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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. Early e-88 like this? How common are those heads in Oz?
  2. Those chambers look nothing like my E-88 Pretty !
  3. Any pics of the combustion side of the e-88? Did you alter the advance on your 81zx dizzy to get only 30 degrees advance? What's your measured CR? Sorry for all the questions but it's in the details that we learn:)
  4. I missed the throttle body part --COOL. I'm doing just the opposite with MS running spark only for now. I'd say your leaving HP on the table with only 30 degrees total timing. So the E-88 would be the MN47 over here correct? Keep posting-good stuff
  5. Your signature says Megasquirt with that motor ?
  6. What timing are you running? Wouldn't a set of triples do you better also?
  7. I wouldn't hesistate to fix that with JB weld. You can reconstruct the shape easily and leave a hole. Believe it or not I did the same thing on a SU carb. In a pinch I hung the float with one side of the pin and some saftey wire. It actually lasted a long time and I broke the whole pin tower off.
  8. madkaw replied to mjr45's topic in Help Me !!
    Everyone is going to want to know what you did the first time to try and remedy this. Now my buddy kind of went thru the same thing with his 75 and it was the dizzy. Basically the plastic guts of the dizzy fell apart which screwed with the timing. After he fixed that it was a different animal
  9. Ran into the flooding issue on my Mikuni's and it was the needle/seat was not tight and caused fuel to go around the threads instead of being metered. Check for tightness--after you fix the float
  10. JB Weld it. It doesn't have to be strong, but the JB Weld will stick and hold up to fuel and you form it, drill it-whatever
  11. You might try the Chicago z club. I pretty far south in Indiana or I would be glad to help out. That is probably a 3 hour drive for me.
  12. Well I figured out how to get some pics loaded. As you can see there is a ton of wires to go thru on this project. MS does a good job of labeling each wire -but you better grab your readers and a magnifying glass when your old like meLOL I elected for 8ft harnesses which seems to get me just enough. MS also offers 12 ft harnesses, so depending where you mount the ECU. Mine is mounted on the trans tunned by the heater panel. The schematic is very legible but if you are new to wiring, you will need to study these. I will never be able to use ALL the wires in both harnesses, but there are a huge amount of flexibility and options with this level of ECU. It's almost ridiculous I am only using this much capability for just ignition right now. This system is capable of 12 injectors, boost, NO2, ect... I actually eliminated probably 20 wires in an effort to have only one harness running thru the firewall. First was developing the power circuit, which many later models have. In 1971 there wasn't any relays on these cars. Get to know relays, they are the handiest electrical item on your car. I actually took the power circuit(refering to getting power to the ecu from the ignition with fuel failsafe) from a 83zxt that I parted out. The car was a showroom piece that had been totaled, but the wiring all looked new. So I stole the two blue relays with holder and spliced them into my MS. The fuse box is a 6 circuit that works well for the MS. The reason you see two of them is that one is for the MS circuit and the other fuse box is just for powering relays for my headlights directly from the alternator. The MS gets it power directly from the battery which helps cut down on NOISE in the electrical system-which is bad. I decided to go with COP(coil on plug) ignition for quicker charging and stronger spark. The coils(D585) are basically truck coils with have their own heat sink and are considered smart coils. The advantage here is that there is less wiring to control these and they are the hot and CHEAP set-up for a hot ignition. I made my own bracket and bought a complete set of coils and wires from craigslist for cheap. I just modified the original harness for it to work on the L6.
  13. Chamber size around 39cc ?
  14. N-33 intakes for SU carbs should bolt right up to your E-88 HEAD.
  15. Like to see the numbers replacing that n42 block with a 54 flat top block. Very good numbers!!
  16. Doing junior days at Wisconsin and Michigan ----really son, we need to talk
  17. My son I'd considering michigan for college. I pointed out to him how much you guys got this year and asked him to please pick a warmer college for his parents to visit;)
  18. One more round and hopefully good weather. I've resorted to watching my own you tube video so I can enjoy my car WITHOUT being able to drive it.
  19. The ceramic coating is pretty effective in reducing heat so you can probably forgoe the sheild, IMHO
  20. It would be too hard to call with all the undercoating on there. The floors look pretty solid. I was expecting to see holes by your description. Start scrapping!!
  21. All I can say is that's good head
  22. Thanks Lenny, I'm just posting this install to give the folks here some general knowledge of aftermarket ECU and the work involved. I'm gathering you saw my thread at Hybridz-MS3X install. Long way from yet so i might be needing some advice. Just now to the point to get my laptop to talk to my ECU. I think what you are doing is very impressive-keep up the good work!!
  23. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38680-custom-battery-cables-diy.html
  24. Try Daniel Stern( yep, the actor) lighting, he is a dealer and a nice guy . That's where I bought mine
  25. Thanks Bo, I have a thread started over there now and have been getting help. Not many starting from ground zero, but the theory is all the same. Yes I LOVE my Mikunis, but ready for this century grass roots motoring. I have to finish my plenum first to get to fuel .

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