carguyinok

on that post that ozlime240z put up. It starts out ("I learned my very expensive K&N lession over 20 years ago ") A few things have changed in 20 years. K&N was trying all types of filters at that time. In that post he speeks of OIL on A foam filter. Well K&N put's oil on there filters and sells spray on for after cleaning one. A paper filter will catch finer things but will also make your motor work too suck air through that paper. That means loss of power. Foam filters I have A 8 track player for sale too. ozlime240z I am not saying anything bad here. It's just things have changed in 20 years.

I am doing A 73 240 with A chevy 350 tpi & looking @ going with the 700R4 auto. If I go with the stick then the choice would be the Richmond 6 speed. I think going with that crate ZZ4 would be A good choice at one hell of A good price for what you get. The only other thing on that set-up would be. How are you thinking of feeding it? Carburetion or injection? For me it was hands down injection (got lucky and getting back my 88 350tpi from the vette I sold). On the rearend. I know you dont want too hear it but I have been looking into the the jag irs. and scarab used ford t-bird rears. Another stong rearend setup is the IRS from the 70s corvettes. There not "real" hard too mount under A Z. Then its easy for getting rearend gears that will meet your needs. I have seen so much about how the other Nissan rearends will take this power. But where you could see some big problems is pumping 355hp @ 405 ft lbs of torque through the nissan half shafts. Back in the day that was no big deal getting new shafts and other parts for Nissan. But with the years GOOD parts are getting fewer and fewer. This is why I am looking into other rearend set-ups. sooner or later you will twist bend or snap somthing with that kind of power. The other thing I am doing is getting things in place for making the frame work up front stronger. Same in the rear. I have even put thought into doing A whole subframe. but @ this point thats just A thought. I ordered A 8 point cage from jegs and am still waiting for it too show (this week I hope) but that will just sit in the box till the rearend and frame stuff are in place. I know this is on the side of overkill for the tpi set-up. But I plan on just having some fun with it while I do up A real small block with some big HP. Then it will just be A matter of A motor & trani swap. :devious:

I cant say on the Z. But I had both paper & foam filters that I used on my 74 vette. I broke down and spent the money on the K&N. It woke that motor up BIG time. Go for it. IMO you will feel the diff.

No offence taken. Hell you think I never said I " I hate hondas" I prob. said it more then I know. (..but the thing that amazes me is all the hotties that hang out with them?!?) Ha I have known some"hotties" and ta answer that lets just say there IQ's prob. match the plug gap # on that "ricer" 0.45

photo of a photo but this was before

While it was happening - all in slow motion, I couldn't help thinking 'hmmm, the grass shouldn't be at the top of my windshield...', then... BAM, it was over. ya thats how it feels. This was after 4 front over rolls then 3 side rolls with A 25 yard pass. side slide into the ditch. :tapemouth

Hey, atleast you can get too that control arm bushing now. Sorry had 2.

No I understood. I was trying that but it was turning into A gum after awhile then drips:cry: So I have used my 3M remover in small spot's then cleaned it and moved on. It seem too be working well. But it's way too hot out there ta deal with it now. Thanks again.

I have seen some threads here drop into car bashing or ( I hate ) Now dont take this wrong I am not standing up for the "ricers" for ricers are what I hate not the cars. This is A new breed of bonehead :stupid: . There the ones that run around with moms poor old import with oversized wheels and A bolt on tail pipe big enough ta put your fist in. Mind you it's hooked up too the stock 1 1\4 pipe. Now if there real cool they take A hack saw too the springs or just heat um up with A torch till they give up and drop. I spent three years in las vegas (working @ A dealership as there finance manager)10 years with A classic car auction (auctions all over America one every 2 months) and owned my own used dealership for 4 years. I have seen the best of the best and for that matter the worst of the worst. There are some guys out there doing the newer Import thing that love there rides and this shows. But there NOT ricers. They are guys that know what there doing and love what they do. I am A car lover!!! YES I AM CAR NUTS. With that said I still would take just as much time looking over A mint 32 cord as A real nice 2002 full custom honda. Real motor heads dont hate cars. Just the boneheads that hurt them.

From the looks of it I would buy it for the block. I would not put any stock or value in the other parts you would be getting. If you buy it get it home, put it on A stand , and tear it down all the way. Now dont just start tossing parts do it with some care and keep track of where bolts went and so on. Once it is apart then look over the parts and see whats able ta be saved. For the cost of new bearings there is no reason not too just put new ones in. Think of it as insurance. Same with the rings. Take the block in and get it cleaned and checked for cracks. Here again insurance. I have seen far too many people buy junkyard blocks loaded (crank pistons so on) put on A head drop it in A car. Then after A month lose A bearing or some other internal problem. Why do it twice when you can do it once for half the cost? Take it from the been there done that club. Shortcuts will bite you in the butt not far down the road. As ED said about 100. and thats on the high side for me. Hell I just got A whole 240Z with motor & trans for just over that.

Lawyers have ruined the country.:disappoin That's so true it isnt funny. ( it was probably a BIG mistake going to MIDAS.) Yah. But had you taken the whole car in and let you pay them too do the whole job you know thats how they would have done it. Funny they are willing too take the (risk) If there able too milk the big money. But if you just need help or dont have a tool you better not even shadow there door.:disappoin

Thanks for taking the time. My main prob. is all the things that will remove the glue are also able & will burn skin. Not my hands ( there use ta it) but drips getting on my back, head , face and so on. :stupid: Oh. I have my driveline out so no batt. but thanks for the heads up. I have the 3M adhesive remover. Just not looking forward too doing A 3" x 3" space @ A time in order too keep dripping down. It's HOT outside & in my shop with A barn fan on shows 80.:sick:

I had gone with the mallory dual point & MSD Blaster coil with noise filter. It worked ( good ) But I would say if I was too do the 6 over I would go with A electronic ignition set-up. Points are such A pain. :tapemouth

I went & used my drill with A wire wheel brush. It made fast work of the foam that was left. Now I have lil foam balls all over my floor n there a real pain too sweep up. :stupid: This did not do anything with the glue. I am going too try the sandpaper tomorrow after work.

If they are for his 260 (stock) yes front are the same pads 70-78. But I would ask why is he selling them? Did he find some new kind that never get worn out?:stupid:

Ok. I have pulled the old roof liner. Now I have all this foam & glue up there too deal with. :sick: I know I could use A spray on remover. But I dont like the thought of this stuff driping all over me while I am scraping it clean. I also know no matter what its gona be A dirty job but dont need chemical burns on top of the heat of the day here. 101 outside and no AC in the shop:tapemouth . Anyway, Anyone know A way?

If your not getting the clutch hooked up look@ my reply above. But you say it hooked-up once then nothing?

Sitting back watching this. I cant help but wonder why has no one taken it too A shop with A bearing press ? They could press out the old & press in the new before you could finish telling how you do it in your driveway.

I would start by looking where the slave cylinder that bolts on the trans. Sounds like it may have some how mounted wrong. Or stuck open. Early slave cyl. wher also adjustable( pushrod maybe too long). Thats the easy list of what I would look @ before... well look there first. :tapemouth

Just looking over that list makes me want ta get my 350 tpi home. Ahhh. I can feel it.:devious: