Sign in to follow this  
  • entries
    4
  • comments
    0
  • views
    2,119

Entry 4 Interior Removal

Sign in to follow this  
CaseyByrd72

1,884 views

Back at it this past weekend after some much needed vacation!  I removed the rear bumper, fuel expansion tank, and the interior.  I had some help from my better half.  We spent about 4 hours Saturday and 5 hours on Sunday.  I started with the rear bumper.  The original bumper has hole in the middle of the top, from what I presume was a hitch. The back side of the bumper has a good bit of rust.  These two issues probably add up to a new bumper. Ouch!

Next was removal of the fuel expansion tank and the fuel filler neck.  The neck came out easy enough, but the filler neck was was not so easy.  The flange at the top of the neck needed to be folded in so it would pass down through the hole in the body.  The neck was badly damaged, no doubt contributing to the fuel smell when driving. 

Then we removed the interior, which was straight forward and has begun to reveal the extent of floorpan rust.  The passenger side is worse, with complete rust-through just behind the rear most seat support, about one inch by four.  I have about 75% of the floor insulation off and it appears it was good at holding moisture.  As the plastic interior panels were removed, most broke since they have become so fragile with age.  

Next week I will remove the front and rear suspension and get unibody mounted to a rotisserie so I can get a good look at the underside and rails.  Thanks for reading.  

IMG_0210.JPG

IMG_0221.JPG

IMG_0222.JPG

IMG_0225.JPG

IMG_0231.JPG

IMG_0235.JPG

IMG_0238.JPG

IMG_0246.JPG

Sign in to follow this  


0 Comments


Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      168
    • Total Entries
      250
  • Blog Comments

    • I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today.  I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot.  I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed.  I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes.  One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor.  I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr
    • Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find.  Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators.  I will be needing to do the same for my project.  I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area.  Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
    • Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there.
    • There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes.  The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented.  The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power.  The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums.  The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve.  The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias. 
    • Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes?  The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug.  It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs.  These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit).  Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit.