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Hey Gents I'm getting my Z engine restored update the cam to a more aggressive profile (regrind)The engines is pretty much done but I do need custom lash pads for this cam. My machinist has had issues with the flat bottom type lash pads and would prefer the stock type ones (the one with the little dimple on the bottom). Anyone know of a good vendor? Thank you Regards Jan

Not bad for 1976 280Z survivor. Still has the splash shield and exhaust pipe heat shields. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-106/

So many new things pop up on the internet now it's a surprise they haven't interviewed his coworkers who saw it happen. I just read a different article yesterday about him where he said he thought he should have switched to being a normal right-handed player. He started playing leftie, like Jimi Hendrix, and didn't think he could relearn everything so he just improvised with those prosthetic finger tips. I worked with a guy years ago, after his own accident, who did similar but cut off about half of all four. Said he didn't feel a thing, they were just gone. Metal shears are dangerous.

Valve cover gaskets were never glued from the factory. Still available from Nissan.

Hi Site……If you shave .080 inches from your P90 head, you’ll have to jack up the cam towers .080 inches too. You use the early 280 valves which are approximately .080 inches longer. With this set up, you don’t need the shorter valve seals……they are used when the L24 head uses a cam with .460 or more lift which would squash those seals. If you decide to do that, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Eiji at Datsun Spirit…..he has everything you need to build that head. He has a ton of Isky Stage III cams also. If you just send him your head, he’ll build you a piece of art. Nice buy for $25.00.

Its a pitty as the car is driveable but has this problem during traffic jams.

Newer but pretty cool!

He didn't but these guys did.

@Nils Ya, when you press the switch it's supposed to flip into the other position. It sounds like you have a similar issue to what I had originally: I could depress the toggle, it would temporarily switch to the other side, but once I released the switch it would reset back to the original position. Yours sounds a little worse as it isn't even able to temporarily switch. I forget which colors correspond to which, but power comes in through the center connection, and then goes out through the connections on the left or right - one for high beam, one for low beam. Ie, we'll just call the connections 1, 2, and 3, with 1 being high, 2 being the center, and 3 being low. 1-2 would trigger high beams, and 2-3 would trigger low beams. You can test that with continuity. You should never have continuity between 1 and 3. @fredrick that's a spring and a brass cap. It sits in a circular opening in a rocker inside the actual switch housing. The piece is held into the plastic via a roll-pin and is the only part I didn't remove when disassembling the whole thing (I didn't think there was a chance I get it out without it breaking. It's the second picture in the first post This whole setup is quite finicky and I've thought a few times about trying to engineer some kind of replacement, but not sure if the interest would justify it.

I will double check that but I don't believe any of that has been changed since my last test fire. I did remove the combo switches and reinstall. Maybe I messed something up there

@solly I don’t believe you answered my question about the check valve. Trying to offer known problems that cause what you are describing

Called a "reaction disc"

It's always a mistake to paint/powder coat those rear stub axle brake drum flanges, Nissan didn't.