet shared the pics showing my template creation. When I bought the car, the tar mat was gone from the floor surfaces and almost half of the tunnel. I spend many hours marking off lines (based on paint lines and existing tar mat pieces). As the tar mats are applied from the factory before primer and paint, some of the pattern was easily determined by looking at where there was over spray and where there was not. Other than those two things, I stared at pics online to determine areas I could not see how to shape. The templates are made from masking paper and masking tape. Regarding sound deadening, I originally planned to put the OEM stuff that I was able to source, but it is only about .060" thick. The bits I have (mostly from the tunnel) are more like .130". So, I could try to double up (I have four sheets like the one pictured, which should lay down flat and be usable after sitting in the sun for a bit. However, being that this is 50 years later, there is some stuff on the market like the Damplifier Pro. It is a butyl rubber product with a thick piece of aluminum on the top. It would be far better for sound dampening and heat insulation. I used my template and cut one piece for under the driver seat. It is not glued in place yet however. I will think on it some more.
  5. I recently purchased a 79 280zx booster from Power brake exchange. I’m in the early stages of the installation. The booster does fit without modifications at the firewall. Leaves just enough room for the clutch master. I’m using the same 15/16 master cylinder as well. Working on other areas of the car right now and have not gone any further with the install.
  6. After being absent for many years, I am rejoining the Z community. I had some work issues and then some serious health issues that halted my progress on getting my 70 240 back in shape. Before I parked it, I had the mechanicals in pretty good shape and was getting ready to start on the interior. My Z has the Racing Green exterior with the butterscotch interior. A previous owner had the door panels and seats reupholsted in a tan\cloth combo that may have looked good at the time, but (no surprise) it did not wear very well and I would like to go back to the butterscotch door panels and seats covers. I have had good luck with sourcing everything but the door panels. Seems no one has the butterscotch door panels in stock. My existing door panels are likely not salvagable, I could buy some new black panels and new butterscotch skins, and have the black vinyl removed and replaced with the butterscotch skins, but then I still need a chrome strip. Is it possible to salvage the chrome strip from the black vinyl? This seems like it would be expensive. Any thoughts on where I can source some butterscotch door panels? Thanks
  7. I thought this was going to be stupidly simple and it probably is but where does this go. I am looking at the relays in the passenger footwell but I don’t understand how it attaches can someone take a picture of one that’s put together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I plan to get rid of the downdrafts and in fact already have a new stroker motor in development. Will probably be going ITB’s on this build.
  9. I'm looking at some old pics of when I cut one of the pulleys off a two-pulley harmonic balancer. (Academic project on a damaged balancer.) Don't remember if I ever posted these in the past, but here's a couple pics: The point is... I'm wondering if the nut you purchased is going to work. First, the corners of the hex need to be small enough to fit inside the front oil seal. You could remove the front seal if you need to (since you're probably going to replace it anyway). Second, you'll need enough length on the nut to a) engage the key on the crank, and b) still have enough length sticking out of the front cover to get a turning tool onto it. If the front cover is completely off the motor then neither of those trouble spots apply, but if the front cover is still installed, I'm thinking things might not work out.
  10. None of my large sockets have that shoulder on them. That would be really useful sometimes
  11. Patcon

    Clutch Issue

    Good Yes, the bleed needs to be at the highest point
  12. Thank you for all the pics and showing your progress on this 240Z. Looking foward to see more pics as you continue with this restoration.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Thanks. That seems to have helped. And I fired her up. Stuck float makes sense. It's been sitting for about 2.5 weeks with the fuel rails detached.
  15. Thanks Site.....this will be my last one.....cost more than my first Z.
  16. Reassembled the horn components and placed the wheel for effect. The cling wrap is just there to protect the paint for now.
  17. September 2020 in Nashville would be nice...I know I'm hoping for that target.
  18. Bart, the fan and clutch shown by Zkars above, is what came on my series 1 when purchased new. These fans were heavy and often caused premature failure of water pumps. It was fairly common for dealers to switch these out for the later plastic fan and clutch assembly when they became available on later Zs. I have the plastic fan assembly on my car and only put the metal fan on for shows. If you use this metal fan, I would make sure it is well balanced and has the correct resistance in the clutch.
  19. Found them. K&N 62-1340 is the 5/8" K&N 62-1370 is the 1" Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  20. Found them. K&N 62-1340 is the 5/8" K&N 62-1370 is the 1" Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  21. View Advert ANSA Muffler, NOS with v-band flanges **NOTE: Current pic is one I stole from the internet. Actual pic coming soon Bought this with the intention of installing on my Datsun Roadster, but its gone now. Its the stacked style. 2" Inlet so not the best for high-hp cars, but for those who like the look and the sound, this cant be beat. Advertiser 2mAn Date 06/01/2020 Price $200.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  22. I have had 2 cars with the series 1 transmissions. You can replace the rubber shifter bushing with an aluminum or delrin bushing and it takes the slop right out of it.
  23. Seems shorter than what i was expecting; i was thinking 20-25 hours to get out there. So @SoCalJim we stopping over at the in-n-out in Reno or what? @Montana Z How did your Z run with the elevation changes? I'm running su-carbs at the moment.
  24. Pinion gear and rack gear for 69-78 appear to both be NLA for both numbers
  25. These are Dutch license plates of that period of time. A friend of mine has the letter fromRob Jansen to Nissan Japan about the stability.
  26. Our mission is simply to discuss anything Z-car related, in a supportive environment. I apologize if any of our members have come across egocentric and it's my intent to stop this from happening. I want all members to feel welcome and confident their posts will not be trolled. As far as your images are concerned, you may want to send me a private message as there should be no reason for this to stop working.
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