Topics Last Week

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

It sounds like it. What head, compression ratio, fuel and ignition advance.

Found out last week the previous owner of my 280z lied and both frame rails are rusted out, also the rear suspension sits crooked under the car. The rust can be easily repaired but costs a lot of money but the suspension issue is likely a twisted or bent body. All in all the wife isn’t happy with the extra costs but she knows I won’t sell the car.

I’ve seen this mentioned here before on the cable length. Reverse left to right will give you more cable length. You will have to do some engineering on the hangers.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

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I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

BTW.. if you really want to put some fuel into a tank of anything/any machine, i use the fuel for 2 and 4 cycle engines used in gardening machines.. they stay good a long time, are more expensive but work the best and keep things not getting clogged up with varnish! The fuel out of the tank i put in the car that i'm driving at that time. (Often the 240z as it's used round the clock and also can run on bad fuel or old fuel.. i always say if i pee in the tank he will probably drive on that as well! 🤣 )

Didn't mean to contradict you directly. There might have been something in the fuel that was left behind as a solid. Crystalline and solid are two separate things in the materials world. A solid can be crystalline but it doesn't have to be. Who knows, it might have been residual fuel stabilizer, left behind when the gasoline evaporated. Most of them are a witch's brew of chemicals designed to save the metals and the fuel. I took some chemistry courses! 🤢 https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Lucas-Fuel-Stabilizer.pdf https://defender.com/assets/pdf/sta-bil/safety_data_sheet_302110.pdf

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.

But why do you expect to see detailed photos of a commercial, industrial process over and above the few PR photos that Nissan chose to show us? They gave us plenty of information about the product itself and a fair bit of information about the company and its various operations. As far as Nissan are concerned, anything more than that is really none of our business.

Possibly change the system to a higher resistance coil? And get rid of one or both ballasts. Just a thought

Interested -- if the price is manageable.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964

My factory floor covers the groove and its filled with black goo

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

You meant N47 =MN47

What a clever little piece! Never heard of that either