Daniel

Back then you could still find good unit in the boneyard.

A friends dad was doing an old tank.He put whatever cleaner in it,put some large rocks in the tank,sealed all the holes,Strapped it on the hood on his riding mower and cut his yard,turning it every so often to a different angle.When he finished it was polished on the inside!!The vibration and the stones did a great job.Just make sure the size cant get hung in those baffles and make sure you get out the same number you put in.

I fought a similiar demon on a 71 years ago.The problem was the brake booster.I had been told that if it failed the results would be you would just have no power assist for the brakes.That is not true..I tried the same things you did,with no success.They would not bleed.Sometimes hard,then soft.I took apart that front /rear valve.It was a ball and a spring.Your problem seems very similar

Lots of nice fall days are great for a z cruise.A trip to the mountains or the evening or morning will make you wish you had that heater.Your wife/girlfriend will want it also.It cost nothing to run,not like A.C..I see no benefit in removing it.

I think I saw that guy yesterday.I said look dead bird.He looked up at sky and said WHERE!! :stupid:

O.K. new theory.Use a cardboard box and duct tape.make a duct that connects the box fan to the INTAKE of the fan and attach to the window,the fan is now outside the car.With the fan on high ,now drawing air from the car,Use plastic wrap, like from the kitchen and cover an area at a time letting static cover the opening where gasket are supposed to be doing there jobs.Now we have negative air flow.We would think the wrap would respond as to the problem areas.---Just a theory---

What the status of the rubber pieces that seal the shifter/tranny hole?The theory is "what if" you lay your seats forward and put one of those 30" or so box fans in the car.You would seal the window where the power cord went thru.With the fan on inside the car you then go around the outside of the car seams/openings with soap foam.Wouldn't we think that we would see blowing bubble or some activity at the leaks?----Just a theory.

Some Z's came without the bracket for a rear sway bar.I found this out when I got a msa/front/rear sway kit.Thanks victor for the photo so I can see what I need to do.Texasz I thought of putting the front only on until I got the rear info I needed.I was told that they are made to work inpairs.So even if it fit your car it may cause poor results with the front unit.I'm sure someone will put more lite on this.

If you like what you have find the same one with less miles.Then you have a parts car when the road beats up your new one.

After YEARS of fumes I loosened the catch on the car that the latch catches.I pressed down on the rear hatch and opened the hatch.I then moved the catch down just a fraction as pushing down seated it to the top of the latch.That made sure I was securing at the bottom of the latch.I now only close the hatch with a window or door open as the pressure seal is so good.NO MORE FUMES!! As the new gasket seats and the natural movement of the car this will be required again at a future date.

I just happened to recall I had a friend with a maxima that had that problem.His was intermit bad electric fuel pump.Perhaps you could by-pass yours for a test. One other easy and cheap test is replace the capactor.Its rare but I have also seen those give intermit trouble before they fail .I once had a dist.cap with a hair line crack that gave me that EXACT trouble.

Yes,the wrap will kill a header,done that.Wrapping the fuel line is good----until it gets hot in the wrap then it holds the heat IN!!My experience with Vapor lock alway occured after sitting for a while on a hot day.If I could get a nonstop run down a highway for a short while it would clear up.I NEVER had the problem while the car was moving over25 or 30mph.I could run interstate all day with the outside temp at full summer,no trouble.If I got stuck in traffic the car would act sick but,it didnot shut off.Idont think thats your trouble

With vapor lock the car will idle.It just runs like two spark plugs have no plug wire attached when you try to move.It surges.Are these you symtoms?

I had a feeling that August 5, 2003 was going to be the last time Lance tried the kit.I don't remember my date but,I do remember the day.You're better off!!

Al,I know your pain.There will be days when two steps forward,one back will be a GREAT day!! It's a love /hate kinda thing when you play with old toys.Walk away sometimes.Lotsa steps forward is this website.From one that has been through it without this tool,you don't really know how far ahead you are!!:classic:

Sounds like you found the trouble.Just wanted to give you another check.Is the pump really pumping?I rebuilt a head once and forgot to put the cam that runs the mech.pump back on!:stupid:

I'm doing this from memory and its been some time,here goes.There is somewhat square unit behind that air reg. When you remove the cover there is a gear.Mark the location with white paint. loosen the holding screw while holding pressure on the gear.This is the can't remember part.You either move it two teeth clockwise or counter clockwise.I did that for years on a 280 I had to stop that cold nature.You must return it to your paint mark before inspection or you will fail emissions.

There's you're answer lance.Even if you have to swap the lines,If you don't do it now you will do it later.I see it as a cheap insurance policy.$25.00 will stop you from looking for more expensive and less available front end parts.

Yes ,rit will work.Mix it in a cup and use a small brush to work it in.I have known people that used that vinyl spray.It has a flex agent in it that holds very well on that nylon strap.

Unless you are knowledgeable in honing out and polishing the interior of the cylinder,I would suggest buy a unit that is reman or new.Perhaps your luck is better than mine.I tried the rebuild route on wheel cylinders,master and clutch cyl.I think I had about a 60 percent success rate.They all worked great for a short time then failed.Myself,I don't waste my time on that anymore.At least a reman has some warranty.If you install a kit and it fails you are back in your pocket.I'm sure you understand when I say you darn sure want every chance that master cylinder is as correct as it can be!!!

Sorry for getting long today.The meter will have an adjustment on it to vary the flow to the gauge.This will allow you to "tame"the meter to the middle range.When doing faster rpm test you do it again because you are pegging the meter with more airflow.Did you take the tops off "the carb bells"and clean the piston and housing?Nice to start fresh or you'll do it often.

You have to follow the steps exactly to set tune the carbs.I'm glad to read that you're not afraid of them and are more familiar.I followed the haynes book instructions for years and one day it was like the light bulb came on and I understood the need for each step.As for the center of the sync gauge.I would assume your meter would need to be in the center also,thats a guess.I would keep perfecting your skills on the tune.A colortune my help but if you are just turning screws and knobs hoping to get it correct I doubt it would provide much benefit.No shortcuts,Take the steps from the top and keep practicing.Thats how everyone else learned.You can't help but get better each time!AS for the knarl nut.Remember the needles that are attached to the piston are like a "v" they seat into the tube that the knarl nut raises or lowers.The lower you go the more fuel is give at idle.The more you raise it the deeper the needle goes in and therefore less fuel is given at idle.Thats why the choke causes the tubes to drop.That makes it richer..When the car is given the gas the pistons rise so high that at that point the knarl setting has little effect.Thats when the other adjustments come into play.

In 1988 my wife worked witha girl that had a new '88 maxima.She broke the antenna off in a carwash.I got the part from nissian and she paid my wife.She was to get together with me for the replacement.She then had a leak at the windshield and tried to fix it with black silicone.Ugly looking job.She then left the job and we didnt hear from her again.Now here it is 2003 and a friend comes over last night and wants to show me the maxima he bought to drive while redoing his 240.Its not bad he says except someone did an ugly job trying to repair a windshield leak.I bet the antenna is broken I said.How did you know he replied?'Cause I have the replacement mast in my toolbox!!!The repair that was started in 1988 was completed last night.Small world huh?What are the odds?

I fill mine up to just below the lip of the piston that you see when you look into the top.When you put the sticks back in it will push out any excess.I use marvel mystery oil or autotranny fluid every now and then because the excess that runs out cleans the gunk from the piston body.I also have replaced my sticks and carry the old ones in my car.I heard of a guy once that one of the plastic screw tops broke and left him stranded.AS we know you would never find a replacement in a hurry unless you had it with you.

I hate to add salt to the wound but,I think those faces are keyed to the unit.That way you can't interchange them.My thoughts are the factory will send you a complete refurbished/factory repaired complete unit in exchange for your less than --plus some cash.They roll off a line all day long.Its cheaper, easier and faster to swap than worry about your individual unit for repair.