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Showing results for tags 'drivetrain'.
Found 3 results
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I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching my clutch fork and still I'm having the same issue. System has been bleed completely and I cant take anymore away from the shank on the slave cylinder. Later I will try adjusting the clutch pedal from under the dash see if that gives me any improvement. Any advice or suggestions would help thanks for the read!!!!!! -
This topic picks up on a mini-conversation that I started on Grannyknot's 280Z build thread. These little washers are an important part of the NVH isolation design for the Z's rear diff. The design, from an engineering perspective, is a lot more sophisticated than meets the eye, so there's an incentive to try to install a proper replacement if your own have deteriorated (which they probably have, if they're 50-year-old originals). Unfortunately, the part is NLA from Nissan and none of the primary Z restoration parts suppliers offer a substitute. There's been some discussion about the need to use vulcanized rubber. I think that's a red herring (look up, 'vulcanized') and was meant to infer that the rubber part needs to be bonded to the metal part. While the originals might have relied on a heat-bonding process, its now 2019 and we have aerospace adhesives for this purpose. So: All we really need is the rubber part. Steve / Nix240 has cobbledup a wide range of rpreviously unavailable rubber parts for our Z's. I see nothing special about re-creating the moustache bar runner washers, other than using a suitable durometer rubber and having access to a good-condition original to create a mold. After that, they could be bonder to a suitable metal washer and, presto, we have another part taken off the NLA list. I think these washers carry across the entire 240-26-280 series without any differences. Maybe even the ZX's? Also: I'm thinking that the same might be the case for the Series 1's diff front insulator. Steve creates the rubber piece, then the owner carves the perished rubber out of his insulator, cleans up the metal armature, and then bonds in the new rubber. @nix240z Steve: What do you think? -
Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
