2ManyZs

I was kinda wondering how come we were doing it again too Stephen... Maybe we'll come up with some forgotten tunes, with new members. Yeah, ZZTop is high on my list, so is Skynard, Jackson Browne (especially Running on Empty), Steve Miller, 38 Special,Huey Lewis, with a little Bonnie Raitt and Joe Cocker too...

Both problems sound like a sensor malfunction, either the water temp, thermotime switch, or air temp sensor. They both work in conjunction to control the injectors through the ECM. Vapor lock with FI is highly unlikely. I'd suggest reading through this troubleshooting manual before you do anything..... http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/

Can't blame it on the vehicle, it was the idiot behind the wheel that caused it. You're lucky in one way, it only got the hood, it could have been lower and got the bumper, headlight buckets, hood and buckled the fenders. Still sucks though. :disappoin Just like the shopping cart I found in the door of my pickup, left a nice little dent and scratch cuz someone was too damn lazy to push their damn cart into the rack.

Pulling the rear cover and looking at the ring gear teeth for grooves, chunks out of it, and turning it to check for excessive play will tell you quite a bit.

Cool.... Now I know why Jeff Werth said setting up an R-200 was a PITA compared to setting the R-180's.....

Mine are going to be painted red, just like you'd see on nearly any Porsche. I've never seen a "riced" out Porsche... maybe I should say yet...:cross-eye

That's the main reasons I was looking at the products Eastwoods has. They have 9 colors (including blue) and the kits are 40 bucks. The kits include a degreaser, 2 component color and activator, mixing jar and brush. The blue is part number 10272Z. The also have a new aerosol caliper paint that's only 10 bucks a can. Blue is part number 10482Z

Looks like a typical Ebay scam to me. 1. Does he offer documentation that the car was ever owned by BSR? 2. If it were a race car, it would more than likely have been raced in Showroom Stock, as any other class would have had so many modifications that it would be nearly impossible to remove them without leaving evidence. I see no evidence of any type, such as roll cage removal. It might have an engine built by a Z specialty shop, but that doesn't make it a BSR car. Anyone can put a BSR valve cover on their car and make all sorts of false claims. The engine bay looks too original to be anything other than a modified street car. No one in their right minds would put traction bars on an IRS car.:stupid: There's only one way to know the cars history, do a Carfax report on the VIN, contact BSR directly, and make him show proof of his claim.

:disappoin That's the worst part of the frame rails, they always rust from the inside out. If it makes you feel any better, I've sent two cars to the crusher over the years because of the rust that started in the frame rails.:dead: It's like the Energizer Bunny, it keeps going, and going, and going.....

Actually, at one time there were at least 4 companies with convertible kits for the Z's. Origin Designs Hollywood Motorsports (now sold by ZParts) Stramman Transformations As of now, there only a couple... Here's one, which at one time was the VR Engineering kit, which I believe was originally the Origin Designs kit. It's been kept alive luckily. http://www.reactionresearch.com/zspydergallery.html ZTherapy also has or had a video that shows how to do it yourself, along with plans for a full folding top. The old ZCar magazine did an article one the kits back in the summer of 95, as well as a how-to article by Bill Reagan. He built one from scratch and used the cut down hatch for a working trunklid, which most of the kits at that time didn't have. If you look in the gallery, under the username, paul dinnell you will see one of the nicest convertible Z's owned by one of our members. I will however caution you doing this with a V-8 car, as you will need to substantially strenghten the chassis after you cut off the roof to keep it from twisting into a pretzel under the torque of a V-8. I would have someone build a good roll bar, with plenty of reinforcement to the rocker areas, perhaps even a cross bar under the dash tied into the firewall and trans tunnel, and then to the strut towers front and rear. I would also have to consider building a stronger set of floor rails such as you can see on Pete Paraska's web-site. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/ I've been toying with this idea for my wrecked car, but I wouldn't do it with a V-8 personally. Too much stress on the unibody as it is with a V-8, and without a roof, you'd need so much chassis strenghtening, it would end up making the car look like a race car with the top chopped off.

Not yet...... I'm planning on trying the caliper paint from Eastwoods, it's a little expensive, but, if you get what you pay for, I'd rather pay for it the first time. Not sure, but I think POR has caliper paints now, but if I remember right, they don't have as larger a selection of colors that Eastwoods offers.

I think I'd be tempted to either replace the whole floor pan, or at least a strip down the center where you will be welding the new rails on. It looks like the rust has weakened the floor pan for at least an inch on either side of the frame rail..... Maybe it will look a little better when you get it stripped off better on the underside... let's hope it doesn't get any worse.

If you still have the original gas tank, run it down as low as you dare, then pull the drain plug. If you get a lot of rust, scale and garbage out, I'd bet the pickup is getting blocked with garbage in the tank. When you rev it up to high rpm, you are drawing fuel and whatever gunk might be in the tank up to the pickup tube, then, it will stay there until you turn the car off. Since you don't say that the car runs erratically after you shut it off and let it sit a while, that would be one of the most likely problems. If you haven't done it already, block off the water line to the intake and see if that makes any difference.

You would be better off to use the non-turbo F-54 with the flat top pistons with the E-31 head. The Turbo block is the same, the only major differences are the pistons and rings. You will be playing "catch-up" by using the turbo block with the dished pistons, since even with an E-31 your compression is going to be significantly lower than if you used a non turbo F54.

All the ones I've ever seen were a semi-gloss black.

Yup, the rear quarter and roof panels/door frames on all the cars up to 78 meet in the same place. In fact, I'd imagine even the ZX's have a seam in the same basic location as well.

There are sandwich plates available to mount the oil filter in the stock location, and run lines for an oil coller. There are also remote filter heads with gauge ports as well. Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies has them on page 62 of their new catalog. Just don't ask me what the filter thread size is, cuz I don't remember back that far.....:cross-eye

The IT class rules say you have to run the original diameter wheels. You can run the 15x7's or 15x8's if you move up one class to EP, but that jump is a costly one to be competitive in a Z.:disappoin

I can't think of any other way to do it without using an adapter plate to mount the oil filter on, and just use one of the ports for the oil lines to mount the sending unit into. Are you planning on an oil cooler?

As long as the wheels have close to a zero offset, the 225/60's will fit just fine.

The coupe flywheels (non 2+2) are the same. Here's a good place with a little more info. http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Here's another choice also.....The Maxima/810 flywheel is another alternative if you want to shave off a little weight without spending a lot. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

Depends..... If you are using a remote oil filter or oil cooler, why not in the sandwich plate where the lines run off the block. You can find many different styles of sandwich plates with ports for temp sensors, or you could use an oil filter head with the port in it if you use a remote filter. I'd run it off the adapter plate on the block, before the oil gets to back to the pan.

All of the above, with the exception of the Splitfires... get a set of NGK's, Splitfires aren't worth the money. I'd start with the ignition upgrades first, then the carbs and finish with a header and exhaust. A Jet Hot coated header would be best, but may bust your budget by a hundred or so by the time you get all of the parts. Ignition- first choice would be the Pertonix Carb filters would be K&N's, either individual or the stock replacement. Plugs, definately NGK's. Wires- 8.8mm, most any name brand is fine. Exhaust- 2 to 2 1/2 inch with a "Turbo" style muffler Headers- depends on budget. Grose jets and a ZTherapy tune up video and perhaps a rebuild kit.