Zup

Here's a few--- All the rubber gaskets for the air cleaner housing---one (2 total needed) for the inner at the air filter, and one between the housing halves. Not sexy reproductions to make, but no one offers them, and nearly everyone needs them sooner or later when they repaint or powdercoat the air cleaner. The rubber cushion for the clutch pedal standoff bracket near the floorboard. All the rod and ball linkages from the gas pedal to the carbs, as the supply of them in good condition is drying up.

Go to the parts store and ask for a package of the felt washers that are used for corrosion resistance on Battery Terminals. They are very close to the original size and thickness. Lube them up with grease as suggested above. If the red washers offend you, buy 2 packs. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

That is a clutch fork pivot. I ordered it from www.courtesyparts.com part #30537-21010 $4.88 HTH Jim D. "Zup"

I'm interested if the price is reasonable. Send me a PM if you care to discuss it. Thanks! Jim D. "Zup"

I have purchased your boots Pete and I can vouch that they are extremely well made! I have recommended you to others who have, no doubt, contacted you regarding boots for their restorations. Thanks to you Sir, for this great repro part you have made available at a terrfic price! Jim D. "Zup"

There probably wasn't a need to drill them out, but they are time consuming to clean up properly in preparation for paint. Heat shrink tubing from an electrcal supply will duplicate the appearance and function. Jim D. "Zup"

This is on my 7/70 Bill, but I think the routing is the same for all years. The speedo cable is held in place by the flat metal clip you see on the transmission bell housing. There are 2 of them, one on each side near the top (the one on the drivers side is missing in the last photo). The hole the cable goes through can be seen just above the red wire lying on the valve cover and right at the bottom of the shop rag in the corner of the drivers side at the firewall in the first picture. Your cable should have an attached grommet that secures the cable in the hole and prevents chaffing. Hope this helps. Jim D. "Zup"

does anyone know of a shop? As the work on my 7/70 progresses I've come to need restoration services for this alternator. Early type Nissan part #: 23100-A4800 (LT140-53) up to 8/71 26th-Z shows pictures and mentions the restoration of his for #26 and #27 in this post (#19): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread16641.html#post121846 No mention is made as to where the work was done, and the thread (from 2005) contains a mixture of posts regarding early Z parts (not Electrical specific). Also--does anyone have a condenser that matches the one pictured that they do not need? If so please give me a PM. I will try contacting 26th, but wanted to get this in front of a larger group to explore the experiances of others having this sort of work done. Thanks for any help! Jim D. "Zup"

media blast it with glass beads to natural satin---detail lettering with fine grit paper---soak it with Gibbs Brand---wipe off excess I'm not a fan of aluminum paint I'm simple, but it suits me just fine--- Jim D. "Zup" p.s. that front engine slinger is friggin' UGLY----anybody got a nice one they would sell??---

Contact Carl Yeager at www.new_datsun_parts.com While your 10/70 is not listed, he lists many new old stock wiring harnesses for the engine bay, instrument, console etc.----they are very expensive----but Carl may be able to help if you are dead set on NEW. Or, better yet, contact www.classiczcar.com member David Irwin who goes by the screen name "Z's-on-da-brain". He is the recent creator of the headlight relay upgrade that Carl Beck mentioned in the previous post above. David can rebuild your existing harnesses, turn signal and light /wiper switches to "like new" condition for a reasonable cost. Jim D. "Zup"

and a nice stash of parts in the storage bins along the back wall !! This Z is in good hands! Puts real meaning into the phrase--"from the inside out"!! You've gone where few Z owners go. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.

No response here either Taz---:disappoin Charlie confirmed that it was indeed the type he is looking for so I sent it off to him. I think I will try to contact Esprist, as he seems to be well connected in Japan. If that fails, I'll try Kats. I am sure 26th knows what he is talking about, so they have to be available somewhere, somehow. Would be better in my mind to have these rather than dice caps (or Z caps for that matter)--- Jim D. "Zup"

Not much help--- but entered into www.nissanparts.cc search box reveals the following: 32220-78010 Gear-counter 32282-78010 Gear-rev Idler 32242-78010 Gear-1st 32606-14600 Sleeve Clg These are the only part numbers from the pictures that I could make out in your boxes. Maybe if you list the part numbers you do have we can get some more information. Forum member "Geezer" has a wealth of information in parts catalogues, etc. Try giving him a PM (personal message) and see if he can help. Jim D. "Zup"

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ood+adjustment

Thanks to all who replied! Yes I was aware of the "other" use. As I mentioned, Charlie is trying to find 4 of these. I sent an e-mail to Pacific Industries inquiring about where to get them. (Thanks so much 26th for the link!) If anyone is willing to help Charlie out--- (he said he was deducted 4 points on his quest for "Gold" status because of this)--- he only needs 3 more. I am sending him this one as I will never attain "Gold" status with my refreshstoration. Thanks again! Jim D. "Zup"

I had a conversation with Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings the other day and he mentioned that he was looking for 4 early valve stem caps. This weekend I looked through stuff in my storage building and came across this: It is a two piece affair---brass body with rubber cap. It has a logo down near the base with a 5 pointed star on either side of text that reads "Pacific". I don't know if this is really original or not, but it came from an original tire to HLS30-00248. Unfortunately it is the only one, as it was on the spare (175R14). I can certainly understand why these would be hard to find, as valve stem caps would be thrown out as expendable--- without a thought given--- when a change of tires was required. Does anyone have what they believe to be "original" valve stem caps or photos of them? Jim D. "Zup"

Are you running hubcaps? Sounds just like the noise my 73 made when the "grippers" on the outside edge of the hubcap had loosened enough to let them slip ever so slightly as I drove. Took the hubcaps off all wheels, sprung the "grippers" just a little to make better contact with the inside of the rim and reinstalled. No more "sip-sip-sip". Took me a week to figure that out! YMMV---FWIW Jim D. "Zup"

Very nice find! Glad YOU rescued it! I think the ants like anti-freeze and shelter---the black widows like ants! Be careful with the spiders---they make for very nasty bites. Please document the car with close up photos as an aid to original conditions. If you are fairly certain that the carpet and pad are original please make patterns of them. Does the carpet have serge edged cut-outs for the driver and passenger sides? Does the carpet have the spring clip carpet holders? I am very interested in your findings as I have a 7/70 that I am trying to do justice to. Congrats again! Jim D. "Zup"

Just order a new one : Part #: 13267-23000 You'd have to polish it, of course, but the shop that broke your original should be happy to do that at no charge.

Saw this too---nice car, increasingly rare to see. Still can't get a handle on the vertical defrost wires in the hatch glass though. No mention of glass replacement, yet there it is. I'm unaware of any 72 that would have had vertical glass wires as original, although I suppose that being sold in Feb. of 72 it could have been "in transition" from the early cars. Sometimes there are "sins of omission", not a huge deal by itself but it gives reason to pause regarding the veracity of at least this part of the description "All orig glass is in car". If it is original, it adds a bit of character to this 72 you won't often find. I'm interested to see the final pricing in the auction for this car. As there is no reserve to cloud what the seller "thinks" the car is worth, it should give a good indication of bidder determined price for a car that is very original, except for paint, with full documentation. The documentation is the real kicker for me. "Zup" Jim D.

Heat shrink tubing works well for the insulated portion as well. All of the metal pieces have been good on mine, but if I were doing a correct restoration I'd source them from someone's part out of a car to far gone to save. Jim D, "Zup"

I agree---a claybar session will get the paint on your car the cleanest it has ever been. I have done it several times on my Pearl White 90 300zxtt and it really helps keep the paint like new. I've used the Mother's Kit, but bought several of them on sale at my O'Reily parts store when they discontinued it. (seems most folks never use it--not a hot seller) Mainly purchased the kit for the Detailing spray, (love the smell of that stuff!) as the clay bar doesn't get used up. You just have to make sure your car is clean to begin with so the bar doesn't pick up coarse dirt and crap that could scratch the finish. It'll make her shine and smooth as a baby's butt! Jim D. "Zup"

You are proving again that it can be done with your contacts and expertise,which brings to mind once again a question asked before by others---:tapemouth Why did you not persue reproduction of the chrome tailight strips as a separate item!!??!!?? Your repro tailights are extremely well done, but most of us have at least one, and up to several, set(s) of really good lenses with very poor strips. The market is certainly there, as Zed2's poll indicates. I am not disparaging his endeavor---in fact I stand by my statement that if it comes to fruition I am in for 4 sets. But I really don't understand why you haven't undertaken this---heck you've already done it--- but it's in the Premium package that many simply cannot afford. :disappoin The "unobtainium" list will grow smaller. Many thanks to you! :classic: As Carl B. would note: FWIW and as I would note: IMHO Jim D. "Zup"

Tailight finisher clips on the body (4)---they would have to be drilled out at the spot welds Any door mechanism hardware--especially the bellcrank collars (bushings), screw (bolt), washer and nut from the lower rear of the inner door. Headlight assemblies including lamps (bulbs)--especially if they are Koito's. Jim D. "Zup"

All 240Z years used the same tailight (69-73) and are completly interchangable. I am more interested in plastic (or more likely a plateable modern resin formulation) than metal for authenticity, but if the group differs I am still game. Discussion with Kipmotor.com should resolve quickly the pros and cons for either approach with consideration given to cost and durability. My 2c--- Jim D. "Zup" You're quicker than this bunny Arne!