ChrisA

Hey fish...welcome to the group! Chris

My 72 is the same combo(brown/tan). Aside from the previous owner completely neglecting the car for years, it isnt a bad combo. The interior doesnt seem to get quite as hot as the all black interior does. I think a blue Z with the tan interior would be okay. But Michael thinks like I do. Green with tan is nice! Chris

Z cars need close to zero offset so you'd need 40mm thick spacers to mount those wheels. You could try the 30 if you have one. Try it on the front first as you'll want to account for the complete movement of the wheel (up/down/left/right) I have 40's on my Konig wheels. There is about an inch clearance at the lower spring seat. Much luck, Chris

Hi Steve, You can transplant a L28 turbo into a 240Z and with the right amount of money you can get well over 300 horsepower. I'm a believer of Nissan Power in a Nissan BUT there are those out there that swap all kinds of motors into the Z. Supra 6, Ford V8, Chevy V8, Buick V6 turbo. The Nissan RB series swaps really interest me but I dont have that kind of scratch. I'd love to have an RB26DETT in one of my Z's. And the four wheel drive setup as well. The ebay linked car looks pretty good. Good Z hunting mate. Chris

Hey Robert, I'm not up on the Optima but your dealer should match up a battery that is close to the group "24" that fits the Z car. If I recall from the Optima web site, you will have to change the hold down arrangement. Looked custom from what I could see. From the Optima website....http://192.132.24.107/UsingOptima/height_WCM.asp "OPTIMA® GROUP 34/78 The optional red or yellow height adapters may be used for installations where a group 24 is required. Place the battery securely on top of the adapter until the clips snap into place." Hope that helps some, Chris

Beautiful Car!!! Love the Libras! Had a blue (then repainted black) 71 with the same front and rear spoilers and wheels as yours. Welcome to the group!! Chris

Tired of ALL the bashing. Can't we all just get along? PLEASE??!!??!! Lets bash a Yugo or Geo Metro not each other OKAY!!!!! Chris

Hi Kevin, Thanks for the reply to this thread. Its nice to see suppliers get involved in a discussion. I for one would consider trying your product on my L28. Three percent sounds pretty good for fifty bucks. When I'm ready to take my pan down, I'll send you my info and some cash. I see you take Paypal, that works for me. Sincerely, Chris Abbott

Postal Service avoids Cleveland????? Confused

Ummm...unless he's converted to SU's I would think he's got fuel injection. Not nit-picking or anything. Just dont want to confuse him with terminology he doesnt know about. :laugh: Chris

I agree with everything Ed said. If you insist on pressing the bushings out be very careful. I took my front control arms into my shop. Got some tubing with the proper dimensions to support the sleeve that the inner bushing is pressed into. With that sleeve supported securely I then used a proper sized drift to press the bushing out with my 50 ton press. Let me tell you, those old bushings put up a fight coming out!! I havent heard that kind of squealing since I saw two cats fighting once. One bushing was really stuck good till about 3/4 of the way out, then it came out surprisingly easy. I have used the old hack saw method before, but if you support the work and dont rush the job a press comes in really handy. FWIW, Chris P.S.-- Answer to original question, my shop gets $67.00 per hour labor. I would say if you took all the parts into a shop, they out to press the old stuff out in less than two hours.

Hey TexasZ, from what I've read, a good crank scraper can free up some extra horsepower. If its a good design and can be mounted really close to the crank throws it'd be a good idea. I'm always concerned about drilling mounting holes in the main cap webs to hold it on though. Cracks can develop if the machining process isnt done right. Although it looks like your linked product is held on by the main cap bolts which seems to be a good idea. I wonder if any member has put one on their L24/26/28? I'd have to have some hard numbers and reliability tests before I spent the money. My .02 Chris

My 73 has the original interior including carpets and mats. I've never seen those clips before even in all my salvage yard expeditions. Seems like an interesting item though. I will look in all my service manuals, maybe they show them. Maybe 26th-Z can chime in on this or Carl Beck? Chris

Zama Operations Center Address: 10-1, Hironodai 2-chome, Zama-shi, Kanagawa 228-8502 Hope that helps you. Chris

Is this the same "Zama" that is a city located in Kanagawa, Japan? I assume its close to Nissan's Zama Operation Center which is the closed plant's new name. Take lots of pictures if you get in!! Chris

Only if the tracks are equipped with Centralized Traffic Control (CTC) and not just an industrial spur or rarely used short line. My father is a signal maintainer for BNSF and I've learned a lot about railroads in my time. FWIW, Chris

That was me. :laugh: Chris

4 cylinder Z car....whoo hook me up.....NOT. I dont get your crackhead reference. Unless its the 4 cylinder engine description. Chris P.S. Spent all that money on paint job and engine bay looks like dog crapped in there.

Cheap torch is one of those plumbers torches at any hardware store. Small bottle of propane and the torch head to fit it. Should be less than $50 easily. Use mine whenever heat is required. Some kits offer different tips for different jobs. My torch head has auto ignite so you're not fumbling for a striker. FWIW, Chris

Couple of blocks of wood to support the rotor and use Ed's B.F.H. and knock that hub outta there. Use some antiseize of the mating surfaces when you put them back together and next time (if there is one) they'll come apart real easy. Much luck, Chris

Carl working on his wipers today reminded me of a "suitable part from other makes" part on my car. Western Star truck wiper washer pump. #62912-3401. Fits the stock resevoir and requires minor electrical mods. For those of you that arent concerned with originality this part has worked well for me. Chris

Thanks Carl, I'm doing the work at my shop as I have all the big tools here. Love to have that mill in my home garage. Scared to put 6,000 pounds on my garage floor. Might end up in China. I have to say to all those who might consider making this tool for themselves that the parts arent really expensive. I got the the thrust bearings from www.mscdirect.com and the rest from the local machine shop. The thread taps have turned out to be the most expensive. I had metric taps on hand but had to buy the 1/2-13NC taps. After mushrooming the pins on my 71 I decided I had to have this tool. Someday when I get my 2 other Z's out of storage then I'll be ready. I plan on giving the tool its first workout on my daily driver 72. The 73 already has poly everywhere. Chris

Gary (beandip) sent me the specs for this tool. I am building one for myself and one for sale or loan. I am currently tapping the neccesary threads in the barstock that attaches to the pull rod and the end of the spindle pin. I will attach some pics of my progress so far. Thanks again to Gary. Chris

I figured if I got it, then every one else did too. Chris

I got my copy at Barnes & Noble if anybody is looking. Chris