madkaw

Rear suspension is done and I drive her down the highway yesterday !! Despite no door seals , hatch seals and a leaking muffler - it was a bit of a victory drive. Fumed out a bit from the lack of seals and a rich mixture didn't wipe the smile of my face at 65 mph More tuning to do and some temporary seals will make the ride even better. The engine ran very strong though it's lack of maintenance should say other wise . The last original engine component - water pump- gave out shortly after the highway run. Too much rust to injest and it threw it all up in my garage over night, Hopefully the rust treatment for the block got most of the nasty stuff out . Time to drain and put antifreeze in. Transmission shifts hard from 1st to 2nd gear, but I guess that's better than slipping into gear. Other than that the auto box works pretty damn well. Might need to take it for a fluid change and band adjustment - even that can be done on the Jatco.

Metal gasket won't do much but cost more and won't fix any overheating issue. Get head checked by a qualified machinist / engine builder Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Another run with better results. I set the needles flush with piston , not groove. I'm 2.75 turns out now to avoid lean pop, but there's more power there to be had. Going to drive it around like this for a while. Also not running air filter so that leans things out. I've seem to have lost the captive nuts for the backing plate - if anyone wants to sell some. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

And when I say over flow I mean shooting out the air vent Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I guess it was too big of a tweak- . Backfiring happens during tip in under load at lower rpm. Might need to play with timing a little. Not running a vacuum advance at present since this dizzy is a d6-12 with 24!degrees mechanical advance . At present running 12 static . I'll be back at it today Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Mark, The carb overflowed after trying to richen FLOAT LEVEL. . Just did the 10 turns down and seeing fuel method to check float level. Went out for another spin after putting piston needle shoulder flush with the groove. Engine pulled harder but have run out of sunlight until tomorrow. I know I have run the needles like this on my car before with good results (SM) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Need some tuning advice so I'm tagging on to this thread . SU's idle good and drive decent , but getting some lean spitting out the carbs. Pulling on the choke eliminates and adds gobs of power . Already 2.5 + turns on the little L24(stock), but it wants more. SM needles installed , timing checked, idles too good for vacuum leaks. Plugs showing rich idle but lean white burn on tip. Big question for me is where the shoulder of the needle should be relative to the piston. Flush with the groove or flush with the bottom of the piston. Float levels have been checked numerous times. Just tried richening them up and overflowed one. Help me

I went the easy route and just bought WCR axles

Did you replace the rubber lines? Rebuilt calipers are like 40$ a side, just do it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Delete !

Very fixable if you have amazing talent and a frame straightener and lots of time. That's hit hard Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'd have to re- read my own thread to know for sure . No resistor in the wiring for sure. Okay, looks like I put a 1k at 57. You need some pull up resistor somewhere . You could try in the wiring first, but somewhere you need one

There's discussion on both VR sensors and hall sensors . MS made it hard for me to differentiate between the two, so I thought any reading on the subject was good. There

Never mind - the link doesn't show on the CCZC app , but here it does

Okay- so I have tried to add a link and it doesn't show up . Chris, I had started a thread on MS forums on this issue and I am trying to post link, but I don't see it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yeah, but with a disclaimer -, didn't work over 4K . I should have read more carefully Chris Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Ready for prime time! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Let me rephrase that statement- WE figured it out- thanks for the help guys. So if someone was to ask me to help do this I would say - Forget all the wires but the two black and whites and the green and white( this is if eliminating ballast and automatic thermo relay) Get your ohm meter and find the black and white and green white that has continuity. Take that black and white and put it on the positive terminal of the coil. Take the other black and white and solder it to the green and white . Done . What I did wrong! Disconnected everything and started from scratch . BUT I also looked for 12 volt source with all wired disconnected . When I did find 12 volts wire I used it for positive coil . I should have used the other black and white. Hope all this makes sense Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Okay- figured it out . Wrong order in the current trail. Had wrong black and white first going to + on coil . So swapped out other black and white to positive side of coil then other black and white connected to green and white and viola! My confusion is when searching for 12volts ( all wires disconnected) ,I found black and white and hooked it to coil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I've been searching how to measure at the cam lobe. So you try and get the dial indicator on the rocket at the cam lobe ? I will see if there's enough room to get in there. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Well that didn't work. Lumens-!was this an automatic trans car? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I don't know- most everywhere I have read and seen it is using the retainer to measure off of. I've also read it is important to have the dial indicator in line with valve angle - nothing else. BRAAP on hybridz has a nice thread on degree ing a cam which he shows the dial indicator on the retainer . I believe the numbers supplied are not correct , but open to any ideas Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club