240ZX

Or.......fabricate two 3/16" T x 1" W x approximately 5" long aluminum straps with through holes on each end. This will also keep the chain away from the engine parts. Also, do yourself a favor and use one of those adjustable angle riggs....it will make getting the engine/tranny in or out much easier by allowing you to adjust the angle of dangle! Tom

Now thats being resourceful! However, a problem I see is that your metal plug is now creating a water trap. If you must use the metal plugs, install them from the interior side...and as you mentioned, use some type of sealant. This way you can leave the tabs as they are and you can easily remove them. Just my opinion.

I think I'd take a look at the HKS website............the unit for sale looks nothing like a genuine HKS unit!!! Gogriz-91, I'm guessing its a cheap knock-off.....no wonder its a RARE unit! Tom

Yah, you read it right.....just had a senior moment:stupid: .....my mistake and appollogy to veritech-z!

Just a small correction regardings veritech-z's comment about offset. Positive offset is when the mounting flange is closer to the hub and negative offset is when the mounting flange is closer to the outside of the wheel....not the other way around! Tom

How about a friggin passenger with a video cam!!!

Age does really make a difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mmagnus, Outstanding job you've done on the 1970!!!!!!!! I'd have to say your Z is easily worth $20k on the open market. Someone, provided they realize whats being offered and has the green, is going to get a super cherry 1970 240Z. Knowing what I know and having gone through the process myself, I'd give you $20K today.....that is if I was looking to buy. You know....you may want to reconsider selling your Z! Shoot, just put it in long term storage for about 10 years, and by that time it will certainly have appreciated and you may just find that you were glad you didn't sell it to begin with. Again....one sweet 240Z!!! Tom

Overall gearing difference between a 3.90 and 4.11 is only 5%. I see you have a 5 speed in your Z so, either would be OK. Of course tire diameter will certainly effect gearing. In my 1970 with a ZX 5 speed, 235-40x17" rear tires, and 4.10 LSD R200.....@ 70 mph the engine (N42) is turning approximately 3000 rpm. With 3.90 gear I would be turning approximately 2850 rpm. Hope this helps a bit? Tom

Congrates Eric! Always nice to receive a little recognition. Tom

I lean toward what 240ZMan has mentioned. Generally speaking on any pressurized oiling system the less the resistance to flow is, the lower the pressure will be. Simply said, if you had no resistance you could not obtain any pressure.

I'd have to agree with Arne's analysis.....throwout bearing! Those suckers don't last forever, especially if the clutch is improperly adjusted or if one tends to ride the clutch pedal. Tom

A toad with a slightly more appealing face....but a toad non the less!!!

I have to agree with Dreco......the entire car! For over 35 years these cars have not lost their original appeal. I'm sure you all get thumbs up and looks every time you take your pride and joy out for a drive. Tom

Well, as a general rule.....with the diff level, fill it till it starts to pour out the fill plug on the cover. Tom

Welcome to Classic Zcar Club zedric! Great site, great people, great cars, and tons of information available. Just a note....the search function is your friend. It provides access to information on the early Z cars, on just about any subject matter you may be interested in learning about. P.S. If I remember correctly, Finland has some of the most beautful women on the planet. Again, welcome aboard!!! Tom

Might make a great project car! But as we all know too well, and especially a Z from Colorado left in the weather, the rust monster is going to be present.....the question is, just how exstensive is it? Hard to tell without an in person inspection. The good news....its a 1970 or at least an early 1971. Tom

Pretty funny..............one went home for lunch!!!!

Mike, Datsun originally install a round DATSUN badge on the front/center of the early Z hoods. It protrudes about .250" but does not look like a gunsight. Many people remove the badge because it just clutters the clean lines. Hey, maybe the PO was an old wing gunner in a flying fortruss and wanted to remind themself of the Good-OLE-Days! Tom

Come again????:stupid: I'd have to agree that the lines of the Z are what cought my eye! It was my senior year in high school and the first time I saw one of these beauties, I knew I had to have one someday! They definitely had the EURO look....couldn't hardly believe that a car this good looking could cost so little. Well.....13 years later I owned a 1970 240Z. I've owned the same car ever since. Tom

Well, it seems as though a multi-meter and test probe are going to be your best friends here! Don't you just hate it when this stuff happens? My best advise is to go through and recheck all your grounds first and then look for any fried wires that may be intermitantly shorting. Check the relay too as a power spike, caused from your reg short, may have damaged them....maybe! These electrical issues can drive you to drinking! I would think that someone else will jump in and add some advise as well. By the way, welcome to the site and keep us posted on what you find! Good luck. Tom

What Arne said is so true! Regarding doing the measurements on engine components......there is more to it than just mic'ing a part. There are specific areas and measurements from different angles that will provide you with the correct information. So as mentioned, if you do not have the specific tools and experience to do the task....take it to a reputable machine shop that does this work on a regular basis. Tom

Jon & Paul This may be of interest to you guys. On my 1970 with 1" front bar/200 lbs springs and 3/4" rear bar/275 lbs springs I was getting a loose coming out of lower speed tight corners...which is what I mostly do while playing in the Z on the street. I decided to see what would happen by removing the rear bar, as it was a suggestion by one of the Hybridz guys. So, I removed the rear bar and the car is now tighter and can exit these tight corners much quicker. Anyway, I'm much happier with this set-up for my needs. As we all know, there are many other variables that contribute to handling as a whole. Tom

I quess the first question I would ask is.....is a differential cooler allowed in his class? IIRC, there was a good write up by someone on HyrbridZ about this subject. I may be worth looking into. Tom