Bambikiller240

Yeah, something isn't right. I remember that I had just barely enough slack in the chain to get the tensioner bolts started with the shoe fully compressed. Of course my block and head had not been milled at all. With as much gap at the tensioner as you have, you should also check the wipe pattern of the cam on the rocker arms per the Rebuild book to ensure that the cam is not running off the rocker pad. Let us know what Phred has to say and the outcome of your project. This is the kind of stuff that can help other members down the road with similar issues.

I'm no "engine guru" by any means, but I have assembled a few L24 engines. Which manual are you refering to? I ask because I assembled my engines by following the How to Rebuild Book, and the Factory Service Manual and don't remember that statement. (not that it couldn't be there, I just don't remember it) Have you counted the # of links between the timing marks on the gears? If everything is as it should be in terms of assembly, I think your next step is to have the head measured to see how much has been milled off of it, and same with the engine. You may have to shim the cam towers to compensate for the head milling. I do not know what you would do about the block milling, but if too much eas milled from the block you may have clearance issues with the valves and piston heads. Someone sells real thick metal headgaskets ($$$ Pricey) that may be needed to compensate for block milling. *most shops around here will stamp the head with the amount of milling done so the owner and next machine shop will know what has been done previously. BTW, our member "Phred" is an "Engine Guru", you may want to talk with him.

Somewhere on the package or the tap itself it should tell you the size drill bit you will need to use to drill out the hole the bolt was previously stuck in. Then you use the tap to thread the now larger hole. Then you use the red handled tool to install the heli-coil (new threads) which should restore the hole to the proper original bolt size. ***To use the tap, you'll need a "Tap" handle (or wrench) not sure what it is properly called. Be careful to drill perfectly straight down and to use the tap straight up and down also. EDIT: Oh yeah, Like MikeW says below, you need to use lots of oil while cutting threads, and you back out the tap every 2 or 3 turns to clear the metal flakes out of the tap and hole.

240Z's came with STEEL wheels and hubcaps from the factory. We will need pictures of what wheels you have in order to tell you anything.

T5 is the Borg-Warner transmission.

Why not just get the engine started, THEN worry about those air injection tubes. Until you get the engine started you don't know if there is a problem unless you can see obvious holes in one or more of the tubes.

Drill upward all the way through the top of the frame rail and use longer bolts, flat, (and lock) washers and a nut on each. People do this all the time when using larger diameter swaybars to get a stronger mount. Just be careful that you don't drill into anything else that may be mounted to the top of the frame rail.

I have no idea why the disclaimer is there, but I had them on a 240Z for 5 years before I sold it. They were great. Quickened the steering quite a bit.

OK, I do see that these don't have the "Square mouth" that would be expected on "Flat Tops", but those float bowls don't look much like the ones on my Round Top SU's (though detail is poor in the pic). Would Flat-Top Suction chambers even fit on a earlier carb? It's been so long ago that I tossed the only Flat Tops I ever owned, but I thought that they were of much larger diameter than those on Round Tops. I need to look in my 73 FSM for a better pic or diagram of the carbs. Won't be until Weds that I can get to my shop.

Riveted, still there. None came from the factory.

They look like flat-tops to me. What do you think they are? Don't play games, speak up.

You'll need to check the Amp rating of the fuel pump that you are using to know if the switch is rated good enough. Usually this info is printed on a label on the pump. If it isn't there or is the stock pump, check the size of the fuse that serves the pump.

Well, the name doesn't "exactly" describe the process, but basically what you do is drill a hole through the center of the broken bolt (as large as possible without buggering the threads of the housing, then insert the EZ OUT "Screw Extracter" which has flutes that are reversed from the direction of the threads, and you carefully try to back out what is left of the bolt using lots of penetrating oil and care. Link to a Craftsman Tool Page Picture of an E Z Out (Screw Extracter) below

Ugh! Sounds like you are trying all the right things. Didn't see you mention trying an E-Z-Out, though. You are right to be concerned about the actual T-Housing to Head bolts. If the Cover bolt sheared, then the Housing to Head bolts are likely in similar shape.

The last radiator I bought over the internet (Radiator.com) had top and bottom tanks that were made of metal that was WAY thinner the original radiator tanks, and the fins per inch of the core were way less. The overall appearance of the radiator made me feel that it was far inferior to what I could get for approximately the same money locally from people that I know, and know where to find IF I need them. Go ahead and chime in, Will. But we want only the finest of stones!

Local Warranty Better Quality / Workmanship Quicker Service [/list=1] These are a few of my favorite things.

"KRUSTY ! !"

Push in slightly and turn.

It was available as a dealer option in 1973 (I bought one) so it's possible that it was available in 72 as well.

Yup, Support your local Radiator shop!

I DO Nissan sold every 240Z they could possibly build and ship to the USA. They would have sold a lot more Z's if they could have built and delivered them. According to Zhome.com there were 148,615 Z's produced from 1969 thru 1973 for the USA / North American market. From 1979 thru 1983 there were 331,737 280Z(X's) produced for the same marketplace. 1979 had the highest production, and Nissan never built that many ZX's in a year ever again for North America.

Broken (cut or damaged) wire.

I have no idea what those threaded holes are for. It does look like the rod tha your vent knobs mount onto, is corroded somewhat. Maybe some Kroil, or Penephrite would help the operation of the vent control.