madkaw

You should be fine with stock timing

Not really true on header options. A square port header will work fine on this head. It’s going the other direction -square port head to round port header- that doesn’t work. Yes the sweet e-88(E) heads we don’t get here, this is a nice compromise .

This is why butt welding gets tricky. Unless things are lined up perfect you can find yourself patching in gaps . I would recommend Cleco’s - you’ll wonder how you did without them. I learned my lesson with these panels - only cut off what’s bad on the original panels. Removing all of the old panel all the way to the inner rocker panel is usually not necessary , usually not much rust all the way up there anyway. I didn’t hardly catch this issue when I did mine. It made the floor slightly off level

IMHO - 44 for your engine size . If it was a bigger liter motor , or you were planning on spinning it way up high rpm , then maybe bigger valves . Can you go too big - I doubt it , so no time then the present to cover all the bases . Quite sure you can buy valves from Rebello - and he would give some free advice since your buying ?

I feel worried for my kids ( 22 and 28), for what they have to deal with . And that’s from every side. Liberal, conservative , it doesn’t matter. There is other issues like global warming , a smaller more connected world, and many other things that our unconnected , ignorant bliss life didn’t have to deal with at their age. The times - they are a changing ( confusing) - sing along.

I have a very clean cylinder head from a Maxima for sale as is , or build to suit. If you don’t know much about these they are a very nice option for a Z motor. Small well designed combustion chambers ( approx 40cc) with a nice quench pad to help resist detonation . It has exhaust liners , but they flow great unless your building a race motor. If you do some research you’ll find it makes a sweet little hot rod head for your block. The MN 47 head came with the bigger 35mm exhaust valves and has 42mm intakes . This head will work on any Z block , the only exception is that a stock L24 block might need to be clearanced on the exhaust side. I can walk anyone thru that detail. These heads are drilled to except both carbs and EFI. This particular head has been pressure checked, checked for flatness and has VG guides and valves in it now. You can literally pop in a cam and springs and go! Or I would be willing to do that also. Or put the bigger 44mm valves in this head and drop it in your L28 block and make a killer motor. This is one of the cleanest heads I’ve ever owned . Almost zero corrosion and clean as a whistle inside. Some good reading over at HybridZ’s about cylinder heads I am currently building this head for my L28 build. Ported and bigger intake valves! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39134-big-and-nasty-headwork/ So buy it as is or let me build you something . Contact me for details or more pics sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

20 gauge is probably closer to the gauge of the exterior sheet panel panels , but you can get 18 to work also. 16 gauge is flooring thickness . There will be quite a big difference in heat and difficulty in welding. Welding a bead will be tough with 20 . It will be slow hand and lower heat . Above recommendations of many spots and connecting the dots after words . Bounce around when doing a panel to disapate heat. Short beads after welding slots is good, but let things cool a bit before laying a bunch of beads . Practice !

You mean it IS being used?

Get a box end wrench and a dead blow to simulate an impact wrench. Put wrench ( box end) on the bolt , hit wrench with 3lb dead blow to break bolts loose. It might take a couple of tries . I leave the spark plugs in to make the engine more difficult to turn over .

It always bothered me that there isn’t an indicator on the dash to verify I am in 3rd gear and not 5th. Just because I push the shifter further over - how do I really know that I am in 5th and not 3rd? Just because I follow the pattern on that stupid little knob doesn’t mean I have actually changed anything

Is that also the small exhaust valve too- 33mm ? Are you having any port work done?

Nice combo ! I’m jealous . Great combo of small chamber and square port exhaust !

I don’t get this thread. Why are we arguing the science behind a device that is so widely accepted in the industry. It works - use your time for something else IMHO

Yes the heater needs to heat up the sensor so the initial readings might be off. Containment’s will ruin a sensor . Coolant from a HG failure will do it for sure, but oil will ruin the sensor too.

Some how I ended up with a set of the rear quarter ends that were cut off #777 I believe . The owner was selling all his extras and why someone would have cut off good corners I’ll never know, but I’ve kept them just because it would be hard to fix that area. Though my 3 Z’s are all good in that area

I think you need to just open your wallet and get another AAR valve. I didn’t know you could adjust them, but yours does not seem to be working correctly. It sounds like there isn’t proper movement of the valve - as in , not enough, which might not be adjustable . 1000 rpm cold is not too much- if not enough really.

Disconnect your brake booster and purge canister also looking for vacuum leaks

If the AAR valve is only open a sliver when cold then it is not working properly. The thermotine switch is a ground for the AAR so it has to work correctly . Do not put AAR in any water . The AAR should be fully open when cold and close slowly with voltage . Ohms tests with the EFI bible will show this. Sounds like you also have a vacuum leak

Like Zkars said- it’s all about the size of the brake MC booster unit getting bigger and causing the spacing of the holes in the firewall to change - this changing the spacing - this changing the alignment of the rod going thru the firewall - this screwing up everyone’s day

Make sure you are on compression stroke if you are checking chain stretch using the cam marks. I usually find something to stick in #1 spark plug hole that will pop out easy when you are turning over the engine and it builds compression. My favorite hole stopper is a large vacuum plug shoved into the spark plug hole. Believe me , you’ll know when TDC compression is coming. as far as the pulley marks, if you look closely , one V mark is bigger then the others , that’s TDC. Use the crank pulley to turn the motor

Get yourself some Cleco’s , it will help you very much in this endevour . I posted a thread many moons ago about installing the pans - it might help

Well NO LEAKS and a happy owner ! It wasn’t that simple of course. I talked the owner into a new timing chain because the sprocket showed abnormal wear - especially for only 30k miles. And the owner still says swears it actual miles. When installing the new chain guides I found the reason for the abnormal wear. It was odd that the chain was stretched but the tensioner was fully seated and the reason for that was someone put the wrong length bolt in the thermostat housing which actually pushed the straight guide out a couple of mm. Of course the new chain guide bolt holes didn’t line up because there was a bolt in the way. Anywho, the engine runs fantastic - for a stock L28 with an automatic. I put a stereo in his car because I had to flush his heater core and change hoses anyway. The car rides really quiet even with worn out seals. It really is a nice car. I went over the owners house to say hi and pull a spark plug and the burn was perfect. The owner is a little disappointed with the power output and the auto doesn’t help, but he admitted that it was a fine sports car and liked the way it drove. He’s already asking me about power upgrades .

Date?

I think Branson Missouri - no?

So did they announce location for 2019?