SteveJ

Did you replace the alternator at the same time?

Put in a thermostat. The cooling system is designed to have that restriction in there.

Why do you want underdrive pulleys?

PM sent.

I know a guy in Lawrenceville who could weld it for you. He's a Z guy, too.

And I found this, too...Cable Ties & Accessories | Parts | Panduit

I got close...McMaster-Carr Look at the panel mounted ties.

Here's a picture of a speedometer I used to test the new LEDs and bulb sockets I described in my earlier post. I know I'll be able to see that better at night.

They certainly look handy to hold the metal in place for welding.

You could always use the Internet Wayback Machine to see if the site is archived. I've brought some old links back to life that way.

I've been doing some experimenting lately. I bought some wedge bases for the instrument lights (10 Pcs Heavy Duty T10 168 194 2825 Wiring Harness Sockets Pre Wired | eBay) and some low-profile wedge bulbs (green - Amazon.com: Jtech 10x T10 8-SMD Green LED Car Lights Bulb W5W, 147, 152, 158, 159, 161, 168, 184, 192, 193, 194 2825: Automotive red - Amazon.com: Jtech 5x T10 8-SMD Red LED Car Lights Bulb W5W, 147, 152, 158, 159, 161, 168, 184, 192, 193, 194 2825: Automotive blue - Amazon.com: 8x T10 194 168 501 4-smd 3528 LED Car Light Bulb Blue: Automotive). The green bulbs have 8 SMD LEDs, and they all point forward, illuminating my test gauge fairly well. The low profile bulbs make it where I don't have to remove the lenses from gauges, too. I am looking forward to doing the conversion.

The Georgia Z Club surrendered to the masses and is using Facebook. The old website re-directs to the Facebook page. I believe we actually attract more traffic that way. Oh, and if you're worried about FB privacy, can't you just use fake info?

Does it really matter?

Heck, I'll help. I can probably recruit some other guys to assist, as well. Stripping party! Wait, that sounds weird.

I'm also interested in the license plate light.

By the way, while the address says Gainesville, I live in NE Forsyth County.

Okay, not too far away. I would just have to have a plan to stash the 240, or see if he would part with the hood.

Okay, where in Cumming?

If necessary... Datsun 510 120Y B210 240Z Side Marker Lamp Red Amber | eBay

If it keeps blowing, then we'll go into full diagnostic mode by pulling connectors to isolate the part of the circuit giving you problems. You wouldn't happen to own a multimeter and know how to use it by any chance?

Check the light sockets for corrosion. The side markers can get corroded as the gasket gets old and leaks. You might also consider moving to LED lights. They draw less power.

I don't have time to track down the origin of the green wire, but it goes all over the place, including to the turn signals. The battery signal isn't designed to go through a switched circuit. Go to How Stuff Works and search on alternator. I was going off of memory for the ignition signal. It is the white/black wire that is the ignition signal to the alternator. It should be connected to the wire at pin 1.

The black/white wire signals the alternator that the ignition is on. It will get that signal from the wire at position 1. The yellow wire is the battery sensing wire to the alternator. It is connected to the white wire because that is coming off of the fusible link.

If the connections aren't solid, the wire gauge is not relevant. A bad connection will act like a resistor and drop the voltage to your ignition.

I couldn't tell you without a spec sheet. I don't know how much they draw.