madkaw

Adjust the rod as stated above. Some rods have a longer "nose" on it- the part that adjusts out. My Wildwoods were the same way when first installed.

And get your MAP SENSOR going to look at those numbers.

Chris, looking at your curve numbers seem conservative to what I run on my MS. At WOT or full loading I am at 37 degrees by 3000. No dyno to say whether I am where I should be, but the butt dyno says -close:)

This man speaks with great wisdom. That 71 is no where close to handling 400hp without $$$$ in mods- brakes, suspension, safety. 200 HP would be fun for street and track and cheap while you shake down the chassis.

I guess I forgot my little bit of electronic knowledge from school. I wonder if the locomotives I drive have these type links for those 1200 amp surges

I guess I would wonder why anyone would take the effort and time to deal with fusable links unless you were stuck on Only doing Oem . Time and effort to do an updated fused link of some kind that doesn't leave you guessing - what's in the wire? Just IMHO

The Felpro gaskets aren't bad , but not as easy to cut as straight paper. They are graphite impregnated and I have had no issues cutting them. The biggest issue I have had is them getting damaged in shipping to the parts store(autozone). I usually order 2 to get one good one

Still enjoying clean air!!! This really has enhanced my Z driving experience. Windows down and 70mph is a joy. I did also find some small exhaust leaks in my exhaust system around some band clamps, which I removed and welded solid. I think I was smelling this when I was rolling up to a stop. Though my hatch seal still shows leaks using the fog test, they are very minimal and I can't smell them. The remedy there might be an actual Nissan seal;0 So if you are dealing with smells, there is hope. first thing I would check is the hatch panel. Think about it, it's been there for 40 years and very possibly been removed at least once-probably by you---so seal it up!!

All I can say is---- OMG that's a lot of work.

This is one reason I am currently working on a FG option for a dash replacement. Our options are expensive or a PITA like the problem you are dealing with now. I will eventually start a thread on this when I get a little further on this option. My FG guy has a dash now and we are discussing the next steps! I know you can use a heat gun to flatten the plastic or mold it if that is an option.

Clean your engine thoroughly until it is spotless. THEN starting trying to find your leak.

Chas, thanks for the info, didn't realize there was 2 versions of the BWT-5 in the USA(didn't read that on hybridz:)) I will have to see what version I have. To the OP, do you have the right DS for this set-up ?

Por-15 is a good product, but as Jeff stated, it still requires lot's of work. You shouldn't bash a product if you didn't take the effort to do it right. Just saying it was terrible says nothing.

Ummm, you posted this on hybridz right? CZCC is an awesome site, but the better wealth of knowledge on swaps is on Hybridz. Looks like the diff has been welded, might want to google pro's and cons on that.As I posted in Hybridz, have you addressed the issue of the driveshaft and the diff flange? Yes a 3.54 would be better, but you seemed insistant that you weren't going to do a diff swap! Where's the diff if you have everything else from the zxt? IMHO, the 3.90 would be a mistake with that trans or with a turbo motor-especially both. Don't worry-it only costs time and money-

You are at a crossroads. You could try additional glasspacks midway in the system, but not sure if it will quiet it down much. You won't beable to find a chambered muffler that will easily mate up with the system you have now. Your best option might be to sell off that system completely and start over with a single pipe system with a premuffler and muffler for quieter results.

Actually the piston tops look pretty clean too. It would be interesting to do the seafoam treatment to see how it cleans up the pistons- if it does

Are you beginning to think you bought the wrong car?

I have never had much luck with the classifieds over here so I posted on Hybridz-sorry guys, don't want to leave you out. E12-80 Dizzy/coil Kit and other misc. items - Parts for Sale - HybridZ

N-27's will run plenty rich enough. Don't worry about fuel pressure for now. More effective would be a volume test of the fuel pump.

Zed, not trying to get picky, but you said you had 22 total in your dizzy(last line). This confuses some people. You have 22 degrees total of mechanical advance+ 12 degrees static timing=34

Cliff, You --are getting confused valve timing has been advance , not ignition. Two separate issues . Set your ignition to at least 14 static

Most 240's have the wiring already for an electric fuel pump, you just need to find it and activate it by completing the circuit. There has been thousands of posts on this, but pump location is up to you and there are many options on pumps. I run a RX-7 pump-quiet!

Adjusting the mixture nuts does not help your WOT issue. They are for fine tuning. If the fuel is not available there's nothing to adjust. Not sure why you haven't adjusted the floats yet, but at this point maybe you should give it try?

In all the threads I read about exhaust fumes, I never read about my issue. The hatch vinyl panel inside the car needs to be sealed against the hatch. The low pressure makes for a nice vacuum chamber inside the hatch if this panel is not sealed and it will suck a lot of air right thru the latch assembly. There is no good way to seal off the hatch-latch, because the air goes right thru the guts of the latch. Plus you have the two big grommets in the end of the hatch also. This was the fix for my issues. My exhaust is even with my valence(no bumper) and the smell is 98% gone.

Did you even read the first post before answering-