SteveJ

The rule of thumb that I have read is that you should use fusible link wire that is two sizes smaller than the wire you are protecting. For instance, if it is 10 AWG primary, you should use 14 AWG fusible link wire. Using the wrong gauge wire would be like putting in a bigger fuse because the smaller fuse kept blowing. You can find the size of the fusible link wires in the FSM.

Are you trying to find a new one? I doubt they exist, but just for fun, here are the Nissan part numbers with build dates: ASSY-PANEL REAR [table=width: 500] [tr] [td]Part Number[/td] [td]Start[/td] [td]-[/td] [td]End[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]79100-N3650[/td] [td][/td] [td]-[/td] [td]7408[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]79100-N4250[/td] [td]7409[/td] [td]-[/td] [td]7607[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]79100-N4750[/td] [td]7608[/td] [td]-[/td] [td]7704[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]79100-N4751[/td] [td]7705[/td] [td]-[/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [/table] Of course, you might get lucky...http://www.courtesyparts.com/panel-rear-p-425589.html

Jeremy, if you're having electrical issues, I think I know someone not too far away who knows something about Z car electrical systems...

Consider what you are doing with EtOH. You are adding extra oxygen into the combustion process. If you're high on CO, that might help. If you're high on NOx, it won't. If you're high on HC, I would think it would increase your CO.

Denatured alcohol is 100% ethanol, just with trace amounts of chemicals to render it non-potable. It is available at hardware stores. You could also get pure grain alcohol from the liquor store, but that's pretty expensive to run.

That's about 22% ethanol. Have you run a pre-test to see what your actual emissions are? The real fix may not be that difficult and probably won't put your fuel system at risk.

A bad voltage regulator can cause this to happen, as well.

I'll beg to differ with you on point #2, Phil. Most fuses in a car are are there to protect wiring. Most circuits in our cars have several components wired in parallel. A great example of this is found with our running lights. There is a 20 A fuse for the circuit. It is designed to protect the wiring. Fusing for a component actually only exists to protect against an overvoltage condition, and it is usually downstream of a fuse for the wiring. Why do I say this? A component will have an impedance or an impedance range. Unless the component has failed, it will maintain at least the minimum impedance. Since current is voltage divided by resistance (impedance), the only way for the current to go up is for the voltage to increase. If the designer isn't suffering from cranial/anal insertion syndrome, the component is designed to handle up to about 15VDC. If you have a voltage regulator go bad, the voltage may spike. To protect the component, it has a fuse rated for the current that the component would see at a lower voltage, say 12 to 14 volts.

Bruce, how about starting a notification list on when they are available? I'd like to know.

Come on, Guy. Post pictures.

The drive up north towards Point Arena is very nice, too. About 20 years ago I went from Fairfield, through Petaluma, up to Point Arena, and then down to the Muir Woods.

Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars

IMHO, stay with 918.

Think of the battery as a water tower. The water pressure is a function of the height of the water in the tower (This translates to your voltage or potential.). As water flows out of the tower, you have to pump more water into the tower (This is your alternator.). If the pipes are too small from the pump (wiring) or if the pump is undersized, you will have problems. The argument of whether the alternator or battery is supplying the power is not really relevant. What matters is sizing the components (battery, alternator, wiring, switches, and fuses) for the demands of the system.

Not as long as you have an alternator that will keep up.

Matt, Try to get Tim McGovern or Matt Isabel to look at it. They could probably give you a good first-hand assessment.

It's not that difficult. They easily mount to the opposite side. You don't notice it until you find the bleed screw at the bottom of the caliper.

On my 260Z two of the four driveshaft bolts were missing. The third bolt was missing the nut, and the fourth bolt had a loose nut. The previous owner couldn't get it to start. I found it had a bad distributor cap.

Several people have opted for Vintage Air in their Z cars. https://www.google.com/search?q=%22vintage+air%22+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&oq=%22vintage+air%22+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.9412j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8 It will work nicely if you want to put in the effort.

Your basic options are to pull an aftermarket system out of an old Z or go with Vintage Air. Drop in? No. Invisible? No. Expect a generic aftermarket system to eat up a lot of the passenger footwell. You can craft a Vintage Air system that will take up less space. It will cost more, though.

KYB rear strut part number: 361003 KYB front strut part number: 361002 The part numbers listed in the eBay ad are correct. Did you receive two of each part number? Are you putting the 361002s in front?

I posted links to more pictures in the "What did you do" thread. I'll be posting GIFs & videos later.

I guess I'll have to go to the track day this year since it's over near where I live.

I went out to Road Atlanta again for Day 2 of The Mitty: The Mitty 2014 ? Day 2 (208 Pictures) | Steve's CARtography I also felt that 2.5 coils cut from the Chevette springs was too much. I had another set available, so I only cut one coil. I still need to bleed the brakes, so I don't know how it's sitting, yet.

I took the 260Z to Road Atlanta today to enjoy the Mitty (The Mitty 2014 ? Day 1 (278 pictures) | Steve's CARtography). I also changed the front brake hydraulic hoses because the brakes were pulling to the right. I thought the driver side hose may have been stretched when the caliper fell from its perch while I was working on it. The pulling was gone when I did the test drive.