madkaw

My understanding is that the 3ohm coil eliminates the need for the resistor. I could wire it back in but have doubts that's the issue

Just did a Pertronix ignition swap on a 72 automatic trans. It had the dual points dizzy but I swapped out with a single point before doing ignition swap. Engine runs fantastic, but I've lost the tach somewhere in this . The auto has additional wires that might be part of my issue. I did away with the ballast and tied those wires together . They seem to have no bearing on whether the engine runs or the tach works- which kind of confused me. The autos also had this relay set up for the secondary points, not sure if they are tied in somehow to the tach . Any insight would be appreciated

It's like tire material -steel belted radial type. Thicker than the original

I fixed my ears on my front carb- pierced them with new holes. Tired of trying to set the float tang for the wrong size needle and seat. Got out the drill and punched new holes- didn't even measure - I was pissed it was taking this long to set flit levels. I have been using the "Float Sync " tool I bought but had a few issues with them too. They don't like gas in them too long I guess - but other than that- pretty handy Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Blue stuff looks a little weak compared to what I just installed from Z car depot or the stock one I took out. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I can see it right now in this thread? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I just installed the stock strap ( new) with new mount on the 72 . I saw the strap mount bolts ( large ones) were going to be a PITA with the amount of tension on that strap. I had the diff out and had the diff mount mounted-( mouthful). I pulled the crossmember and bolted it to the diff mount and jacked everything in place at once. I used a trans jack and it was quite effortless . I didn't see anyway I was going to get that strap in with the diff there. I was actually impressed how snug and well it all fit and thought - why the hell I did the RT mount. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Well the front suspension is done and moved on to the rear . Same story as up front with dry poly bushings, and throw in there a totally separated front diff mount . The original arrestor strap did its job and kept the diff at bay. Found a few bolts not torqued and a bad spindle pin, but everything is repairable - and almost done. All new rubber bushings back in and stock mount and strap for the diff. New spindles all around . Hope to have it her own her own legs today, but will see. Half shafts getting new universals and boots with the main driveshaft also with new joints. Can say enough about how nice it is to work in a rust free machine. We haven't had to replace hardly any hardware and it still looks good too

Just looked it up and looks the same for both versions- get er done:)

Though there are different versions , I believe most need a pull up resistor for a VR sensor. There are also pots to adjust inside on the board . It's a steep learning curve but you'll get it . I've been told the ignition is the hard part with MS , fuel is easier .

Fog machines are cheap and a great way to find those leaks. That's how I found the hatch panel leak

Just noticed that link went to just the manual . Go to section 5.2.2

Not sure what version you have , but it needs to be set up for a VR sensor to read your crank sensor. Both hardware and software needs to be addressed . http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.html this might get you started . It's a steep learning curve and I have to review it myself. I set mine up years ago it seems, but going strong. You might have to play with the air gap to. I run a hall sensor which may be a bit different , but I think the board is set up the same . Just noticed this thread , sorry I didn't chime in earlier - trying to restore a 72 in my spare time- lol. Feel free to PM me . I haven't touched my MS for a long time, but it's been dam reliable I guess

Jealous

The booster repair shop I talked to said the Bendix boosters were pretty good about getting parts for. All I did was tell him what part was bad and measured for a replacement . You might be able to do the same.

Is yours repairable ? A lot of boosters the vacuum seal on the rod goes bad and it won't seal. I called around and found a replacement seal for 7.50$ . The rest was just cosmetics Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Sent a PM, never got a response Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Love everything but that spoiler - no pun intended - . It needs color. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Regular pump gas? So you willing to run premium grade?

I am going with Rebello plan just for all these reasons. Better rod angle and Pistons choices. He seems to cover both by offset grinding which gives a journal size for eagle rods. Too much sciencing for me , so I will leave to the experts. I am happy to put all the pieces together which will save me some monies:) Your CR seems a little conservative especially if you go bigger cam- which I would assume you will. I'd bump it up a whole point if that's the case-

Yes I was referring to piston height , but sounds like you have it covered . So these will be custom Pistons or did you find some that worked from another engine to get that pin height?

How are dealing with the 3mm

Yep-just 5 is all I have

Buddy had an old fuel pump and bingo we are back in business . I guess running that pump without the spacer did it in. Also got the plug out Leon with some serious heat. Now to put the exhaust back in and fire it up Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I might have 5 - don't ask me where the 6th one went -ha. Let me check the shed Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club