SteveJ

They do have touring laps at the Mitty...

To piggy back on what Wade was saying, test the output of the charging system by seeing how many volts it is producing. (Did you do that and find you have 12 VDC at the battery with the car running?) The 70-77 S30s had an external voltage regulator. The alternator for these cars was rated at 50 Amps. The 78 was the first with an internally regulated alternator rated at 60 Amps. If you do have an external regulator with the internally regulated alternator, you will have issues. You have left out a critical piece of information for us to help you. What year is your car? That will dictate what you need to try.

I have a picture of Tom's car in the pits here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980021195&l=69826b8ef5 Here is the blue Z: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980821215&l=b4a81483c8 Turn 10 is not a good place to find out your brakes are going. Are you planning on being at the 2013 Mitty?

I'm not sure that Dave's setup would work in a 240K.

Merry Christmas, Phil. Now get that Z inside a garage, PRONTO!

Was the resistor warm to the touch? What color wires are connected to the resistor? There are only three reasons I can think of for the resistor to smoke. 1. It's a bad resistor. 2. It was wired wrong. 3. There is too much voltage going to it. You might want to check the voltage at the battery when you have the car running.

I added another blog post that I hope will help others to understand how relays work and how they should be wired into the car. Relays Simplified

Actually, that is on most dash covers, too.

Of course, Phil. I put one into the 260Z. I think I needed to use a more powerful LED than I put in, though.

Phil, I'm very pleased with the LED bulb I installed in the dome light.

Here's what you should do: 1. Read through the EF section of the FSM. 2. Go through the troubleshooting guides. 3. Take notes through 1 & 2. 4. If you don't figure out why your pump has no power, tell us what you did and what you saw so we can help you.

Of course, I would be more than happy to do so.

I believe the wires by the ignition switch are for the key-in-the-ignition buzzer when you open your door. The pictures did help a lot here. the two white wires are identified in the FSM wiring diagram as Control Unit Checking Unit. In other words, you don't connect them to anything. They are for testing.

Thank you. I have been searching online about how to build a tachometer. I even have an old one to play with. By the way, would you mind if I host your write-up on my blog, too?

I had no problem with the LED bulb I got from Superbrightleds once I turned the bulb around for proper polarity. Of course, I installed new door switches at the same time and cleaned the contact area for the switches to ensure good contact with the body.

It depends upon your definition of acceptable. There is this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread23919.html. If you have a 240Z, there is someone selling a new skin made from a mold of a good dash with a BIN price of around $780. I cannot vouch for quality or fitment, though.

There are times where a picture is worth a thousand words. This is one of those times. Are there stripes on the wires? Have you looked at the wiring diagram or EE or BE sections of FSM to see if you can find them? What connectors do the wires have?

Polarity? Try turning the bulb around.

Good to know. I guess I'll stay with my inexpensive compressor for now.

I've eyed this one in the past: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-air-hydraulic-strut-spring-compressor-65549.html. I like that you stand to the side of the spring to operate it. It appears to come with different size brackets, too. I got hit one time when a spring popped out of a compressor. I was lucky. It hit me in the head where it couldn't do any damage.

With the battery sitting for 6 months, you should use a voltmeter (not your gauge) and measure the voltage at the battery while trying to start the car. It may not have enough energy to turn the starter or engage the solenoid. The wires to which Carl refers connect to the back of the ignition switch. Since you hear a relay clicking, that implies you are probably energizing the accessory relay. That makes me think it might be a loose connector (C-5) between the engine harness and dash harness.

Be methodical in your diagnosis. First, make sure you have voltage on both sides of your fusible links. Check the voltage of the white/red wire coming into your ignition switch. Check the connections between the dash harness and the engine harness. Connector C-5 carries the voltage from the ignition switch to the solenoid.

You don't have enough detail for people to do anything but guess. Did you have the battery disconnected when you did all of this? If not, you could have shorted something out. Have you used a voltmeter to check anything? Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram from the FSM to figure out where you have voltage? What systems are working? Accessories? Lights?

Hmm, interesting find, Pete. I wonder if they actually have them in stock. Do the different SUs have different diameter float bowls? Do you need the needle, too? Which needle? I have to admit that I'm a novice with the SUs. Bruce, I hope to eventually watch the videos I bought from you.

Thank you. The link should be good now.