madkaw

Looks great

Didn't you say it ran better without the vacuum advance? Now without it you won't get the ignition advance you normally get at cruise with light throttle advances. Not sure what numbers you are running but you might want to advance your timing with the vacuum part disconnected and see how it does.

Been the float route already. The Mikunis can be adjusted with a screw from outside the carb . It didn't help the lean spot on transition no matter how high the level. I haven't revisited that option now that I have done the bleed pipes. It might add a fine tune option. I think there is a limit to how precise the tune is with carbs. If I didn't have a wideband to stare at I would probably be happy with a powerful rich mixture. Now I'm obsessed with my AFRs and my Z :0

Your running a " stage 2" cam also right ? I have a complete set of jets too Did a long drive with the 70's in there today. With the bleed holes plugged and the 70's I noticed my AFRs get near 12ish at 75mph - eek. So I went in an 1/8 turn and that bought me a whole point. Now a steady 13- 13.2 at high speed cruise. With the 67.5's I achieved 15 at that speed, but put up with the "bobble" in transition. Carbs=compromise

Mitch, Using bpr6 and running T bleed pipe. I get no back fire on decel and never have with all my settings. You are not going to get any better AFRs going with smaller main jets. Your 390 gearing is going to put you in the 13 range because of rpm . I see you have bumped up the pilots. Surprised your not up with me in the 70 range with your L 28. Bigger pilots will tan those plugs up and might get rid of your back fire. Timing might also help with decel? What rpm is the backfire? My MS has timing way high at low load- maybe 45 degrees, but I didn't backfire with the ZX dizzy either

Newly rebuilt engine with loud tapping noise even at idle?!!?! - Page 3 - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ

So after some practice I figured how to solder close some of the bleed holes on the bleed pipe. I tried a lot of configurations , but what seems to work is closing the top 4 holes. The effect is like a smaller main air jet in that the main jet reacts quicker . I tried all the smaller main air jets and it didn't have the same reaction as altering the bleed pipe. I have also learned that there is no way around the fact that these carbs like to run rich to run best. Yes I could stick a small pilot jet in for a long trip and run 16afr at cruise, but it would bring back the transition bobble. Best power for me right now is Pilots -70 about 2 turns Main air 200 Main jet 150. This puts the AFRs lower then I like at cruise 13-13.5 - 14 depending on gear and rpm . Taller gearing would help for cruise but then I couldn't break the rear tires loose in second gear by slamming the throttle:) I would also state that a different cam would have a completely different outcome. My Schneider cam seems to make great power down low- thus the big pilots!

Been running that set-up for about 15K miles and the cam looks great-EXCEPT for the lash pads. Have the rockers checked(if came with the kit) for flatness or the surfaces being parallel. I have had odd wear because of this issue. Doesn't seem that spring pressure has hurt anything though I have read that it is high relative to stock nissan or other cams. I dynoed 155RWHP with my L24 with this cam. Great low end and pulls hard all the way to 7K

I don't know if there's a best or just one that might be better. Chamber design got better with the later heads as in the P-79 or P90. It's all in details though. You really need to study some threads over at Hybridz in the FAQ section under drivetrain or engines. Several good threads concerning the different year heads and how to modify them. Look over there and your line of questions will get more specific with more understanding.

My glasspacks just gave out and the drone is back:( Going with Magna flow 4" mufflers instead that are SS. I'm not much into the harsh raspy sound. I like my current Magna flow mufflers with the additional glasspacks. Before the packing gave out the sound was deep and rich. I'm hoping the SS mufflers last longer and quiet things down.

Combustion chamber design! The N42 head is an open chamber head with no quench pad thus not a great match for flat tops. Pretty sure Nissan knew that so they matched it with dished pistons. If you really study some of the "pundants" of the L engine over at hybridz they sneak out some tid bits of Lagata power formulas. 'Squish'( piston to head clearance/distance) is essential for fighting detonation and there are zones to avoid. The 42 can be made better with some welding and reworking, but there are better alternatives like the p-79, p90 early Z heads like E31 or early E88. Then there's timing curves as Leon mentioned. It's all in the details. I would consider a different head, especially if the one you have needs rebuilt. Spend some money on a different core and rebuild it. Then you can use a stock Nissan sized gasket and not worry so much about pinging. The CR numbers don't matter much if you can't run aggressive timing.

I've brought this up before with the SU's and that's to check the hoses from the float bowls to the carb. I had hoses that would collapse with heat and thus make the engine run lean. Probably check while engine is warm and feel the hose for flat spots. Timing check is a must. Battery condition and charge

So what's so different about them besides the 1.5" outlet. Is the small outlet producing the sound you want? Then have someone just cut the ends off and weld on some 1.5" pipe.

Why are you stuck on 1.5" outlet? That's going to be hard to find alright. The interior looks like a typical glass pack that I've seen. My glasspacks have given out and the drone is back:( I'm going with magna flow 4" round mufflers with SS mesh construction - hopefully last longer then the 20$ glasspacks

I believe MSA sells the Z logos and caps also

Well your can't be right because your engine is DIRTY. Is is the angle of the dangle here guys. The manual is very specific at 11.25. Cliff's pic looks straight up high noon, but is it the angle of the camera-don't know. But when someone tells me 11;25 and I'm there at high noon-I'm late

That's the way I know it

I used that stuff on my daughters ZXT when I made her 3" exhaust. Expensive but good!

I kind of found that out doing my control arm bushings(outer rear). You can't just slap those urethanes on and hope it's right. I'm going to play around with this for a while. I like how quiet my running gear is now-except for the banging now and then. Once you have things tight under hard acceleration and gearing there is no noise or banging to speak of. It's the changing of the loading on the M bar that is noticable.Besides the fact that it took a lot of effort to install those stock bushings-

The center steel bushing of the M bar rubber bushing is surrounded by a layer of rubber almost all the way to the ends. Don't see how the washer is going to come in contact with any metal.

Drop the pump if it's not right. So you are at TDC #1 right? Not sure of the relevance of the other stuff.

...and you could have had my whole set-up for 200$

OR you can buy what's behind door 3-- I'm selling a complete set with base and coil,module,cap,wires,extra module,harness,,,,,,

I should have put one washer on each end of the curl instead of putting both on the bottom. I would want the inner steel bushing to be centered right? With both washers on the bottom the bushing won't be seated against one of the washers if I am thinking correctly. It was easy to just add the washer on the bottom but the top will require dropping the M bar clear of the stud

I will have to drag out my r200 bar and compare it ( thickness) with the r180. Hell I don't even remember if I still have it now that I think about it. I realize there are a lot of reasons for clunking and thuds and thunks, but I think I have experienced them all. I've had loose gland nut clunk and the loose diff nuts that clunked and of course the diff mount. This noise is different and like I said earlier it seem to come about when I did the STI swap. Zed, I did have 4 large washers that are about 1/8" thick each. This really compressed the rubber . Now when I stick a pry bar in there it hardly moves. I didn't get a chance to drive since I have to work. I also didn't do it right . I put both washers on the bottom, so I need to re do that which means dropping the M bar.