Daniel

Ever have an old fuse just pop for no real reason?Being it is made to be the weak link,they just wear out after time.Same with the zener.Thats why your home has mechanical circuit breakers,They are more forgiving.My point was each time you jump a car incorrectly it takes a little less "mileage"away from the zener.As for your neg to engine question,That is because the battery gasses are combustable.When the connection is made you do not want a spark to be made at the battery that could cause it to explode.You make the connection away from the battery to eliminate the danger potential.

With the post about Internal or external voltage reg.I share this info. The external unit uses a mechanical relay that turns the voltage from the alternator on/off to the battery.The internal uses a zener diode or avalanche diode as it is sometimes called.This is a small resistor looking electronic unit that acts as a relay.When you use jumper cables to start a car with low battery,the "good battery"car senses a charge is needed whne the cables are attached and goes into charge mode.Once the low battery car is started and the cables are removed that voltage must go somewhere.On the mechanical unit the relay opens to stop the charge mode.The internal unit passes it thru the zener diode.Its a pretty hard hit that the mechanical can handle.The zener,not as forgiving,takes a beating.The way to save the zener from damage is simple.Turn off the "good battery" car before you remove the jumper cables.This will save premature failure of the internal VR.

Most small glass cracks soon become large cracks.I think that headlight is on borrowed time. They somehow manage to break completly when you don't have the time or desire to fix them.Like the night you start your vacation roadtrip or the middle of nowhere on a rainy night.An attempt to band aid with a cover won't change the end result.Removing those headlight buckets for the first time after 20 years is a pain on a good day when your ready for it,It damn sure won't happen in an auto store parking lot.

There is an old saying that the only way to eat an elephant is one mouthful at the time.That said try to take a bite daily or a few on saturday.When you've had your fill for awhile walk away from it.Also I have found a trip to a Zcar show always makes me hungry.Perhaps you will have similiar results. As for you statement about $2 gas,It's not using any!!In a short time we will have our own middle east oil field and crude will be about $10 a barrel,not the $38 average we have now. Are ya hungry yet!!! Have fun!! Daniel

If you have access to compressed air its a great time time blast it thru the metal line in each direction.Of course you dont want anything connected at the tank or filter end.That can remove rust scale that is in that line.Draining the tank is a good idea,but be careful.If you happen to have a gas water heater in your garage,find another location.The pilot light can ignite the fumes.I have a friend that found that out the hard way when we were kids.

Before you try kmacks suggestion,I suggest pulling the coil wire off first.We know they normally don't start on a bump,but better safe than sorry.Hate to here you shot thru your garage!!

What the hell is a front tail light?:stupid:

Bart ,While there are true stainless braided hoses,there is also a hose cover,I think nylon or plastic weave, that give that look without the price.Most auto zone/napa type stores carry this.

I vote NGK also.

Put the car in first gear THEN while still holding the clutch down move the shifter to reverse.That should stop the grinding.If the shifter doesn't want to go into reverse,put the car in neutral let the clutch out and back in and start again with first.Let me know if this helps. Daniel

He must be a very nervous individual to have slid around and caused all that seat wear in such short time.Perhaps someone should tell him he can still get that same great flavor in a decaf.

AGREED!!! That cathode will zap you hard!! Sort of off the subject but lately I have repaired about 5 cd players for friends.The problem is the drawer either opens intermit or not at all.The fix for all of them is to give the spring on the back of the drawer one turn to tighten its pull.In the days of vcrs only about 3 companies made the parts and all the numerous vendors just changed the case and applied their name.I'm starting to think cd's are the same since the units I repaired were various,jvc,sony,etc.

I agree with Owen.Thats why I was curious of the problem.Most failures in electronic are often just a poor (cold)soldier connection.I have had very good success in finding those in alot of items.My best was a 27" picture in picture stereo TV.The picture was purple and was given to me as junk.On the circuit card one resistor moved when I wiggled it.20minutes laterI have a super garage TV!!

I would suggest a visit to your public library and save that money for your project car.

Whats wrong with it?

Standard house power is single phase.Normal commercial/industrial is three phase.There is no two phase.

Hey Smokey!! Go fish!! There's one that should keep you awake at night!!

I can't speak of that system but,I have learned through the years exhaust is better left to the pro's with the correct tools.The old rust frozen bolts,rust in your eyes,and the fact I don't crawl on my belly like a reptile as well as I used too.The man with the correct tools will be half way done before you can get the jack stands in place.One more tip I have learned the hard way.Have the muffler clamps installed upsidedown from normal like this--U-.That way in the future when you do have to crawl under your car they don't hurt you. Daniel

They are a bitch!!In fighting with that and the dip stick tube I have found once the vise grips fail you must remove the oil pan and tap it out from the inside.I used a socket that fit the hole and hit the inside lip of the tube. Just a "what if"but,what if you put something that has very close to the same inside diameter into the tube.Drill a hole thru the tube and the insert,put a nail or such to act as a pin thru the hole.Fashion a slide hammer using dumbell weights or such on the pole you added.Just a thought. That tube is tapered.Once it moves, it will fall out.Its just that first movement. Daniel You could also add a radiator clamp behind the pin to reduce tearing.

Buy new bolts and have them plated.That way the chrome will match.About your concern about the new ones rusting ,remember they are 30+ years old.Add to that I doubt your redone Z will be exposed to anywhere near the weather that it has been in the last 30.

I think the stages has to do with pressure not voltage.I'm sure someone will enlighten us about that.As far as wiring requirement that will depend on the unit somewhat.Allow me to explain.People think that the reason for the circuit breaker is to protect the attached device(A/C,refrig,TV ,aircompressor etc.)The fact is it is to protect the wire that supplies the device.Most homegarage type compressors I have seen are usually 240v/15 or 20 amp. 20 amp =#12 wire =20a breaker.If the run to the panel is too long a voltage drop occurs.Then you may need to run #10 =30amp.This is not a complex as it appears,just read the info plate on the compressor to determine your needs.

I have posted the differences here before in detail.The short version is the lower amp is 240.The higher amp is 280.I would go 280.I don't think there is an external difference.No problem with the gauge.It's the perfect swap.One of the main reasons I like the 280 unit is more were made and they are newer.Therefore the the reman. units have have been through the reman cycle less times .They are usually more available and sometimes less expensive.Make sure yours doesn't just need brushes.Thats a simple fix and you don't have to take the unit apart.

The last paragraph of your post says it all.Learn to fix it yourself.Read a book,take a class,If you're young enough get a summer job at a garage.The education will save you a lifetime of grief.Not to mention if you can work with your hands you can always find work.Knowledge is freedom.

If the rubber brake lines have never been replaced or your not sure if they have--ITS TIME.If the rear wheel cylinders have not been replaced there is a good chance thats your problem.I would suggest replacement of them instead of the rebuild kits.If the brake shoe adjusters on the rear wheel cylinders is not working the first pump could be putting the shoe in proper position,the second puts it against the drum and makes you stop.When the brake is at rest the shoe pulls back to the "too far" position.Then you must double pump again.

Once again we need more specific info.Tried to bleed them?What does that mean?The better the question the better the answer.