Daniel

Seems that lately we have had a few of those.Guys we damn sure know what makes ourZ's NOT run.A hidden switch is an excellent thing for all.Those of you that are rewiring your baby will never have a better chance to hide a wire in the new harness.Be creative! The only problem is you cant tell anyone how clever you were!

Im not the 280 man but,will it turn over?start?The real question is do you hear the common relay for those click when you switch the key on?The amp gauge is not relay powered.

The connector is called a barrel type.Radio shack has them.If you did have a wiring short ,it would show itself regardless if the wire was connected or not since all we want is ground.I would first check the new sending unit.Put a meter lead on the thermo housing and one on the sending unit connection.There should be some resistance but,not total continuity.That sending unit acts sorta like a light dimmer in your house.It varies the amount of ground to your gauge.Does the oil pres. part of the gauge work correctly?

That rough idle may be caused by a air leak at your turbo charger!!! ROFL ,

Afew choices.The plugs can be removed by driving a screwdriver thru it and pry it out.Kinda like the plug on a new can of brake fluid.Finding one that size may be an issue,I don't know.To replace use a socket that is the same inside diameter and tap it in.You could just by-pass that entire carb/water thing.It is to heat the intake during cold weather.Most do that.In your area it may be good to have.You could drain some coolant so the plug stays dry and apply some jb weld.Use the 24hr dry stuff not the jbquick.That would be the easy attempt. Also just an FYI ,the plugs are called freezeplugs by most people even the ones on your block.They do kinda serve that function but,its kinda by accident.The real reason for them is during the casting of the part they are an exit point for air and sand during manufacture.

Some info. I read stated that the plates inside the battery will scar (their term not mine)when it runs down.It will never charge back to full again.Each run down = more scars.A marine battery also known as a "deep cell" is made to run down without damage and will fully charge back up.As best as I can recall the heat is what deep cells die from and is the reason you don't have one in your car.

My shine program went like this.After hours on the wheel with the polish stuff my valve cover was still foggy.I went to the man that does my chrome and has the gorilla polisher.Can you beat this I asked.He smiled and said HELL YEAH!,hit his wheel for about 20 seconds.I found I had wasted ALOT of time.He charged 15 or 20 bucks.I did the intake and carbs.I filed the metal off from the seam on the side of the intake.I also took it to a friend/welder that filled the small little dimples on the intake near the engine that collect that little crap that only a Q-tip can get out.I used a dremmel to grind it smooth.You wouldn't know it ever happened.It stays clean now.Since I no longer use most of the crap on the balance tube between the carbs,rather than just plug them off,I had my friend fill all the holes and I sawed off,then ground smooth all the mounts.My balance tube only has the one brake booster connection.The great thing is once you get it slick you just wipe the motor clean!! I never could get my photos online but 2many Z's has the photos of my car that you would like to see. Perhaps he would be so kind if you ask.

I don't have my book but off the top of my head I would say chassis ground.There is also a frame ground.With all the rubber and moving parts between the two a few common connections are needed to keep the same electrical ground potential among all parts.Remember your lights that are on that fender need a good ground to burn.

If daily is to a work location and some running around sure.If you are a traveling salesman--no.I drove mine daily for a couple of decades.Just like any old car they do require attention at times.Since the ground up resto. on mine it is now a true daily driver.When I do drive it it's for the day!!

I have read that alot of those parts that do NOT have the grease fittings are that way to give a lifetime of service.Let me explain.If you add air to your tires each time you change the oil just because you felt they may need it ,they will wear due to over inflation.If you hit the grease fitting's in the same way you will blow out seals and cause early failure.Like you said all it took was two pumps.How long does that take to wear away?.Stick to the manufacture's rules.Those quick lube places are real bad about grease overload.Ujoints will die.

It's the first part to get the blame and the last part to really be the problem.I vote coil to be second normal wrong turn.

Notice your car does not have the slim "unleaded only" plug in the fuel filler ,it has no cat.conv.With the Z filler being that large is proof as it is obvious it wasn't torn out.Also your gauge doesn't read"unleaded only"

A few more places to check.The oil plugs gasket and the oil filter.I have seen an entire oil filter gasket stay stuck on the block also pieces.If someone isn't careful they will add another gasket with the new filter.(Toyota's are bad for this).A clean inspection is always best ,but a trick is to throw baby powder on the oil covered engine and go for a short ride.The oil will show up and your car will smell goodROFL

White smoke can mean a bad headgasket.Check your radiator for level and color.Also check your oil dip stick and make sure its not a greyish "wet clay" looking.

You said you replaced the coil but what about the coil and plug wires?Are BOTH chokes working correctly?Points and plugs new and set. Dist cap and rotor.Myself ,I would want the car running before making big changes.The pertronics would be fine since its like a point swap.My thinking is when the "new and improved" doesn't crank it ,now how many problems did you just add to the mix?

Just a couple of thoughts.If you have carbs,are the chokes fully off when you think they are?.Remember chokes love cool/hate heat.That my be your temp. problem.Also I would guess your rubber brake lines and wheel cylinders are in about the same status as your clutch parts were.Going is great,stopping is better!!

I would speak to the shop doing the work before I ordered anything.You would hate to hear --Well we use this other product and can't guarantee yours.The less headaches the better!

You say NEW motor.I don't know if that means the same and rebuilt or different.Either way I would make sure the lobe that is supposed to be on the cam is installed.This is what moves the fuel pump arm.Pull off the pump and check for it.It is like a out of round over grown washer.If not its easy to put on once the valve cover is removed.

I have a 4 row rad. and run a 190 thermo.I have had this setup for years,no trouble,the engine loves it.I do have the flex fan and therefore have no fan clutch.My stock rad. was made into a 4 row at the local shop.I think perhaps your fan clutch is bad/weak.I think I read that when the car is at normal temp (and of course OFF!):stupid: You should not be able to turn the fan very easily by hand.That means its engaged.The other thing is perhaps an air bubble is not allowing you to put in the proper amount of coolant.I haven't had that trouble with my 240 but,I have a jeep that needs to "burp" two or three times after you refill the thing from empty.Also make sure the channels between the radiator tubes are clean.I've seen mud/grass block the flow although those were off road cars.I have also seen a thermostat installed upside down cause trouble.I'm not sure if that could be done on a z.Timing too far advanced I believe can also cause temp issues.

MIke, The ends you are after are commonly called Molex connectors.As it is the company that first made them.They are available at Fry electronics,radio shack has some,most any electronic shop.If yours are still good they can be reused.The connectors in them have a little metal tooth that locks in to hold it firmly in the molex(white)housing.There are extraction tools available that will allow you to remove the damaged connector and replace it with a new end that will lock back in place.If you want to experiment ,the round connectors are unlocked by sliding a tube around the outside to push the lock tooth down.The flat require a small flat piece of metal to push down the lock.Look at the replacement connectors and you will see the locks I speak of.

I would replace the cap/point/cond. also.As they wear it obviously increases the distance between the contacts.Sand can clean them but wear is wear.Just a note,I have a master mechanic friend that says sandpaper is not advised.He says the adhesive that holds the sand to the paper can stick to the part you sand.As it gets hot and burns it becomes an insulator.I use a metal diamond nail file I took from my wife for points and a wire brush for plugs.

Being here deep in NASCAR country I have been to many open house parties that the teams have.I have always found it kinda funny that in this hi-tech world the majority of NASCAR teams use 1/4 inch plywood in the floorboard.It doesn't transfer heat and also does slight noise and floor vibration reduction according to those that build the cars.

George,on raised areas like that the trick is to use a cigarette filter.Spray some chrome paint into the lid of the can(a small amount).Touch the filter to the paint.When you touch the raised area the paint adheres there only!.The strength of the filter stops it from going anywhere else.It took a pack of smokes to paint my brake lines under the hood.It also works great on the datsun emblem on the glove box door.I found touch lift and move works better than touch and drag but,whatever works best for you.

More radiator won't make your engine run cooler.Thats the thermostats job.What is the problem you wish to resolve?Keep in mind cooler isn't always better.Too cool can be bad for performance.Perhaps a plastic fan shroud is you answer.

Yeah thats the ones.I was doing it from memory and now recall the one clip/stop piece are from my '46 chevy truck.They are all pretty much the same though.Now you start banging as I stated before.