RIP260Z

This carries on from a old thread; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/22164-260z-in-japan/#comment-188206 As HS30-H says in the thread, the Japanese market 260z sold cars were recalled, so I presume anything specifically related to this model, the Fairlady 260z, wouldn't have sold in any great quantity. Well, I spotted these on Yahoo auctions Japan a few weeks ago, and I presume these are for this recalled model;

Its my understanding too. I don't think Nissan would have added such a large undertray to the z432r otherwise. If my grey cells recall, Ben240z (on UK forum) I think there are cut outs in the inner wing, on his race car, sort of where the battery goes, so the air entering the engine bay has a place to escape too...

So the thread is balanced, other brands are available!

The other option is a harder aftermarket polyurethane bush one side, a OEM one the other. Give a better feel, but without putting the rod under undue force.

I would look at somewhere that deals with Weber DCOE, Mikuni PHH's etc as a point to try.

Boat anchors, far from it! Looking at https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60309-were-bringin-back-the-flat-tops/?&page=8#comments HMB46 needles, depending on market (and what has been found so far) are N61, N62 (North American found) and parts microfiche (Europe) N56A, and I have pulled out N57 marked needles. I suspect HMB46 needles could fit into the HJG46W round tops... whether they work....?

I've been watching the other videos of My mechanics, restoring vices, lamps, door bell etc, all thoroughly good.

Off the top of my head the -P71 suffix part number indicates it could be for the s130z, though i can't quite remember what range the P numbers are, but its not S30.

HI Kats, As an owner of very late production RS30Q (10th last from what I see) which I gather was manufactured in June 1978, these late 260z's (as we sometimes know them as) came with the 3.321 1st gear, as the diff ratio changed from 3.7 (pre 8/76) to 3.54. I hope that helps

The 2000GT Toyota book by Shin Yoshikawa has got more expensive since I brought mine. I found this one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/364146024429?hash=item54c8cb5fed:g:IPcAAOSw3mpXNJAd&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OaBR0phfqczh36fQyyL167ViMLn0kKm54coGG8dR2PomHStpAUc5aOINtubbRLfarj5lxyBmPl8aAIeXdYzUQsHjdUwdrIrXBe0sTWrEHL3rM%2BkKTC3jy3%2FLTcCzA4ExzoTinlSSvQNCDQYVlkFt358LtjxsSD74V%2FWpKzJEdJX6ADiBRZOaFKXxVwY2%2BR1cB0Vcx%2Frt%2BZSC9z2YRbWzHxYi%2FqYFQgkRmVDAHIK9cxRr51x48p7XestP9btG4rGl%2FYzStLvz7CPwgAjOSUxbhUwRu1zfB7vvRZDBMjhsbG%2F|tkp%3ABk9SR77iv9b5YQ and there is another one for sale in France with a $850 asking tag.

Good luck with that Florian. I have had the same convincing people about the not designed by Goertz for the Nissan CSP311 Silvia, though its a little bit more tricky as he did have a small input (which doesn't mean he designed it - supposed C pillar angle change). People aren't easy to shift. I had Toyota GB do an article on the Toyota 2000GT, saying Albrecht did it, even though I pointed to all the evidence needed is in Shin's brilliant Toyota 2000GT book, which is well researched. All I get is quotes from various magazine articles as "proof" when we know they have put little research in and skew their article to their readers. Geortz seems from his autobiography to have been in a design desert since the BMW 507, having designed nothing of any note after. The odd ring, things like household goods, which doesn't float being in the spotlight of design....I think he attached himself to the CSP311 and the 5 or 6 other car designs as his, or put it so that the ear of the listener thought so, to get back in the limelight. A bit sad.....

I used this horn restoration kit; https://www.ebay.com/itm/165791931442?hash=item2699f81c32:g:jk0AAOSw0z5hnvDB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBlTiF8rlJ40nO36Pb8FhL4LPM70GQBmmyyFDt7miW5qeMPhF28RtFCzrQCMH9Oa0daMCxajPII0Rd8dP8AXnywkgbNAeDRC2amtxJGx1xLVaqRTO4mebkwfRxbJAE6NLZ7naC5%2BGlCZywKtQgVkRQvd3taAJl2vmbb7vebgzN%2BbTI3r8hTBcnzRap1aLfcvXIaRKiKGbOSh7HTJVE2NSdjJ6H5wcNeRxw%2FqcAV3bs6%2FoGhmFQLyd%2BoA9dfvmiZt9A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_zhr_vvYQ

With the '71A gearbox, it was fitted to the U20 engine in the SR(L)311 roadster, and also fitted to the early S30, but the bell housing was different, as the starter is on the other side. As the North American market didn't get the 5 speed from the factory until at some point with the 280z (whilst other countries did from the start of the S30 production run) someone was just joined the rear roadster 71A rear and front Z bell housing. My take on it.

Another example of similar stying in the 1960's was the Datsun SP(L)310 and the MGB, with the usual western dribble of Nissan copied MG. In fact the Datsun was shown at the Toyko Motor show BEFORE the MG at its launch show, so, MG copied this model Datsun then?..... Simliar thing watching a Wayne Carini (sp?) program with someone "knowledgeable" from one of the presigious auction houses whilst discussing a Toyota 2000GT they were driving/looking at, that American German bloke was mentioned as the designer...more damage done...

I have found that when I have large parts plated (headlamp holders, door mechanisms etc) having it all aqua blasted first (water and glass beads), gives a much more consistent finish. The person who I use adds an inhibitor so rust doesn't start. It obviously gets rid of the dirt surface corrosion, but it may find (I'm guessing) it helps to get rid of impurites, which tend to "leak out" during the plating process. I know there is some washing at the platers prior to plating, but in a sense the parts get two cleans.

HI Kats, My only thought (maybe wrongly) that having a flat thick washer means the clamping force is spread over a slightly larger area, giving a greater grip. I presume a non moving washer would "bite" into the wheel, giving a better grip, whilst the spinning washer will keep moving until the torque/pressure from the nut finally holds the washer firm..... That is as far as my logic goes..... As a side note, Kobe Seiko produced a tapered seat on their later Magolly wheels....

On my usual Yahoo auctions search, I came across this; A unused S30 wooden steering wheel, showing the original yellow brown colour as it would be from new. It seems the Japanese company had this as a sample, as it looks like (from what I can gather from clicking on the internal link) is the company restores these types of steering wheels, the S30, P510. @kats anything you heard about this from fellow Japanese S30 owners? https://www.jauce.com/auction/e1041624080

Go with both, stock wheels and hubcaps/wheelcovers for shows etc, and aftermarket wheels for the drive. Or even widened stock rims for the drive, with the hubcaps off.

Fantastic! Thank you.

HI Kats, How is the date read from the Nissan Temperlite etch please? I have the etches on the CSP glass, so it would be interesting/helpful from that side. Thanks.

Just spotted these on Ebay.com....flat top power valves https://www.ebay.com/itm/334629795756?hash=item4de97d77ac:g:VjoAAOSwj4BjdIky&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4FVCSz9%2FvNlhfOv7Yy53IbMusp5GFkUZu95KUSsN1h53lDrpB38mIoJqEyEINkh%2FVBiiEwKVROPbfa0s4sxccyxfMUfYCvbkLG8I85wDEW9aI36c6enorqKx1AHw9EI%2FbelNZIzoEscLAu%2Bq3LRAZoQE9YoPqFJw%2BQQULM1TpnVJBp%2B0%2B8Wnk%2B11ML1qqHLQALOf6qrnLhNzbnFIRFJvsdi2XZ1hsN7DZz3KsjhH7ZLVPhZePCbUSLAe1FzFPCwNqS9Ae03jBRdAL1s5Vmem3ZhEdENqLdAM7KNaf7f2AhY7|tkp%3ABFBMopu03ZBh and https://www.ebay.com/itm/334629220773?hash=item4de974b1a5:g:tTwAAOSwZdVjc9V3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4BlJ6I1NH9x6hbbgb5112TEK0mohoTheifko6pM1Wpl8NIjJjgQKb4kUluyApb2rf4LmPjr4bs7J6WqycrFllzVrXpVdwVDLgwgHaQiOHas0bLeKZwrsxK7%2BpZkYiDr9lstDNxBHtXfnglrolNGB9teRgd4FferFcb%2B%2F1nE8DH6cbe4gLWxWHYrVqWsSonEawFjW6J2HK4tpYNJm%2BETPASV1MOsH1m2ZExRixznGiW2fYbpP1%2BqYoSCXA4zup5V%2Bpg7rlbQOczgL3rqQTObIpqUxfVpT0o10R18eHTIm5Onj|tkp%3ABFBMxreG3ZBh

Off the top of my head, I seem to remember not seeing anything, but the needles are kept with the stripped down carbs. Will be a while until I get a chance to look, now in France for work....

Thanks Captain Obvious, always good to have others input. With regards fuel bowl volumes, I have only looked at the flat tops HMB46W, so I bow to your knowledge with this comparing to the HJG46's. Though my understanding is fuel vapour /insufficient fuel was a problem (for the HMB46W's), so I was thinking if this was larger than it is, this would have more fuel in the tank so to speak, and maybe help a little with cooling, as there is more volume. But as I said, it was an idea that I never looked at fully to whether it was worth moving forward with. Having the fuel bowl below the base of the carb doesn't seem the best idea above a hot exhaust manifold. Nissan thought that moving from the HJG36's (the other flat tops) with the side fuel bowls like the HJG46's to the HMB46W was the way forward. Both pairs of HMB46W's had nozzle wear due to the needle rubbing that I stripped (one partially). If Nissan US had this mentioned in the 1974 (?) published modification booklet, I presume it was already noticed on the cars that were in for remedial work with only a low number of years under their belt...?

Here is a prime example of something different that comes up on Yahoo that some would like on their Nissan, that is likely not to have been sold outside of Japan?; https://www.jauce.com/auction/p1068525429

Thanks Alan, So, slightly off topic, but connected, the "flat top carb" HJG38W in your JDM scan also has the suffix, -3A in the top, with -8 and -9 (A/T), which would help support the theory of slight changes due to models/engines, where the HJG36W I have is -11. Certainly confirms different needles in the JDM Fairlady 2.4L and the European L26 (which would be the case). I take it the top box is the earlier model, the 48 year (in kanji) is later models? So, a needle change from N-54 to N-66. Therefore do Nissan's needle series go by letter, M the N...?