2ManyZs

Be sure to check the U-joints carefully. By changing the springs, you have effectively changed the angle of the half shafts and that could be where all the noise is coming from.

Since the car has a 3:90 the best thing to do would be to swap for a 5 speed. More than likely, the noise you are hearing is the throw out bearing though. More often than not, the throw out bearings will make more noise when you don't have the clutch pedal engaged, than when you push in on the pedal.

This might be an old joke, but it's just too funny not to spread it around a little more.... The Great Hamster story: If you have raised kids (or been one), and gone through the pet syndrome including toilet-flush burials for dead goldfish, the story below will have you laughing out LOUD! Here's what happened: Just after dinner one night, my son came up to tell me there was "something wrong" with one of the two hamsters he holds prisoner in his room. "He's just lying there looking sick," he told me. "I'm serious, Dad. Can you help?" I put my best hamster-healer expression on my face and followed him into his bedroom. One of the little rodents was indeed lying on his back, looking stressed. I immediately knew what to do. "Honey", I called, "come look at the hamster!" "Oh my gosh," my wife diagnosed after a minute. "She's having babies." "What?" my son demanded. "But their names are Bert and Ernie, Mom!" I was equally outraged. "Hey, how can that be? I thought we said we didn't want them to reproduce," I accused my wife. "Well, what do you want me to do, post a sign in their cage?" she inquired. (I actually think she said this sarcastically!) "No, but you were supposed to get two boys!" I reminded her, (in my most loving, calm, sweet voice, while gritting my teeth together). "Yeah, Bert and Ernie!" my son agreed. "Well, it's just a little hard to tell on some guys, you know," she informed me. (Again with the sarcasm, you think?) By now the rest of the family had gathered to see what was going on. I shrugged, deciding to make the best of it. "Kids, this is going to be a wondrous experience, I announced. "We're about to witness the miracle of birth." "OH, Gross!" they shrieked. "Well, isn't THAT just Great! What are we going to do with a litter of tiny little hamster babies?" my wife wanted to know. (I really do think she was being snotty here, too, don't you?) We peered at the patient. After much struggling, what looked like a tiny foot would appear briefly, vanishing a scant second later. "We don't appear to be making much progress," I noted. "Its breech," my wife whispered, horrified. "Do something, Dad!" my son urged. "Okay, okay." Squeamishly, I reached in and grabbed the foot when it next appeared, giving it a gingerly tug. It disappeared. I tried several more times with the same results. "Should I call 911?" my eldest daughter wanted to know. "Maybe they could talk us through the trauma." (You see a pattern here with the females in my house?) "Let's get Ernie to the vet," I said grimly. We drove to the vet with my son holding the cage in his lap. Breathe, Ernie, breathe," he urged. "I don't think hamsters do Lamaze," his mother noted to him. (Women can be so cruel to their own young. I mean what she does to me is one thing, but this boy is of her womb, for God's sake.) The vet took Ernie back to the examining room and peered at the little animal through a magnifying glass. "What do you think, Doc, a c-section?" suggested scientifically. "Oh, very interesting," he murmured. "Mr. and Mrs. Cameron, may I speak to you privately for a moment?" I gulped, nodding for my son to step outside. "Is Ernie going to be okay?" my wife asked. "Oh, perfectly," the vet assured us. "This hamster is not in labor. In fact, that isn't EVER going to happen... Ernie is a boy. You see, Ernie is a young male. And occasionally, as they come into maturity, like most male species, they um....um....masturbate. Just the way he did, lying on his back." He blushed, glancing at my wife. "Well, you know what I'm saying, Mr. Cameron." We were silent, absorbing this. "So Ernie's just...just...Excited," my wife offered. "Exactly," the vet replied, relieved that we understood. More silence. Then my vicious, cruel wife started to giggle. And giggle. And then even laugh loudly. "What's so funny?" I demanded, knowing, but not believing that the woman I married would commit the upcoming affront to my FLAWLESS manliness. Tears were now running down her face. "It's just...that...I'm picturing you pulling on its... its...teeny little..." she gasped for more air to bellow in laughter once more. "That's enough," I warned. We thanked the Veterinarian and hurriedly bundled the hamsters and our son back into the car. He was glad everything was going to be okay. "I know Ernie's really thankful for what you've done, Dad," he told me. "Oh, you have NO idea," my wife agreed, collapsing with laughter. 2 Hamsters . $10 1 Cage ..... $20 1 Trip to the Vet .... $30 Memory of your husband pulling on a hamster's wacker. ...Priceless.

Oops, I knew there was another thread that needed to be moved.... I just forgot which one it was...:stupid:

Get a DA sander with either 80 or 100 grit paper. Using a grinder will only cause you more work than it's worth. The DA will do a better job of keeping the surface fairly smooth and even and you won't have as much work to do later to fill in all the high and low spots. It doesn't take much to take off a coat of paint or two, and using the wrong tool will only make things worse.

Sounds like you still have air in the master cylinder if you aren't getting any pressure on the front caliper at all. Bleed it again, and this time run about 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it before you go to the wheel cylinders and calipers. If that doesn't get all the air out, something isn't right....

I cringed when I approved those pics Ash...:disappoin Hope you have access to a good chassis for parts to fix it, or you can rebuild another suitable chassis. Knowing all to well how hard it is to find a solid inner fender/strut tower, it looks like you will have your hands full for a while. Hate to see a Z get stuffed like that, but at least you were able to walk away. Now everyone can see why I've been hesitant about rebuilding the stuffed race car I have had sitting in my shop for years, I'd hate for it to get bent again and lose a good chassis.

Here's the ZZapZ special edition we had... notice it doesn't have the overfenders either.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7534&highlight=ZZap+Z If this is (or was) a real ZZapZ, it's been too highly modified to even call it a "true" ZZapZ. Color doesn't even look right to me, or it may just be the differences in the cameras. He also stated that the 77 was the first to have FI and we all know that isn't true either.....

It's only "magic" if you have been snorting the "fairy dust"....:devious: Such an obvious rip-off and Ebay allows it.... no wonder I'm particular about who I buy things from. Shipping charges alone are more than what he is selling is worth.... Rates right up there with the "atmospheric supercharging"....

Even though I've never seen one, the 432R's would be my first choice. One of these days it would be nice to see one hit the US and make the rounds of all the shows.....be willing to bet it would stir up a lot of interest and increase attendance too.... Second choice would be any of the BSR, BRE or any of the Japanese road race cars (factory or privateer) as long as they are kept as close to original as possible.

I don't remember my 75 having one until I put one on like Chino's when I started racing it. If it's pushing out coolant, it could be a bad cap, or it could be that it is running a bit too hot also. Safest thing to do is to verify the coolant temp in the radiator with a cooking thermometer after you get it up to normal operating temp. The stock gauge and sending unit are notoriously inaccurate. You could also spend a few bucks for a cheap mechanical temp gauge and put the sending unit in place of the electrical one and drive it a while with the guage placed somewhere inside the car so you can verify the operating temp while you drive.

Sounds to me like you were given the incorrect hub adapter, I've had quite a few aftermarket wheels (mostly Grant) and so far they have all fit perfectly in the splines. I'd either get with MSA and see if they'll make good on it and send you the correct one free (shipping too) or try to source one locally. I don't know about over there, but most all the Grant wheel dealers and even the cheapo parts stores stock a good selection of the hub adapters for Grant wheels.

.030-.035 is pretty much the standard plug gap. With the electronic ignition you should probably go to .035, even a little more than that if you've done any upgrades to the ignition like a hotter coil etc....

The ones you saw on Ebay were possibly the earlier version of the floor pans. They only had one or two bends if I remember correctly and they didn't fit nearly as well as the kits that ZF supplies now. They were basically just a flat sheet of steel and they required a lot of "fitting" for the one or two sets I've seen installed. MSA still sells them, and the price is about half of the good set. Part number of the Premium kit is 30-7317 for 70-8/74 cars and the price is listed in their old catalog as 309.95 The "basic" kit is 30-7313 for 70-8/74 and that price is 169.95, so as you can see, there's a big difference in price and for good reason too.

Actually, there isn't a year specified on mine. I found that the wiring diagram is for a late S30 and some of the pics inside show things such as an early console along with the later ones and even the automatic consoles. Oh well, it'll help with the 72's I've got, just not the 71 on all the wiring.... The part number on the cover of this one is P/N 99999-20025 if that helps any, I think this must be a revision of the earlier Supplement Chassis Manual. What is the part number of the earlier version you have?

When I first read that after it was forwarded to me, I thought you were going to end the story differently. I kinda figured it would have been one of those "tourists" who had never seen a gator and had stopped in the middle of the Interstate to take a pic, and that was what caused the traffic jam....:stupid: Gator that big would have done a hurtin on most any kind of vehicle.... The thing I hated the most about traveling in Florida was hitting one of those "armored"dillos in a tractor trailer, those little buggers would yank the wheel out of your hands. Can almost imagine what hitting one of them would be like in a car.:tapemouth

Or worn bushings on the shaft that is causing the air gap to change. When you push against the side of the distrubutor body you may be bringing the shaft back into the alignment that is required for the proper air gap of the reluctor to stator clearance. If the air gap changes, you will have a missfire just like if you had a loose set of points, the larger or smaller the gap, the less electricity is conducted, causing a missfire or no fire at all at the plugs. Seems like a possible cause at least ....

You'd want to use 20 guage steel at least, and that is not easy to make long bends in without a bending brake. It would be a lot easier and less time consuming to buy them from Motorsport Auto, their Premium kit is supplied by ZeddFindings. The floor pans would be a bit stronger as they are stamped and have the factory ribs in them. If you take a completely flat sheet of steel, it won't be as strong as one that has been bead rolled, or stamped. Your total money saved by doing them yourself is probably going to be about half, but the time involved is what is going to be at least double what you would have to invest if you just bought them. A sheet of 20 gauge large enough to do the job is gonna cost you a little more than you think.

I put one in the 71 before I tore it apart and it sounded pretty good with the radio that was in the car. I used a set of 6x9 Infinity speakers I've had since the mid 80's.... I never got around to putting my good stereo (80 watt x4 channel) in it so I can't vouch for the sound quality, but with the cheap one in there it's acceptable, although not quite what I know that system of mine is capable of. I did find that the speaker panel is a tight fit, and had a tough time getting one of the screws in. They used a long screw to mount it into the tabs that hold the plastic panel by using a clip on "nut" and it was a little difficult to line up properly due to how tight it was against the rear bulkhead and side panels. I would also use some kind of sound deadener in back of the speakers in between them and the taillights. If you are good with wood, you should be able to make one very similar yourself and save a bunch of money, but when you're like me and can't saw a board straight with a table saw...... :cross-eye

For those of you who are tired of trying to read the wiring diagrams in the FSM's and other so called "service manuals" there is a great solution. Keep a watch on Ebay for an S30 supplement chassis manual. These are the service manuals given to the Nissan techs, it's just a thin little book, but it has the best wiring diagram I've ever seen. It is in a fold out in the back of the manual, and it is poster sized, 16x19 inches. Even Mr. Magoo could read it. It has also got some nice wiring diagrams of the dash and engine harness with easy to read schematics as to which color wire is in each of the connectors in the harness. There is also a good diagram of the complete heater assembly and ducting under the dash. It's a great find if you can luck into one, I've seen quite a few on Ebay in the past couple years and never bid, so, just for the heck of it put in a bid on one last week and won it for under 15 bucks.:classic:

I got it to open earlier today, and without a yeehoo user ID either, but it isn't working now....:cross-eye

If you open the bleeder on the slave cylinder it will bleed by gravity. What you want to do, is close the bleeder on the slave enough that it won't bleed by gravity, but will bleed if you depress the clutch pedal. The little bit of back pressure you create will often times force the air out of the MC that otherwise would stay there if you do it by gravity. That's the way I've always done it and it seems to work.

Could be that it has air trapped in the MC, you shouldn't have to use the pedal adjustment at all when you just change the MC and SC. Unless it was way out of adjustment to begin with.