Bambikiller240

Yup! Somebody had WAY too much time on their hands.

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It should be.............unless a rat has built a huge nest in the duct.....or O.E.

Those should have been EASY to figure out. Operate knob while driving car...........note function.

Replace the hoses. With hose rated for "High pressure Fuel Injection Systems".

Why do you want to mess around with the fuel line if the fuel filter was the problem?

FIRST CHOICE Nissan OEM Ball Joints - www.midwestz.com SECOND CHOICE Moog Ball Joints - anyplace that sells Moog parts.

This is the version that I have (attached). I'll have to look it over again. I am sure that it will be cheaper than a FSM. I do recall that the Clymers DID have a few illustrations that I found useful.

Seems the seller is a little confused as to what he did/had done to the car. He can't have it both ways. "The inside is black in color and has new carpeting and door panels. Seats, carpeting, headliner and door panels have been re-upholstered by professionals. " As for the sunroof, it depends on the specific sunroof that was used. Headroom suffers on many of them to varying degrees.

The only thing I am aware of is that the shape of the heater control panel is supposed to be *slightly* different from previous control panels. I been told that the 73 heater control panel will still fit in a 72 dash, but I haven't observed it myself. You may want to ask EScanlon, as I beleive that he is familiar with this issue.

73 dash contained a heater control panel that had lighted features, so that you could see the heater controls at night in order to more accurately adjust them. My 72 has a small light in the cigarette lighter receptical ( I guess so that you can see where to plug it back into the dash at night) I'm not sure if the 73 dash has that, but I would suspect that it would.

I believe that "abas" is refering to the speakers installed in the "new interior door panels" that the auction mentioned. Just wondering why anyone would buy new door panels then butcher them like that. :stupid: :stupid:

OUCH! :tapemouth Well, I hope you get back to normal soon. I've never had the experience before, but I can imagine that it's zero fun.

Another innovative idea from King Will of Kidneystone. How are you feeling? better I hope.

see attachment

Wow, I am surprised. I have one of these, but haven't looked at it in 20+ years. Back when I had my first two 240Z's, I almost never used it because *for me* I found much more of what I was looking for in the FSM and Haynes manual. I either gave away or lost my Chiltons manual. (no great loss!) Maybe if this one fetchs a good price I'll put mine up on eBay too.

me too!

Thanks for pointing that out, Stephen. Somehow, I missed that post in trying to catch up on the thread after work yesterday.

I didn't base my opinion on it being a 2+2 either. For me it's purely about economics. Time and Money that would be necessary to turn this matchstick back into the Giant Sequoia that it once was.

Ben; It's not "mean" to judge according to the rules. Anything less would be "mean" and unfair to the owners with "correct" cars as defined by the rules (even if the rules are screwed up). But I know what you are saying about not liking to dock points, I couldn't do that job, I'm not competitive by nature. Opinionated yes, competitive no.

You can adjust the cam gear to advance cam timing relative to crank timing, but AFAIK, the only thing that takes up "stretch" is the tensioner. The tensioner is much more likey to fail than the chain is to stretch to the point of causing valves to kiss pistons. Now if the chain breaks............................

EDIT: Disregard post, I missed reading MikeW's post describing the failure circumstances.

Generally, you do not replace the flywheel. It should ALWAYS be re-surfaced (taken to a machine shop and have them mill the surface 100% FLAT) $600 sounds like a lot for replacement of a stock clutch in my area. Greater San Franciso Bay area.

It wasn't my engine, but.......... From the looks of the VERY deep grooves in the tensioner "shoe", I'd say it's likely that the tensioner quit "tensioning".

I replaced mine at 155,000 miles. It was still working well, and not overly stretched, but I was replacing parts as preventative maintainance and it just made sense to me to replace the tensioner, gears and chain at the same time. Relatively minimal cost considering the damage that could be done if one of these items fails. Peace of Mind!