SteveJ

I guess you'll find out how much is true and how much is stuff I made up. 😁

First, the condenser should be on the positive side of the coil. Do you still have the ballast resistor in the circuit, or have you jumpered that out? Next, measure the resistance from the negative post of the coil to the tachometer connector blue wire. It should be around 2.2k Ohms or so. Also, is the TIU disconnected? Is the blue wire at the TIU interface taped off so it cannot come into contact with anything?

I pulled that from @Terrapin Z's post. 28590-P7500 is not a valid part number, either.

I couldn't get 22590-P7900 to pull up as a valid part number at any of the regular sites that I use to find parts or validate part numbers. (I was not using Nissan FAST.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284463031696 http://zparts.com/?product_make=1980

That could do it. Depending upon how they modified the wiring, it could be a challenge to keep it working if you unplugged a few connections and are trying to reconnect everything.

Have you read through this? https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

NOW I can talk about riding in the new Nissan Z. During the Mitty, I reached out to Rick Goolsby from HSR to see if I could get a ride in the Nissan Z pace car for parade laps. He said that Sunday was available, but I had to be in the gathering area at 10:45. I think I was there at least 15 minutes early. Jason, the driver, showed up with the pace car, and several of us looked around the car. The Nissan Z looks great in blue, and I have a feeling it will be a popular color. The car was a nine-speed automatic Performance model. A big motivation for me to get a ride was to see how tolerable the car might be for a daily driver. Even with my less than svelte figure and knees that barely function, I didn't have much of any issue getting into and out of the car. Since we were doing parade laps and not pacing the start of one of the races, the speed was probably slower, but we did five laps around Road Atlanta. What I really appreciated was how quiet the car is. My current daily driver is a 2012 Mustang V6 Premium. The interior sound level to me was closer to a Camry than the Mustang. If you are wanting to hear a rip-roaring exhaust note, you might be disappointed. I have a 260Z with a loud exhaust note when I want to experience that. If you're looking for a sporty, quiet daily driver that you can rip around the track or mountain roads, I think this will fit the bill. I enjoyed going through the Esses at Road Atlanta, and Jason was driving in a spirited enough manner that the gimbal on my camera was frequently trying to adapt to the G loads. We topped out at freeway speeds on the back stretch of the track. The ride was good, and I could see taking the new Z on a long drive without feeling like I was turned into a pretzel by the end. It wasn't going to take a lot to convince me that I really wanted the new Z. I think the styling is a significant improvement over the 370Z. The ergonomics of the car felt good when I sat behind the wheel of the manual transmission version. The only things that could keep me from buying one in the next couple of years would be ridiculous dealer markups or quality issues with the car. I still need to edit the video I took inside the car. I just have to make the time to do the editing.

My other thought is "Do we have to start another GoFundMe for their bail?"

Oh dear, they made the news again?

And @Randalla's version works well, too.

The hazard switch can affect the turn signals, but it's less likely in this case since the hazards work. Just double check that the connectors are plugged in firmly on the hazard switch. As for wire colors, use them to find the wires on the dash harness/engine harness/body harness. Connectors should only be able to connect one way, so if a supplier did not follow the right convention, the wire should still go to the right spot. The BE section of the FSM has good (but not great) documentation of what wire goes to what pin on the connectors.

Hopefully you'll figure out what went wrong with the install. I won't be near B'ham until ZCON, and I would only have a scaled down toolkit with me. As for #1, whenever I encounter a new problem with my cars, I usually start with looking at the last thing I f'd with.

I'm not sure who drove the rubber bumper wonder. It might not have been a club member. One of our members sometimes shows up in an old Beetle, but that car was inherited. As for the multi-colored S130, that car is for mosquito control. Once he fires it up, the smoke kills those little buggers for at least 3 counties.

Suggestions Remove the relay kit and see if normal function is restored. Remove the headlight switch and check resistance across the terminals for the parking lights with the switch in off. Be more specific about the tail light relay kit. Do you mean the parking light relay kit that Motorsport Auto sells? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4652 If it is the parking light relay kit, something isn't landed right. Drive 3 hours to my place for me to fix it. Standard rates apply.

I took the car out to the Georgia Z Club meeting tonight. With the warm, dry weather, there was a good showing.

14.5 is right on the money.

I suspected as much about the flasher and hazard switch. You saved yourself a lot of grief by reading my instructions carefully and re-checking. It can be a royal PITA messing with the hazard switch. You may want to consider ordering a lead set like this for your meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779V9H4F Another way to check the voltage with the engine running is to get one of these and plug it into your cigarette lighter: https://www.amazon.com/aceyoon-Voltmeter-Cigarette-Protection-Compatible/dp/B07QZS36F2. While it might not seem like a great tool, a similar product let me know the charging system on my 260Z was on its last legs.

That voltage is low. What is the voltage at the battery with the car running? Do you have someone who can work the gas so you can measure the voltage at 2500 RPM?

If your measurements are correct (Sorry, I have helped too many people, including engineers, who can't get proper measurements with a meter, so there is always a measure of doubt when I don't see it executed.), then you need to remove the hazard switch. I advise that before you do the process below, you pull and push on the hazard switch knob a few times and remeasure voltage at the turn signal flasher (with the key ON). To remove the switch Push and turn on the knob (counter clockwise) and pull the knob off. Be careful not to lose parts. (Been there, done that.) After you pull the knob off, you will need to unscrew the retaining ring. You may be able to use snap ring pliers to get at the holes in the ring. After you remove the retaining ring, you need reach behind the dash to disconnect the optical fiber. Then you have to look up new curse words to reach up further behind the dash and unplug the two connectors, probably with one hand (hence the need for the curse words). Pull the switch out from behind the dash. Go ahead and reassemble the switch after you remove it, so you don't lose parts. There are two connectors on the switch. One has 3 pins, and the other has 6 pins. I numbered them in this picture for easier reference. With the knob pushed in (Hazards off), pins 1 and 9 should have continuity. Also pins 7 and 8 should have continuity. If they don't, re-check that the shaft of the knob is fully pushed in. You may want to push and pull a few times to see if contacts are dirty. Z Car Source lists the 73 switches as available on a exchange basis for $85. Reinstalling the switch: Go back to your source for curse words. You will probably need to find some that will guarantee you a spot next to Satan after you pass. Reach up behind the dash with the switch in your hand and fish it through the hole in the dash. With the skill of a contortionist, reach up with your other hand and start threading the retaining ring. Fumble around blindly to find the 3 pin and 6 pin connectors on the dash harness. Utilizing all of the curse words you looked up in step 1, try to reconnect the connectors blindly with one hand. Having secured your alliance with the Prince of Darkness, attempt to reconnect the optical fiber so the switch will light up at night. (See the reference photo below of the lighter and hazard switch with the light source. Finish securing the retaining ring. Put the knob back in reverse order of removal. Test. Good luck.

When activated, the hazard switch will block the voltage sources for the turn signals and brake lights. However, if the turn signals come on at all, then that is not the problem. Check for 12VDC to ground at the turn signal flasher (driver side) when the key is on. If you have voltage on either side, you can rule out the hazard switch as being a problem.

Which end? If it's the end away from the panel, it's likely the water ****. See if you can take a picture. https://www.totalzparts.com/product/datsun-260z-280z-heater-water-****-control-valve-1974-081975-nos-oem/ https://zcarsource.com/rebuilt-vacuum-heater-****-for-heater-control-valve-for-the-1974-78-starting-in-august-of-1973-datsun-260z-and-280z/ (AC version)

It could be the watercock at the heater core. I sprayed mine down with silicone lubricant while I worked the slider back and forth. It moves smoothly now.

When tracing wiring go by the colors in the wiring harness. That is what the wiring diagram is based upon. The fact that the switch switched the colors doesn't really matter much as long as you keep the wiring harness colors straight. I don't have the spare time/energy to drive up to Chattanooga, but if you want to drive a couple of hours down to me, I will give you hands on training in using a meter to diagnose using my 73. The connectors are different, but the wire colors of the affected circuit is the same as your 72. Once you get the technique down, it should be easier to find the short.

What is the voltage at the battery when the car is idling? Like I said, the old mechanical flashers can be picky about voltage. I forgot to address the horns. When I was waking up my 73 after its long slumber, I tried the horn. Nothing. I took a dremel with a wire brush and scrubbed the contacts on the engine harness and the horns. (I also hooked up the horn that was disconnected.) Both horns worked with clean contacts. Other possibilities Horn relay The horn button isn't pushing the horn contact on the turn signal switch against the steering column. Fuse