2ManyZs

Born in Texas, claims NY as "home", lives in SC..... talk about an identity crisis.....

I think you may be referring to the "Sports Option" catalog, which is similar to the Nissan Competition Catalog (what we had in the US), offering factory approved equipment designed for motorsports.

The first Z that came from the factory with a LSD wasn't until 1987. If yours has one, it would have had to have been put in as an add on. Nismo still offers them although they are pricey(700+) and becoming harder to find for the R-200's and R-180's. Quaiffe has one that fits, and is similar to the Torson units, but they are usually 900+ dollars.

Take a look here to figure out what are buying first. The R-160's will fit a 240, but they aren't as strong as the R-180, so if you are planning any future engine upgrades you'll have to take that into account that your diff may not hold up. V-8 conversions, Turbo conversions will require a stronger diff. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm#Where%20does%20Subaru%20Fit%20in?

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Of course, you never know what a previous owner may have installed......

Depends on what you are referring to as a heat coating. Jet Hot or something like that or the brush on types you can get at speed shops? I've seen a few racers that have taken the time and money to have their intake manifolds and cross over Jet Hot coated on the outside. Due to the rules they can only do the outside and not the inside. Does it make a big difference? Not one that could be felt in the seat according to the one who I know. It does however look darn good. If it were done inside and out, I think the benefit of doing it would increase as it would reduce the heat transfer in and out of the manifold by somewhat isolating the manifold material from all heat sources. In other words, I doubt it would be worth the time and money unless it's done inside and out, where you will reap the largest benefit. Same with the headers. If it is done only on the outside, the metal is still in contact with the hot exhaust gases, which will end up causing the metal to act as a heat sink which will hold the heat, while if it is coated on the inside, the more of the heat will escape thru the exhaust and not have the chance to heat up the metal.

Hmm, I've never seen one like that, and never even noticed the pics in his book either.....:cross-eye Maybe an aftermarket replacement part that is NLA?

Looks great to me Craig:classic: But how did "the Boss" convince you to put your name on the passengers side?????

Their price on the Tamiya 1/12 ZG kit is great, but they are way high on the Kyosho die casts..... Odd that they have such a good price on something that is NLA, yet something that is still available is almost double what you would pay either on Ebay or another supplier...

My 71 has the latch as well as one of the 72's (very early car) and the late 72 has none. The 73 I had I do remember having the locking cover, as it froze up once in the winter and I had a %^## of a time getting it open when I was running around on fumes. Don't know if it was a dealer add on or not, as I've seen a few of the locking gas doors but not many. Another assembly line mystery maybe?

Look at the auction again, and notice where they are listed. Sometimes you need to do a broader search as not all the parts are listed under Z items, or Datsun items. Do a search and always remember to check off the box for titles and descriptions, you'll get a lot more listings.

They met reserve at 159, but I'd bet they are going to go a lot higher than that....... I wouldn't mind having a nice set, but can't afford them right now.... The basic shape is the pretty much the same over all the years Stephen, but if you notice the colors changed in the later ones. The earlier ones were a two-tone while these seem to be all painted one color with no trim around the cut-outs.

Well, the main reason I called them adjustable bushings is the fact that there are two ways to adjust the camber, either with the adjustable control arm bushings, or at the top of the strut with their adjustable "insulator". The link Mark just posted is what I am talking about. You should also get the wrench that goes with them, although you could make them yourself. They are made of a thin guage aluminum as there is very little room and a regular wrench won't fit. All you need to do is loosen the bolts on the mounting "cap" and you can then adjust them fairly easily if they are well lubricated, but you will need to jack up the tire just enough to get the weight off it.

I was sitting here thinking about how many of both styles of those clamps I've thrown in the trash over the years. If I'd only known.....:stupid:

Yeah, 70 series are still available, just not in what you might consider to be a "performance" tire.... the choices are getting more and more limited though. I've got a couple sets of the stock steel wheels, although at the moment they are holding cars up out of the mud...

Yeah, you and me both Mike. It's just perfect for me the way it is, and my Dad had no trouble with headroom and he was 6'4". If the roof had been 3 inches lower, it would have seriously compromised head room, not to mention the scale of the car itself. With the high beltline it would have also made the side windows way too small, talk about blind spots while driving......:cross-eye

Yes, the adjustable control arm bushings will allow you to adjust the toe in the rear, by adjusting one or the other of the bushings. They aren't cheap though, I think about 120 or so for the four bushings. They also require more maintanence than the stock replacements, as they are aluminum and delrin. You will have to lube them judiciously when you install them, and it is good to pull them and re-lube them every couple years, just to make sure they don't wear out the delrin.

At least it wasn't a Z.....:stupid: :sick:

Hybrid has been up all day today, must be their new address that is screwing things up... http://68.224.171.75/phpnuke/html/index.php Even ZDriver is down today, now I know why we've had so many online today....:cross-eye

Yeah, I second the virus scans.. I got hit 3 times this afternoon with the MiMail virus attached to one of the Paypal scam e-mails, so someone I know got hit....... :mad:

Check with Chloe at MidwestZ. I'm not sure of those fasteners are available separately or not. They are usually included with the replacement weatherstrips.

Bet no one will be in the back seat trying to "fog up" the back windows either....:devious:

Try swapping the plugs around, take the plug from 1 and 2 and swap them, drive it for a day, then check them again. It could be just a weak spark plug, if the same plug fouls in number 1, it's the plug. If the plug you put in number 2 fouls, you'll know it's the cylinder itself. How long since you adjusted the valves? And, have you re-adjusted the valves since you put the head on? If not, try re-adjusting the valves again. Drive it around a while and re-check the plugs. One thing to do while you have the valve cover off when you adjust the valves would be to check the wear pattern on the rockers, just to be sure the valves were set up with the proper lash pads when the head was worked on. If you look in this thread, you'll get a good idea what to look for as far as as the wear pattern and contact on the rockers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6342&highlight=lash+pads See if that helps any......

Wasn't the one in "You Only Live Twice" a convertible?

I think it's only down temporarily over the weekend for whatever reason...at least that's what I read on another forum.