madkaw

And when I say over flow I mean shooting out the air vent Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I guess it was too big of a tweak- . Backfiring happens during tip in under load at lower rpm. Might need to play with timing a little. Not running a vacuum advance at present since this dizzy is a d6-12 with 24!degrees mechanical advance . At present running 12 static . I'll be back at it today Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Mark, The carb overflowed after trying to richen FLOAT LEVEL. . Just did the 10 turns down and seeing fuel method to check float level. Went out for another spin after putting piston needle shoulder flush with the groove. Engine pulled harder but have run out of sunlight until tomorrow. I know I have run the needles like this on my car before with good results (SM) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Need some tuning advice so I'm tagging on to this thread . SU's idle good and drive decent , but getting some lean spitting out the carbs. Pulling on the choke eliminates and adds gobs of power . Already 2.5 + turns on the little L24(stock), but it wants more. SM needles installed , timing checked, idles too good for vacuum leaks. Plugs showing rich idle but lean white burn on tip. Big question for me is where the shoulder of the needle should be relative to the piston. Flush with the groove or flush with the bottom of the piston. Float levels have been checked numerous times. Just tried richening them up and overflowed one. Help me

I went the easy route and just bought WCR axles

Did you replace the rubber lines? Rebuilt calipers are like 40$ a side, just do it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Delete !

Very fixable if you have amazing talent and a frame straightener and lots of time. That's hit hard Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'd have to re- read my own thread to know for sure . No resistor in the wiring for sure. Okay, looks like I put a 1k at 57. You need some pull up resistor somewhere . You could try in the wiring first, but somewhere you need one

There's discussion on both VR sensors and hall sensors . MS made it hard for me to differentiate between the two, so I thought any reading on the subject was good. There

Never mind - the link doesn't show on the CCZC app , but here it does

Okay- so I have tried to add a link and it doesn't show up . Chris, I had started a thread on MS forums on this issue and I am trying to post link, but I don't see it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yeah, but with a disclaimer -, didn't work over 4K . I should have read more carefully Chris Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Ready for prime time! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Let me rephrase that statement- WE figured it out- thanks for the help guys. So if someone was to ask me to help do this I would say - Forget all the wires but the two black and whites and the green and white( this is if eliminating ballast and automatic thermo relay) Get your ohm meter and find the black and white and green white that has continuity. Take that black and white and put it on the positive terminal of the coil. Take the other black and white and solder it to the green and white . Done . What I did wrong! Disconnected everything and started from scratch . BUT I also looked for 12 volt source with all wired disconnected . When I did find 12 volts wire I used it for positive coil . I should have used the other black and white. Hope all this makes sense Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Okay- figured it out . Wrong order in the current trail. Had wrong black and white first going to + on coil . So swapped out other black and white to positive side of coil then other black and white connected to green and white and viola! My confusion is when searching for 12volts ( all wires disconnected) ,I found black and white and hooked it to coil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I've been searching how to measure at the cam lobe. So you try and get the dial indicator on the rocket at the cam lobe ? I will see if there's enough room to get in there. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Well that didn't work. Lumens-!was this an automatic trans car? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I don't know- most everywhere I have read and seen it is using the retainer to measure off of. I've also read it is important to have the dial indicator in line with valve angle - nothing else. BRAAP on hybridz has a nice thread on degree ing a cam which he shows the dial indicator on the retainer . I believe the numbers supplied are not correct , but open to any ideas Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'll make note that we think error is with Isky because he did the same to me as far as supplying the incorrect cam card with the cam. I have dialed in my cams using the retainer as the measuring point. Schneider had no issue with this method but warned of faulty numbers because of the inconsistent rocker arm ratios . I try to be careful to get the dial indicator in line with the angle of the valve . Reading are only done at .050 valve lift which in my understanding is the standard to method so help deter the ramp effect . The other problem we are seeing is that cam lobe center numbers don't add up to the card based on my math, but I am truly a novice at this . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Lumens , I like this diagram since it puts the tach back in series with the coil. I will try it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Certain combos caused some twitching of the tach but usually the engine wouldn't start . I can wire a complete MS 3 unit in my car but this is messing with me.