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  2. 1973 Datsun 240Z Parts or whole - $950 (Raytown) https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/d/kansas-city-1973-datsun-240z-parts-or/7237380548.html The seller is located near Kansas City, MO.
  3. I have to stop reading threads like this. Now I'm considering getting an AFR with a wideband and a 4 channel data logger. I could probably rig up the sender on my fuel pressure gauge to give me a signal, and I can tap into the TPS. ARGH! You guys are evil. I don't need to go down this path, but now I WANT to!
  4. That explains it! Thanks as usual Dave! @siteunseen thanks for the share. Reading through now. It's great having you guys around because a lot of the older posts link to images on Geosites which are no longer active. Great to have all of the knowledge. Always appreciated guys! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
  5. I got the Z out yesterday and have some updated info. At idle if you rev it the idle drops and takes awhile to recover as indicated above- so it does not have to be driving to do this. If you pump the brakes at a standstill the idle also drops not as severely- it recovers after a few seconds. I took the car out yesterday and it was colder out about 65 degrees - the last time I dialed in the cabs it was probably 90 ish. Anyway the idle issue was worse yesterday- when approaching a stoplight I put the car in neutral and rolled to the stoplight -it stalled, it also stalled a few other times when coming to a stop if I didn't work the accelerator pedal so it would not stall. . Don't know if the lower outside temp contributed to the idle drop being worse or if it is something else. As I mentioned one of my evap canister line connectors is broken so the line just hangs there connected to nothing. This connector traces back to the line from the distributor vacuum advance. It comes off the vacuum advance and breaks into two directions one going a few inches and connecting to a nipple on the front carburetor the other travels to the Evap canister. BTW I have the Crane electronic ignition module and coil installed as well. Thoughts, suggestions, would replacing the brake booster help the idle dropping?
  6. Today
  7. Thanks for the input @240260280. It seems that hydrochloric acid is clearly the most effective. Comes with all the safety downsides, but definitely the most effective. My plater said that everything was going to go through a quick hydrochloric dip before the plating solutions. My thought was to get as much off as I could beforehand and hopefully his quick hydrochloric dip would take care of the rest. I was thinking that his hydrochloric dip would take off any surface rust that developed while the parts sat in boxes waiting until I had everything prepped and ready to go.
  8. thanks I’ll defiantly keep that in mind! My sister lives around Jacksonville so if I can make it out there I’ll hit you up! I’ll have to look to see if it does support A/C. Dumb question but what exactly would I be looking for . The car is 100% stock and never had a/c so I’m not sure if it would support it. A video would be great! Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Check out these sexy as oz made frame rails I got my hands on...
  10. it be nice if i find one that can help service the old Z plus newer cars. im a computer geek, so i will figure it out, but i just need help deciding what is suitable for the older cars. whats specs should i be looking for on an Oscilloscope
  11. Thanks Captain, I guess we bump the cylinder out a bit...
  12. Those were MY good old days. Hotel room with the Tyson fight, bathtub full of iced down beer and girls, girls, girls.
  13. Yesterday
  14. That's the great thing about owning an old car. There are LOTS of learning opportunities.
  15. Sorry Sean, all the remaining sets are sold. You had already purchased one set, it probably is in Springfield by now. I do not have any of the small caps. Thanks, Jim
  16. I agree with mr Racer 100% on this. I have had so many tell me I had an exhaust gasket leak but I do not. You can hear things so much better with header runners it sounds like a leak but isn't. Do the short section of hose as a stethoscope and you'll hear all 6 sound the same.
  17. Update for you guys. I created a bypass switch to enable high-altitude mode using a standard flip switch and two spade connectors (one plugged into each of the plug's 2 sockets). I gave it a quick test and it seems to be working (after confirming continuity). If your bypass switch is working, you will notice the following with the car warmed up and any vacuum line unplugged: Switch on: the car should have a fairly noticeable stumble Switch off: the car should have a mild stumble if at all
  18. Hi Ed - I'll have that please with shipping to Springfield, Missouri - please PM me what parts you have remaining from your garage sale. Kind regards - stay safe. Sean
  19. Well, my all-aluminium strut-brace bar kits are becomming popular and it didn't take long before my friend 'down-under, #AaronNeubauer from #BuiltOnPurpose made us a 'how-to-fit' video which I shall steal and share here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMO1j7NnhEQ&fbclid=IwAR3CZILk4vdsmXX1WSBJZ1uMq3PDGeQxgNWcS7CVgSnlr5ZiA950-vFsBMU There's a Black Friday promotion price too : Black Friday Prices (both bars) : US$290 £215 CAN$380 AUS$400 NZ$430 € 230 / Fr €220 Prices (front or Rear bar only) : US$180 £130 CAN$380 AUS$250 NZ$270 € 135 / Fr €120 Fits all S30s, please specify your year and model when ordering !
  20. That's the Remover. AK260's was the Converter. https://jenolite.com/about-us/faq/
  21. @siteunseen - thanks. I have no background knowledge here, so it's good to hear that. I have thought about taking the headers off (they are the standard 3-2-1, which are stock headers, as far as I know) and sending them to get Jet Hot coated instead of wrapping. But, that's like $400. I just figured if some see it as a problem then now is the time to address it. But, if the braintrust on this forum think no wrap or coating is necessary, then that's good to know. I have an electric fuel pump back just off the gas tank.
  22. Thanks Matthew. I think I understand what you did now. I've had my parking brake handle out a couple times in the past to make some modifications to it and I never dropped the driveshaft, but I did have the seats out. Anyway, I don't remember how bad my rubber seal was, but it was at least good enough that I put it back in. I also don't drive my car in the wet either, so it doesn't matter as much. Thanks again. and maybe I'll do something like that next time
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